SNP north: Mt Marshall/Bluff/AT

After a lengthy break from hiking, it was time to get back out there and work the legs. After two months down due to a combination of weather and ailments, the motivation factor was fading. No summer of fall hiking trip this year, but a winter one, yes!, to Big Bend National Park in far south Texas in December, so time to start preparing for that. Saturday was shaping up to be a fine day. Early forecasts called for crisp and sunny. As Saturday rolled around, it had evolved into damp and cool, but certainly not a wash out.
At 13.5 miles, this would be a relatively short hike. It would also be a late start, hitting the road at 8am and on the trail soon after 10am. This is the new me. The hike would be a classic circuit, Mount Marshall, Bluff, and Appalachian trails, starting from Jenkins Gap on Skyline Drive in the North District. Cool air and light rain on the drive in from Front Royal made for dramatic low clouds, so fellow hiker Steve and I stopped at a couple overlooks along the way.
48 degrees with light rain to start the hike. Still summer by the calendar, but I had layers and thin gloves to start. I can't recall the last time we hiked this circuit clockwise... instead of having the sizable climb out of Jenkins Gap to North Marshall, the uphill would be mostly on the Bluff Trail and South Marshall, with the relatively flat Mount Marshall Trail to start. First up were two hikers at the Mount Marshall trailhead on Skyline Drive asking where the AT was. I pointed them towards Jenkins Gap. We'd see them later at Gravel Springs Hut, as they were searching for the Bluff Trail.
The light rain ended a couple miles in on the Mount Marshall Trail. It was very peaceful hiking in light rain, especially knowing it would likely soon end. The high moisture brought out the scent of the forest. Streams were lower than expected; I suppose the heaviest rains of late had been more to the east, and it had been dry for a week or so. It was quiet on the trails, with no sign of wildlife and only a few hikers. The Mount Marshall trek was uneventful, and we were soon climbing the south slope of North Marshall on the Bluff Trail, en route to Gravel Springs Gap. The stream to Big Devils Stairs was not much more than a trickle. Slippery wet rocks did keep our attention. Our first rest break was at Gravel Springs Hut.
A PATC trail crew working on the spur trail to the AT was having a lunch break when we arrived, but were back to work soon after (that trail looks good!). I asked about damage from the recent storms. A "here and there" response. Our trail had been clear to here, but later on the AT there were a few minor obstacles. We had our lunch and read through the hut journal. The most recent entries were from southbounders.
Up to the AT, then across the Drive for the pleasant climb of South Marshall. We usually pass on the South Marshall views (after having just been on North Marshall), but traveling this direction we stopped to take in the views from South Marshall (which are quite nice, actually). There were still plenty of low clouds under a mid-level overcast, creating rather dramatic views south and west. Although a somewhat gloomy day, there was plenty of color along the trail, yellow (goldenrod and woodland sunflower) and purple (um?) flowers, red mountain ash berries, and that bright orange fungus. A hint of color in several water stressed trees showed a sign of things to come, but not sure how good the color will be this year.
My secret spot on North Marshall was heavily occupied, but I found solitude on the next outcrop down. After a short stay there, it was back on the AT to the primary view on North Marshall. From here, it was mostly downhill back to Jenkins Gap. Last year at this time there were ripe apples on and along the AT north of Jenkins Gap to the Drive crossing, but no trace of them this year.
So what has happened to me? While I did hike 18 miles a week after that doomed hike July 9th, my "good" knee has gotten steadily worse, patellofemoral pain syndrome and compartment syndrome. Currently having PT to strengthen hams and quads, but outlook is rather gloomy. With the hot humid conditions in August and a string of rainy weekends, I can't say I've missed hiking all that much. Now I've gone soft... but Big Bend is around the corner, and I need to pick myself up for that.

Pictures: https://photos.app.goo.gl/L4yVT1EHSFHvtE3h7

SNP south: Brown Mountain, Rockytop, Lewis Peak

There are several ingredients needed for a successful marathon-distance hike. The key ingredient is that you must want it, it can't be forced. Next is ability and conditioning, if you can do a 20 miler, then a marathon should be doable. These you control. Trail conditions are important, wet rocks make for slow going, wet vegetation makes for swamped footwear. Heat and humidity are big factors, which is why I prefer fall and winter for these long hikes. I've done all but one solo, too many stops and the risk of negative reinforcement can lead to failure. Too fast and you burn out, too slow and you give in to fatigue.

Spurred by my irrational desire to do at least one marathon hike each year to justify my "SNPmarathonhiker" self-appointed title, all factors pointed toward failure this past Saturday as my brother John and I set out to do a 26.5 mile hike in the south district of Shenandoah National Park. I had fretted most of Friday deciding whether of not to attempt this. No question it was a forced hike. I've done 20 milers this season, but I'm not at my 2007-2009 condition and am accumulating numerous ailments, age not helping. The forecast was not good- dew point mid 60's; mid 40's being ideal. The trail would be saturated from the previous evening's rain, the boots would be at risk of becoming swamped. Neither of us slept well. Most of these hikes revolve around the thrill of seeing first light and sunrise from the trail, meaning a pre-2am departure. Logistics and lack of enthusiasm on my part prevented that.

Using the same start point as last weekend, John and I were walking south on Skyline Drive from Twomile Run Overlook at 7:45am, headed to Brown Mountain Overlook to take Bown Mountain Trail to Big Run Portal and Rockytop. Along Rockytop we'd do an out and back to the park boundary on Lewis Peak Trail. Once on the AT, we'd cut through Loft Mountain Campground down to the wayside, regain the AT via Frazier Discovery Trail, and take the AT north to a minor bushwhack just south of Twomile Run Overlook, 26.5 miles with 6400 feet accumulated elevation gain. It did not work out quite as planned...

The vegetation was saturated as expected. The air was saturated as expected. The rocks were wet as expected. I used mini-gaiters and attached nylon pants legs. John wore full gaiters. We both wore GoreTex boots. The rain that stays on vegetation not reaching the soil is called interception loss, lost to groundwater by evaporation. Each time that vegetation was disturbed, it deposited its water onto the legs and boots. Repeat that several thousand times, and no reasonable manner of protection will keep the feet dry. Our boots were swamped before Big Run. We were otherwise fine, slowed somewhat by wet rocks. There were hazy views from Rocky Mountain and Brown Mountain, with low clouds below us in the Big Run drainage. A moist breeze stirred up a pleasant scent of damp pine. On the descent to Big Run, King & Queen Rocks were nearly hidden in the hazy glare.

Never leave Big Run for Rockytop without ample water (as in nearly three liters)- that's something we've learned over the years. Rockytop is hot and dry in the open sun. Water from Lewis Run at the bottom of Lewis Peak Trail was no guarantee. Big Run was flowing, but lower than hoped. I did my first of four boot drying attempts here. I poured water out of the boots, wrung out the socks, ran a towel inside the boots, and put the wet socks back on. It was too early to change into dry socks- the vegetation was still saturated, I anticipated it would remain wet until early afternoon. We sterilized a load of water from Big Run, then headed towards Rockytop out Big Run Portal. Wide Big Run Portal gave a brief respite from the soaking.

Seeing ripening blueberries on Rocky Mount the previous weekend, I knew there would be ripe blueberries on Rockytop- it's the trail for blueberry lovers. They're not ripe to the point that one can grab a handful and have them pop right off, more of a seek-and-pick level of ripeness. In a week or two it should be prime picking. There were occasional signs that bears have been eating the berries too. Rockytop is revegetating from the 2002 fire, with considerable dense mid-height low growth. Though the vegetation was drying (through evaporation, keeping the air saturated), there was still water working its way into the boots. Footing was still tricky on damp rocks. Massanutten across Shenandoah Valley was a vague outline in the thick haze. Although a cold front had pushed through, we were stuck beneath an inversion, leaving a shallow layer of saturated air at the surface and bone dry air above, with no mixing. Upon reaching the open scree slope offering superb views of Rockytop (the "real" Rockytop) and Lewis Peak, we took a break for views and boot drying.

The wet boots and slick rocks took its toll, and we were moving well under the ideal pace for a comfortable marathon hike; our pace to here pointed to a 15 hour hike, not good at all. Too slow and fatigue takes over. Surely with now nearly dry trail, we'd make up time on the Lewis Peak round trip, right? Wrong. A fast mile out to the summit spur, we'd save the summit for the return. The trail beyond the summit spur is seldom used, but in fine condition, offering occasional views south. A good portion of the trail is in full sun, and the trail is steep- over 1100 feet of elevation change spread uniformly over 1.4 miles. We crossed flowing Lewis Run, reached the boundary, then headed back, stopping to fetch water from the run. It was here I noticed my first warning sign- I was shaking slightly, almost shivering, though it was plenty warm. I felt well hydrated and was consuming sodium (beef jerky- little slabs of salt), but what about the other salts?

I did my standard power climb, or tried to at least. It felt the climb was in slow motion. My pace was good, but it didn't seem so. I had to stop four times to catch my breath. Was I having a "Leading Ridge" moment? I reached the summit spur trail a couple minutes ahead of John, having climbed the 1150 feet in 36 minutes. I felt somewhat ill (not unusual for long hikes), hot and cold, certainly woozy. What had I done? Was this heat exhaustion? Did John feel the same? Somewhat, not ill, but not well either. We knew then and there we had to get out, and this marathon was in jeopardy. The Lewis Peak summit a mere three tenths of a mile away and 200 feet up, but any interest in going there was gone. Getting to the AT and Skyline Drive was our focus now. We were at mile 13.5, furthest from the car, and nearly four miles from any possible relief if needed. We were not in such dire straits as to warrant dropping back down Lewis Peak to seek help outside the park, nor to call for help. We weren't that bad off, yet.

A slight recovery took place returning to Rockytop, enough so to think that perhaps the marathon was salvageable, and I even took a few more pictures, though they were my last (when I lose interest in snapping photos, that's a bad sign). Rockytop to Big Run Loop Trail was steady but tedious. Other than three backpackers that we'd seen when setting out on Lewis Peak, the trails were deserted. Though the boots were still wet, I changed into dry socks at the loop trail junction. John had his first leg cramps here. At a steady pace, we eventually reached the AT and headed north. We passed through Doyles River Overlook, where a guy was standing on top of his car, music blasting out the windows. Ah, car folk! At the Doyles River Trail junction we had a decision to make- stick to the AT, or bail and get to Loft Mountain Wayside via Skyline Drive. We bailed. The plan now was to take portions of Skyline Drive and the AT back to the car, making for a respectable 23 miler. We walked the 1.6 miles from Doyles River parking to Loft Mountain Wayside without any interest in going the tiny bit out of the way to take in views from Big Run Overlook. It seemed a long slow hot walk.

Blackberry shakes, fries, onion rings- at least we hadn't lost our appetite. However, it became clear during that extended break that at 20 miles, our hike was over, and needed to get back to the car, some three miles away. When a park ranger pulled into the wayside, I went out to request assistance. The ranger had been called to the wayside because someone had been feeding deer. Come on car people, you know better than that! The ranger was stern and direct but did not issue a citation. I caught his attention and told him of our situation, pointing to my saturated boots, and he kindly offered to take John to his car. The ranger asked about our hydration and hike preparation, and I assured him we were not noobies out on a whim (that's not how I phrased it). He asked about our route, and when I said "Lewis Peak to the boundary and back", he replied "that will do it". John left with the ranger, the hike now in "did not finish" status (my fourth DNF hike, as best I can recall).

We were probably DUI... not alcohol, but fatigue and possible heat exhaustion. John's leg cramps struck just minutes after departing the wayside, he somehow managing to pull into Bacon Hollow Overlook to try to walk them out. But there was no walking out these cramps, they were severe and prolonged, affecting multiple muscles in both legs. By Swift Run Overlook, it was evident he could not drive, and I had to take the wheel. Being not so well off myself, but not cramping, I drove the long 2.5 hour trip home, in constant fear that I'd cramp too. I stopped twice to get him orange juice and Gatorade, and soon after getting home the cramps subsided. I never imagined that cramps could persist that long! It was perhaps severe enough to warrant a 911 call, but then we'd have never gotten home. As I've known from my long hikes, there is little hope of maintaining a proper salt balance. Staying hydrated and consuming salts to the best ability is all one can do, and we thought we had. We're not new at this, but every once in a long while, things go wrong despite best efforts.

Are my marathon hike days done? My feet, knees, and body say "yes". There has to be the final one of everything, but I'm not willing to give in to that yet. I can only hope that some fine cool crisp autumn morning I'll find myself somewhere out there on the trail watching sunrise, engulfed in the rush that comes from doing such things. Meanwhile, for now I'm left pondering why this went wrong and how to avoid it.

Pictures

SNP south: Onemile Run & Rocky Mount

Cool! Two hikes in one. My brother John and I were kicking off the holiday weekend with a hike in the south district. Looking for something that would be new for him had me thinking of Rocky Mount, but a 10 miler wasn't enough to justify a drive that distance, so hey, as long as we're right there, throw in Onemile Run, and the combined distance approaches 18 miles. Both hikes would be from Twomile Run Overlook a bit south (Drive-wise) of Pinefield Gap. Longtime friends Rob and Ellen were also interested in hiking, and plans fell into place to link up with them there for the Rocky Mount hike (we had a failed link-up attempt last year).

First up was Onemile Run, the trailhead a short distance south on Skyline Drive from Twomile Run Overlook. On the trail at 8:15am, we were on a schedule, planning to meet Rob and Ellen around 11:30. This hike would be an out and back to the Park boundary then back to the Drive. I did this hike in 2008, leaving the Park and continuing to dry Twomile Run, a nine mile round trip. This would be a 7.7 mile round trip. The trail descends along wooded Twomile Ridge for about a mile, then descends more steeply to Onemile Run. It was obvious from the untrampled leaves that this is a seldom used trail. If you like stream crossings, this is your trail! I'm not a big fan of stream crossings, and would otherwise not be here unless water levels were low- there are twelve crossings (plus one side stream), each way! Aside from Jeremys Run, this surely must have the most stream crossings of any trail in SNP. Water levels were low, and Onemile Run was little more than a trickle. It was pleasantly cooler here than up on the ridge. Our crossings were easy, but this must be something in high water! The trickling stream and lush vegetation gave it a most remote feel. The trail veers away from Onemile Run at its lower end, becoming a fast woods walk.

We reached the boundary close to the necessary turn around time. This meant little time to explore the scree slope just off trail near the lower crossings, which I forgot to explore last time here. We went to the edge and I scrambled up a short distance, but it would have been a long hot go to get to the top, and I doubt there would be much to see from the top of the scree slope. At one point along the lower end of Onemile Run, there are huge boulders off trail on the south side (the north slope of Rocky Mountain). I had hoped to see a bear along this trail, but none were seen, though after the steep climb back to ridge line, I'm pretty sure I heard one running off through the woods. We were back at Twomile Run Overlook at 11:15am, on schedule, Rob and Ellen having just arrived.

It's nice having a resupply mid hike! A fresh shirt, and fresh socks and boots. Changing boots goes against my saying "never mess with the moisture balance in the boot", the foot being in equilibrium with its moist environment, but did so anyway. The feet were temporarily dry, but never felt quite right the rest of the hike. Restocking food and water at the car, it was now time for hike number two- Rocky Mount and Gap Run, the trailhead a short walk north from the overlook. It was great hiking with Rob and Ellen again! Rob has been on all Western hiking trips and Ellen on many. We've logged many miles and memories over the years (decades, wow!). In recent years, Rob's knee (and sense of sanity) has kept him from doing the distances I do, and we somehow had not linked up for a hike in a very long time.

As with most hikes from Skyline Drive, the hike begins with a considerable downhill. We took Gap Run Trail at the junction, continuing the descent. Gap Run was low but flowing. There were other hikers on the trail, but they were opting to hike the loop portion the opposite direction. We preferred to keep the payoff views for later in the hike. Passing by an unlabeled concrete trail post where a former tail connects to Beldor Road on private property (used last time hiking here), we continued along Gap Run. From the debris beside the run, it was evident that Gap Run had been much higher at some point earlier this year. Somewhat further on is a second unlabeled concrete trail post, hinting of a long ago trail on Beldor Ridge. Finally, a third concrete marker indicates the north end of the Rocky Mount Trail, with the "park boundary" access along Gap Run scratched out.

We rested awhile at Gap Run before the warm Rocky Mount climb. We rested long enough to pick up a number of deer tick. Between here and the summit we'd meet the parties that were hiking the opposite direction. The climb starts along a stream, still flowing despite the recent dryness, then switchbacks to climb an arm of Rocky Mount. The trail crosses a scree slope, offering decent views of Hightop and Beldor Ridge to the northeast. The climb is steady, eventually passing a long rock ledge to the side, making one think they're near the top, but not. The climb continues another half mile and 350', cresting the top on the west side amongst pine, with views south opening up on rocky outcrops. It may be a lot of work to get here, but the views show the best of the south district, Twomile Ridge in the foreground, Cedar and Trayfoot in the background, and all the good stuff in between. We were almost too tired to enjoy the views in the open sun.

From here it was down to the saddle junction with Gap Run Trail, then a thousand foot climb back to Skyline Drive just north of Twomile Run Overlook. Two hikes from the same start point with great company. How nice is that?!

Pictures

SNP central: Staunton River/AT/Jones Mountain

Risking an overload of hiker activity due to Shenandoah's 75th anniversary celebration this past Saturday, I set out on a 20 miler with co-hikers John and Steve not far from the thick of things in the middle of the central district. The hike began around 8:30am at the Graves Mill trailhead on the east side, route 662 from Wolftown. First up, an easy walk along the Rapidan River on the Graves Mill Trail, then up along the Staunton River on the Staunton River Trail. The weather was nice and the "rivers" gently flowing.
The two crossings of the Staunton River were easy with the low water conditions. We took the standard shot of the slab-pile up above the first crossing. The upper portion of the Staunton River Trail had a wild look to it, a bit overgrown, with nettles encroaching on the trail, pretty standard for summer. Not so bad as to warrant attaching the pants legs. The trail is somewhat shorter than the trail markers indicate, at about 3.8 miles.
Enjoying the lack of a blazing sun (the forecast called for "mostly sunny"), we ambled up Fork Mountain Road to The Sag. Butterflies ahead on the road were staying just out of camera range, repeatedly taking off and landing further up the road as we approached. At "The Sag", the short version of this hike would go left and take Jones Mountain Trail to Cat Knob. I've done that segment of Jones Mountain Trail only once! The longer versions involve descending to Laurel Prong via the Fork Mountain Trail, and old switchbacked road. Free of leaves (seemingly overly so), this was an easy descent. I've waded knee deep in leaves here in late autumn. Wide Laurel Prong was an easy crossing on small rocks. Our first encounter of other hikers was at the crossing. A short distance further and we were on the Laurel Prong Trail. The moderate version of this hike would be to take Laurel Prong to Cat Knob, but this was the long route, so right we went, down to to Camp Hoover.
Camp Hoover was open for ranger led tours, and there was slightly more activity here than usual, surely a spillover from Big Meadows a couple miles up trail. I had stumbled upon here once before as a tour began and joined in. This time we were here just for a water, food, and a rest break. On the climb out to Milam Gap, we met only three sets of hikers; the fear of hiker overload unwarranted. It was still early, and I suspect things got busier as the day progressed. Big Rock Falls was pretty as always, and the Mill Prong trails a pleasant and quiet walk. I expected to hear the activity at Big Meadows from Milam Gap, but I forgot that Big Meadows was over a mile away. The Drive was busier, perhaps.
Picking up the AT at Milam Gap, we headed south, climbing Hazeltop. This stretch has what I call the "straightaway", a nearly quarter mile straight line of sight segment of the AT. I zoomed on ahead so I could get pictures at the far end as John and Steve came into view. Just shy of the summit, a short side trail leads to nice views west. Instead of the forecast sun, the sky remained overcast, keeping temperatures comfortable.
The mile stretch of Laurel Prong between the AT and Cat Knob is not a particular favorite of mine, rocky and too many pointless ups and downs (PUDs), but it serves as a frequent connector. The Cat Knob Trail doesn't mess with that- it's a steep one, gaining just under 500 feet in a half mile. On the climb, I found some lost notes from a scout group that had passed through here earlier in the day. The notes indicated an overnight at Jones Mountain Cabin, so they were ahead on the Jones Mountain Trail. It also indicated they'd be at the cabin for lunch, so were hopefully well ahead. I pocketed the notes just in case I caught up with them (but hoping not to).
It was a quiet and peaceful walk out the Jones Mountain Trail. I had somehow pulled ahead and was feeling the solitude. This is the place for that. The trail meanders along the ridge of Jones Mountain, hitting a couple knobs before getting to the big payoff, Bear Church Rock. Ahead at the second knob I heard voices... lots of them; I had caught up with the scout group. They were on top of the second knob wondering where Bear Church Rock was hiding. I assured them it was still further along (it's always further out than one might expect), down from the knob. I led the way. I'd better be right! Just as I started to doubt myself, the short laurel-shrouded spur to Bear Church Rock appeared. There was plenty of room for all, and I was unexpectedly excited to see the look of wonder on their faces and hear their exclamations upon being at Bear Church Rock for the first time. It is an awesome place! John and Steve arrived shortly, and all were jovial. The scout group soon left, and Bear Church Rock was as I almost always find it, just it and the group I'm with.
From Bear Church Rock, it was nowhere but down, unfriendly to the knees, but on quality trail and old road. Down Jones Mountain Trail to the Staunton River, then back out Staunton River Trail and Graves Mill Trail. As the old road beside the Staunton River suddenly disappears, I recalled the massive flooding of exactly 16 years ago that reshaped this area. Time (and PATC) has healed old wounds.
Pictures

SNP central: Corbin Hollow, Hawksbill, Rose River

I'm running out of hikes to do from the Old Rag parking lot in Nethers- other than Old Rag itself (it's been nearly six years?). The hike this past Saturday was the third recent hike to start from there. Fellow hiker Steve and I met my brother at the end point on Rose River fire road, then drove to the Old Rag lot. Only (only?) 8:30am, and the lot was filling fast. We hiked with the throngs up route 600 to the Park boundary, the throngs branching off onto the Old Rag's Ridge Trail, us sticking to Weakley Hollow fire road.
My eyesight seemed foggy. Had I forgotten to clean my glasses? No, they were clean. It was the humidity, the air was saturated, or supersaturated, causing the glasses to fog. Yukky grungy weather, another one of "those" hikes. It was warm but not hot, but the air was still. Hopefully we'd find a breeze higher up, and higher up we'd be, this time on Corbin Hollow Trail. Of all my miles in the Park, this would be only my third time on this trail. Once upon a time, a circuit hike of Robertson and Corbin Hollow would be just the right distance, but with 16+ milers there days, Corbin Hollow rarely appears on my radar. After an easy boulder crossing of Brokenback Run, the climb begins, though not as aggressive as Robertson. This is one fine trail! It has a remote feel, and likely sees little traffic. With a slight breeze, my glasses finally cleared. As expected, the laurel along here was well past peak. While nothing special, there was a stretch along the upper trail where the forest was more open, everything green, and I paused just to take in the serenity. It was one of those "neat place" moments.
The trail terminates on Old Rag fire road, Robertson Mountain Trail a short distance down, and Corbin Mountain Trail a ways up. We'd walk Old Rag fire road up to Limberlost. Being higher up, there was the occasional aging laurel bloom and assorted wildflowers. While stopped to get water beyond Comer's Deadening, a ranger drove up and asked where we started. We said "the Old Rag lot", and he said he'd seen us there. Before he had the chance to tell us we were going the wrong way, I told him our route. "That's one nice route you've got there!", he replied. I suspect they patrol Old Rag fire road on these busy weekends, as I know from my hikes here that a few hikers make the wrong turn way down at the fire road junction and wind up misplaced.
There were folk enjoying a stroll on the packed-gravel Limberlost Trail. For us, it was a connector to Crescent Rock Trail, which we'd take to the overlook then down to the AT. Laurel was past peak even here, with the many blossoms on the ground telling that it had been a fine display. Crescent Rock Overlook was our first rest break of the day. The overlook had the standard car folk, some setting up lawn chairs in the shade, even someone taking their ferret out for a walk. I headed over to Crescent Rock when I saw it was free, and scrambled around there more than on previous visits.
We picked up the AT below Crescent Rock and headed south a short distance to Hawksbill Gap. The steep fire road walk to Hawksbill summit is a favorite climb, one that can really get the heart thumping. Being warm and humid, it was not my intention to power up to the summit, but there was a hiker a couple hundred yards ahead of me, and I was determined to pass him. It was looking like I'd met my match, until he stopped about three quarters of the way up. "That's some pace you've got there!" I said as I passed without stopping. Surely he did not know he was in a race. Bottom to top in just under 16 minutes. There were folk at the summit, but not crowded. The guy I had passed was soon there, and we talked about the the AT (he was from NJ near the Delaware Water Gap). John and Steve arrived, and we wound up talking to a couple from Massachusetts that were spending the week in the Park. We gave them an assortment of "must do" hike ideas.
The day had seen a lot of clouds, keeping the temperature under control but the humidity high. Towering cumulus were lofting into the thin overcast, and a rain shaft was evident to the east. We had every expectation of getting wet on this hike (rain wet, in addition to sweat wet), but heard thunder only once. We descended to the AT on the Salamander Trail, then headed south to Fishers Gap, taking in a view at Franklin Cliffs and admiring the last of the mountain laurel. We broke from the AT at Fishers Gap and descended Rose River Loop Trail. Rose River Falls was looking a bit lazy, quite different than when we'd seen it frozen in December. With darkening skies the crowds had left, and it was quite peaceful done there. Just past the falls we encountered a good-sized rattlesnake across the trail. We got our pictures, then Steve (the snake charmer) coaxed it off the trail. We met a couple hikers a bit further on, warning them about the snake. They'd just seen two small copperhead on the bridge over Hogcamp Branch. One was still on the bridge bottom rail when we got there, but slithered into an open beam under the bridge.
Seeing several venomous snakes just prior to a bushwhack up to Rose River fire road was a little disconcerting. The bushwhack was a critical part of the route, saving nearly two miles and over 300 feet by not staying on Rose River Loop Trail all the way to Dark Hollow Falls. This was to be a retrace of the shortcut taken back in December, but where the GPS told me to veer left uphill, dense vegetation forced up right. A light rain began to fall. This was not working out so well. I knew we had to get well away from Hogcamp Branch, but the vegetation was in the way. John had seen a couple orange markers on trees, and luckily, we hit the fire road at a switchback. Veering right any more than we did and we could have kept climbing parallel to the road. As it was, we joined the road a quarter mile further upstream than intended.
Rose River fire road is rather rocky in places, the reason I don't come this way too often, but each time feels less rocky than the last, and the downhill in the light rain was easy going. I counted three orange newts on the descent, until my glasses once again fogged in the saturated air. I'm ready for a dry hike.

Pictures

SNP central: Corbin Mtn crawdad, Hannah Run thunderstorm

Eventually, nice weather and hike day will meet up. We were off by a couple days this past Saturday, another warm muggy day in Shenandoah. An early departure this time of year isn't really all that early- out the door at 6am, the sun is already up. This route took some thinking... how to hike Hannah Run with as little overlap from recent hikes while keeping the distance and elevation gain within reason. I could come up with no boundary access route. Boundary access is preferred, as it gets the primary climb done early. But that was not to be, as fellow hiker Steve and I set out on a 16 miler from quiet Pinnacles picnic area on Skyline Drive, central district Shenandoah National Park.
We'd be spending little time on the Appalachian Trail, so no thru-hiker candy this hike. That weight was replaced by rain gear, a forecast of "thunderstorms likely, mainly after 1pm". We had encountered some wet roads on the drive over, but the trails were pleasantly dry. The hike began southbound on the AT for about a mile, passing that rock ledge above the Drive which offers a fine view of Old Rag and Thorofare Mountain. We'd branch off just ahead on the AT, descending Corbin Cabin Cutoff down to the Hughes River. The mountain laurel was in full display along the AT and the upper half of Corbin Cabin Cutoff. Reaching Corbin Cabin, the crossing of the Hughes River was very easy on the well placed boulders. A short distance along on Nicholson Hollow Trail, we crossed Indian Run on the new earth and rock bridge built by PATC. Nice job!
Up next was the climb up Indian Run Trail. It was warm and humid, but a gentle breeze provided a little cooling. Another fine stand of mountain laurel along the upper portion of Indian Run made for a pleasant stroll as I paused for Steve to arrive. Down and up, it was time for down again, dropping once more to the Hughes River on the winding Corbin Mountain Trail. The trail twists and turns and snakes its way along the south side and east arm of Thorofare Mountain. The trail was frequently fragrant, but I could never determine the source. A trail maintainer was working the upper stretch. He looked quite exhausted, wearing bug netting with a cloud of gnats about. Soon after, a group of backpacking scouts were recuperating from their climb up Corbin Mountain. After rounding the east arm of Thorofare, the trail gets down to business, dropping down to the Hughes River via several switchbacks. At one switchback, I found a most unusual critter on the trail- a crawfish! (..or crayfish or crawdad, take yer pick). The little guy blended in with the wet trail, and was defending his territory, his little pincers raised at me. I got a great picture of the crawfish before he burrowed into a shallow pool. Now that was cool!
Another easy boulder crossing of the Hughes River put us back on Nicholson Hollow Trail. We took a good long break here before the major climb of the day, Hannah Run. What was I thinking when I put this hike together? A 2200 foot climb in the heat beyond the halfway point of a long hike? That's crazy! I slogged my way on up that trail, lacking the usual energy I have for Hannah Run. There's one break in the trail, where it drops down to cross Hannah Run. I stayed here a good spell, with Steve eventually arriving, looking more exhausted than I felt. During my break, I saw another crawfish in Hannah Run! I also found a couple deer tick.
As we began the climb from Hannah Run, a cooling outflow boundary hit; a storm was approaching, on cue, not long after the promised 1pm. This was one welcome thundershower! I hurried on to ridgeline and geared up. No close lightning and not much rain, but the cooling factor made the remaining climb less of a burden. Quickly losing the rain gear, the light cooling rain persisted the rest of the climb to Pinnacles Overlook. Upper Hannah Run, usually a guaranteed great spot for mountain laurel, was lacking considerably this year.
We watched the storm pull away from Pinnacles Overlook as we took another long break. To continue a hike from here, one must walk along Skyline Drive. Why oh why is there no connector trail to the AT?!? It's a bit over a mile either direction to pick up the AT, this time downhill north on Skyline Drive. Our options were to walk the rain-slicked retaining walls or wade through unmowed shoulder grass. We started out on the walls but moved to the slightly less dangerous shoulder. There really needs to be another option here (and no, not bushwhacking).
After a climb up Byrds Nest access road, we rejoined the AT at Byrds Nest shelter. There was nobody here! Where were all the thru-hikers? Oh well. Up and over The Pinnacle then down below Jewell Hollow Overlook and back to the mostly empty Pinnacles picnic area to end the hike. Laurel at The Pinnacle was a mix of open and closed buds, but a good display was found on the descent. A unique route, something that's getting harder to come by.

Pictures

SNP north: Mt Marshall/AT/Bluff

When late Friday afternoon rolls around and no hike route has been devised, one of several default routes is usually chosen. So was the case Saturday, doing a now standard trek, Mount Marshall, Appalachian Trail, and Bluff Trail in the north district of Shenandoah National Park. Once considered a long day hike, the 13.4-mile Marshall/AT/Bluff circuit has grown into a 21 mile trek by starting from the Park boundary (which adds 4.4 miles), adding an out and back to Compton Peak (another 3.0 miles), and a couple tenths exploring the rock outcrops on North Marshall. The Mount Marshall Trail has good laurel patches as does North Marshall on the AT, and we'd be hiking south on the AT meeting thru-hikers, so this was an easy decision. It would be just me and Steve on this outing, arriving at the Park boundary north of Washington, VA shortly after 8am. There was a sad sight as we approached the parking area- a lame doe with two fawn. The doe was struggling to get around on three legs, a front leg injured and unable to put weight on it.
The weather was pleasant, temperatures in the 70's and low dew point, though the humidity would be on the rise as the day progressed. The hike began with the nearly thousand foot ascent to Thorofare Gap between North Marshall and The Peak. There were several fine stands of mountain laurel in full display along here, the taller "tree" variety, as opposed to the shorter bush variety seen through much of Hazel Country last weekend. At Thorofare Gap, there's no hint of the old trail up The Peak; the cairn marker disappeared over a year ago, plus this isn't the time of year to go there (poison ivy anyone?).
Once past the gap, the Mount Marshall Trail remains fairly level as is traverses the east slope of North Marshall, rounding ravines and crossing several streams. It's along these ravines that the best laurel stands are found, and being the taller variety, produces a tunnel effect. In my many hikes here, this is the first time capturing laurel at peak. Very nice! With the quality trail, we completed the 5.7 miles segment in a little over two hours, meeting no other hikers.
From Jenkins Gap, the burn area on the south slope of Compton was visible as a patch of bare brown trees. We had hiked through there a couple weeks after the February fire, and now we'd get a chance to see the new vegetation. We picked up the AT at Jenkins Gap and started the Compton climb. More laurel, then the burn area, which had new low green growth and wildflowers amidst the blackened trees. I'd brought along a bag of candy for the thru-hikers. I expected to have some left to hand out at Gravel Springs Hut, but was depleted before finishing the out and back to Compton! We met a group of thru-hikers taking a break at Compton Spring, and a few more on the way back south. Just as well, as there was nobody else at Gravel Springs Hut when we were there later in the day.
We had Compton Peak west view to ourselves, other than a lone photographer that came by as we were about to leave. It was actually rather quiet on the trails for such a nice day. Fine by me. After a break, it was back down the AT to Jenkins Gap, with a stop at Compton Spring for water and to chat with another thru-hiker. The climb south out of Jenkins Gap is a favorite. It feels like bear territory, but I don't think I've ever seen a bear through here. Crossing Skyline Drive, the climb up North Marshall continued, meeting the occasional northbounder. A little disappointment at finding closed laurel blossoms on North Marshall, but the views were fine. I scrambled to a couple rock outcrops at the point where the trail makes a switchback, where the ridges to the south open up and disappear into the haze. This is certainly my favorite spot in the north district.
On over South Marshall into Gravel Springs Gap and on to the empty shelter for a snack, water resupply, and a check of the journal. The journal was new but already had a number of entries, with frequent mention of bear sightings and Elkwallow blackberry shakes. As we headed out the Bluff Trail, we met a backpacking family headed towards the shelter. Further along we met other day hikers, and a couple tenting near the Big Devils Stairs junction. Up and down along the Bluff Trail, eventually reaching the Mount Marshall Trail, which would lead 2.2 miles back to the car.
The first 20+ miler of the year. Also the first deer tick of the year. The upcoming weekend should have nice laurel blooms at the higher elevations. That's where you'll find me.

Pictures

SNP central: Hazel Country mountain laurel paradise

It's mountain laurel time in Shenandoah National Park! The abundant spring rains would make for a stellar display, at least that was the hope, and we were not disappointed. This hike route was designed to pass through several known abundant laurel spots in Hazel Country in the central district east side. We'd have two cars, so could cover a lot of trail. Steve and Dan would be coming from Maryland, my brother John and I coming from Virginia's Northern Neck. I awoke Saturday with a cold, but unless a fever came on, I was determined to do the Sunday hike. With the heat and car shuttle, a predawn departure was called for, meeting at the Buck Hollow trailhead on US-211 at 7:30am, then heading to the Old Rag lot in Nethers to start the hike.
The Old Rag lot was busy and filling up fast when we arrived at 8am. It must have been a (yet another) crazy day up on Old Rag. We'd be one of the few to not be there for Old Rag though. While our cars were only six miles apart, the windy hike route through Hazel Country would span 16 miles. Sixteen miles without ever touching the AT, and only a short retrace of steps to a side destination. This hike used thirteen trail segments, three being the Hazel Mountain Trail, not all in the same direction. From the Old Rag lot, we hiked up SR-600, crossed the Hughes River on the Nicholson Hollow Trail, climbed Hot-Short Mountain Trail, used Hazel Mountain Trail to get to Catlett Mountain and Catlett Spur trails, Hazel Mountain again to the Hazel River Trail, back to Hazel Mountain via White Rocks Trail, exiting via Buck Ridge and the tail end of Buck Hollow. I had a map, but didn't need it.
It was evident right off the bat that we'd hit mountain laurel at peak in the lower levels. Brilliant white and pinkish blossoms abound. It was a mountain laurel paradise! As the climb up Hot-Short progressed, there was an increasing number of closed blossoms, but they too are a pleasant sight to see. Expecting this, I kept the route low, which also kept the route very warm and humid. The "hot" in Hot-Short was. Humid too, as in saturated humid, as in sweat running down the leg and soaking the sock inside the boot humid, as in drink a gallon of water and never stop to... well, yep, humid it was. The east side always is.
Hazel Mountain Trail was used as a connector several times. After the sweat-fest climb up Hot-Short, it was a relatively flat walk to Catlett Mountain Trail. The PATC guide book calls this a "fairly level" trail, even though it's got on really steep stretch. The destination was the Hazel River Trail... so what are we doing here?!?... adding miles, that's all. Catlett Mountain, Catlett Spur, and Hazel Mountain (walking towards where we were earlier), all with mostly unopened laurel blossoms, got us over to the Hazel River Trail.
We'd seen few hikers up to this point, other than the hoards that were heading up Old Rag, but on descending Hazel River we met a number of tired looking backpackers heading up. When asked "are we near the top?", and being nowhere near it, you kind of hate having to say "no". Hazel River Trail was a bit overgrown, but not overly, and the nettles were mostly at bay. Turning left at the White Rocks Trail junction, we were soon at the Hazel River crossing. John took advice from a couple hikers we had just met and traversed a downed tree, Steve and Dan rock-hopped, and I de-booted and crossed sock-footed. We'd take a long break here before the steep climb to the White Rocks ridge line. The tall dead hemlock by the river is now down, and made for good sitting. I used the Steri-Pen a couple times, having to replace the batteries first. Always carry spare batteries!
The trail to ridge line takes no prisoners- up, up, up. A slight S-curve to it, otherwise a straight shot. The climb is not done once on ridge line though, as the trail climbs and descends a series of knobs. At the first knob, rocks on the north side provide fine views, but it's the rocks a couple knobs further along that provide the best views and scrambling opportunity. It's easy to pass right by these, so be looking for them on the south side of the trail. The mountain laurel through here was in full display, and though hot in the sun, it was fun playing on the rocks.
Shortly past the rocks comes the steep stepped side trail to a small waterfall and tiny cave. Nearly 200' down, it's well worth it- cool and refreshing. It felt over ten degrees cooler by the waterfall, and at the back of the cave, a refreshingly cool moist breeze could be felt sifting through damp cracks. Of course, what goes down must go up, and again we were back on White Rocks Trail in the heat and humidity. The slope of the climb lessens, and we made good time to the Hazel Mountain Trail junction.
Our third time on Hazel Mountain Trail, it was a steady climb to our exit route, Buck Hollow via Buck Ridge. I knew the mountain laurel on Buck Ridge would be in bloom, the rest was a bonus. Buck Ridge did not disappoint, as it was the mountain laurel paradise. This was all downhill, not something my knee cares for, but it was nice to not be battling the heat and humidity. Amidst the laurel, there were brief hazy views of Marys Rock and Oventop. I was careful with the knee on the very steep stepped descent off Buck Ridge, the marvelous work PATC did installing those logs never ceases to amaze me. Before those logs, descending Buck Ridge was never a consideration.
We arrived at the Thornton River crossing on Buck Hollow to find that the PATC stepping boulders had been dislodged by the recent heavy rains and flooding. The mountain streams and rivers must have been something to see during that period. From the looks of it, the boulders were undermined by the current, shifting them somewhat. Steve trusted one wet tilted boulder enough to go for it, and made it across. Dan jumped (not hopped, jumped) across successfully via a dry boulder (he can do that, his knees work). Since the hike was essentially over, I kept the boots on and waded through the refreshing current, water coming to a few inches above the knee (about two feet deep). John put on neoprene booties and waded as well. A family had gathered, intending to venture up the trail a bit, but the difficult crossing turned them away (certainly after watching us cross). The boulders aren't too far out of place, and I greatly appreciate and know the effort PATC undertook placing them there. Hopefully it won't be too difficult a job to reposition them.
Hiking with a cold is not a lot of fun, especially in the heat. A wise one would probably have just stayed home, but miss the first big mountain laurel display of the season?... no way! No bears, no deer, just a squirrel or two and assorted insects (including ticks, but so far no deer tick). One has to wonder though, amidst all those blossoms, where are the bees?

Pictures

SNP south: Doomsday Hike

Yes, the world was to end on Saturday (the whole Rapture and "End Of Days" thing, you know), so what better place to be than in Shenandoah National Park? It's been slow getting up to speed this year- if not the weather then bad knees. "Osseous stress reaction" is the MRI diagnosis for what was my good knee, high grade chondromalacia patella, good old arthritis, which comes as no surprise. I don't use it, it hurts; I use it, it feels better but just damages it more. A downward spiral indeed. Doomsday, bah!
An early start is needed for a south district hike, coming from the Maryland 'burbs. Since when is 6am early? Heck, the sun was already up when fellow hiker Steve came by to get me. My brother John would be coming from the Virginia Northern Neck. The hike route was about as simple as it gets... Appalachian Trail from Swift Run Gap south to Loft Mountain, then down Frazier Discovery Trail to Loft Mountain Wayside. A favorite segment of the AT, thru-hiker encounters, and a blackberry shake to end the hike, how nice is that?! What could be better... a bear sighting, perhaps?
After a long shuttle behind a slow Park vehicle, we were on the trail at 9:30am. First up was the moderate climb out of Swift Run Gap followed by the longer haul up Hightop. I was hauling something extra, a bag of candy for the thru-hikers. "Snickers Peanut Butter Squared" is my trail magic of choice, and it didn't take long to find a thru-hiker, "Calculator", dropping down to Swift Run Gap. The thru-hikers we met had left Springer in early to mid March, had a rough time in the Smokies, and were drying out from a week of rain.
Spring has finally made it to the higher points. Things were just starting to green up on Robertson two weeks ago, but now the high points are greening up fast. Lush green everywhere, a delight to see after what seemed a long cold winter. Wildflowers abound. Flower-lined trail much of the way, little white flowers that defy camera focus, and ample violets. Mountain laurel about to bloom, surely somewhere along our route we'd find an open blossom. The view atop Hightop was occupied upon arrival, but waited them out, and the spot opened as Steve and John arrived. Great views from here- Beldor Ridge, Rocky Mount, even Trayfoot and Massanutten in the distance. A short break followed at Hightop Hut, where there were three thru-hikers about to press on. I gave each candy.
For the next seven miles it's gap-to-gap hiking- Smith Roach, Powell, Simmons, and Pinefield. There's a great view down Bacon Hollow on the climb out of Powell Gap. At the top of the climb on an arm of Flattop, new-agey wind music was coming from nearby to the south. The AT is along the Park boundary here, with houses just a couple hundred feet from the trail. It's not remote, but sure feels it.
The next stop was Pinefield Hut, where a tired looking thru-hiker was getting water. He perked up at the offer of candy (I gave him two). I had been hiking out ahead, so had plenty of time to get acquainted with the hoards of black flies. I think they're getting worse each year. The mountain laurel looked oh so close to blooming on the climb out of Pinefield Gap. If there was any to be found, it was between here and Ivy Creek. I met another thru-hiker at Ivy Creek Overlook and dispensed more candy. I don't think any of the thru-hikers I met knew about the famous Shenandoah wayside blackberry shakes. I did my part to inform them. Seems these May thru-hikers are more concerned about putting on the miles, while the June thru-hikers are more relaxed.
Next up, my favorite spot on the AT in Shenandoah, the small piney vista above Rockytop Overlook. Not far from Skyline Drive at all (in fact the Drive is in view), but the views west are supreme- Rocky and Brown Mountains, Rockytop, Patterson Ridge, Great North Mountain (when the visibility allows), all in a cozy pine setting. I refer to it as "my spot".
Finally, just beyond, mountain laurel in bloom! One lone bloom. We photographed the heck out of it. A short time earlier we had been told of a bear down the trail. That almost always means no bear for us to see, as it's long gone. Plus, Steve is convinced he's bear repellent, and in a prolonged bear drought. Well, lo and behold!... there just off trail was a good-sized bear! It wasn't running away, and then I quickly determined why- it was a mother bear with at least two cubs, one of which was in a tree. While most will make noise in this situation, I (we) approached rather stealthily, until that is, Steve took a tumble while fetching his camera. That got momma bears attention, and she ambled further off trail over a ridge top. Still, all got a decent view, and Steve's bear drought has finally ended.
With all the recent rain, Ivy Creek was as pretty as I've seen, and I got a nice long exposure shot. Beyond Ivy Creek came the long climb of Loft Mountain, our final climb of the day. Steve was running low on fuel and the day was getting long. Would we reach Loft Mountain Wayside in time to get a blackberry shake? A lone hiker passed us (that's rare) but I kept up with him a bit. We were all trying to figure out what the white flowers that lined the trail were called. I didn't get the hikers name, but he was quite knowledgeable of the Park's trails. I was passed earlier in the hike by a trail runner. Over the course of the hike we encountered three trail runners. That's pretty unusual.
The views from the open rocks on Loft Mountain at the AT junction with the Frazier Discovery Trail are among the best the Park has to offer, with Hightop off in the distance to the northeast (we were there?) to the numerous south district peaks to the west. So close to a big campground, and we were the only ones here. A family with two young kids eventually showed up. It surprises me to find this fine place empty more often than not. Sure, it takes a bit of exertion to complete the Frazier circuit, but the views at the top are certainly worth it (not to mention the massive overhanging rock on the north side of the loop).
We arrived at Loft Mountain Wayside shortly after 5:30pm. They close at 6pm, but prior experience tells me the grill shuts down before closing time. We had made it on time! A blackberry shake outdoors as the crowds thinned. A fine ending to the Doomsday Hike.

Pictures

SNP central: A Walk in the Clouds

Where's spring? It's been eluding me on Saturday outings. There's the problem... avoid Saturday! Sometimes you just can't help it and there you are. As it was this past Saturday with fellow hikers Steve and Dan. Anticipating a government shutdown, this hike would be from the boundary (aren't they all?). Close the Drive, I say, and be free of "car people". Nothing better than a quiet Park. Alas, no shutdown, but who'd come out on such a dreary day. Quite a few it seemed.
Not much activity at the Whiteoak lot in Berry Hollow around 8:45am (I'm getting lazy for sure). 43 degrees under a gloomy overcast. The ragged clouds hugging the hills on the ride over reminded me a bit of the Smokies. Maybe we'll hike above the clouds on Hawksbill! Getting there would be via the direct approach, up Cedar Run to Hawksbill summit. Sure, there are signs of spring at the lowest levels- green and red buds that are just waiting for a reason to open, and a few bedraggled trillium. The two crossings of Cedar Run were reasonable. We ascended into the clouds near the upper crossing. These are perfect conditions for those long exposure shots I love to capture. Ample water, diffuse light, quite the perfect scene.
Dan noticed a remote sensor just off trail above the Cedar Run slide and pool. Looks new, probably measuring temperature. I guess the Park Service is doing some sort of study (any way to tap into that data network?). We met several groups of hikers coming down from the Drive. Some we'd see much later in the hike. We regrouped at cold and damp Hawksbill Gap in the dense eerie fog. Steve appeared as a shadow through the woods. We could wait and do Hawksbill later in the hike, with hopes of clearing, or now. It was somewhat brighter, so the hopes of climbing above the clouds said do Hawksbill now. We did. We remained in the clouds, though the sun's disk was briefly visible. Who'd be here on such a day? The summit platform was actually crowded, something I don't often see even in the best conditions. Many here were with the Northern Virginia Hiking Club.
Descending to Upper Hawskbill, we took the Skyland-Big Meadows Horse Trail to Fishers Gap. This stretch of trail is quite rocky in places, and has long been a "least favorite" of mine. This was Dan's first time on this segment, and his sentiment was pretty much in line. Winter hasn't been kind to this trail, as there are a number of blowdowns. In the fog (and otherwise), the trail has quite the remote feel about it. I didn't mind being here and one never finds others here. Once joined into the Rose River Loop Trail, the footing is as good as it gets, all the way to Fishers Gap.
At Fishers Gap, the fog was about as thick as any I've hiked in. You needed to know your trails to figure out where to go next. A trail junction marker could be less than 100 feet away and you'd never know it. A few cars appeared and disappeared. Needing no map or sense of direction, we picked up the AT and headed north, soon passing the blank rock outcrops along Franklin Cliffs. Pausing at the junction to Rock Spring Hut, a couple backpackers caught up. These were Itznot and J-Cracker, early season thru-hikers. They left Springer on February 5th. The Smokies hadn't been difficult, the snowy trail had been well trodden. The highlands north of there had been rather difficult. I mentioned Ewok, the thru-hiker we met in Georgia on his first day on the trail (as a northbounder) last May and later hiked with (as a southbounder) into SNP in early November. They remembered him well, and mentioned that he should be just about done. "Ewok finished last week" I told them. In Ewok's blog, these were the two NOBO thru-hikers that he'd played poker with at Chestnut Knob Shelter near Burke's Garden. Not expecting any thru-hikers this early, I had little trail magic to offer. I gave each some candy (Butterfinger Squares are a big hit).
We left the AT at Hawksbill Gap, descending the horse trail to Whiteoak Canyon, where we met some of the hikers from earlier. They'd gotten a bit lost in the thick fog, and were happy to hear they were headed towards Hawksbill Gap. We got to the upper falls in the clouds. Oh boy... descending Whiteoak Canyon on wet rocks! Add to that a knee going bad, and it was a grueling descent. Out of the clouds for the lower falls, we stopped briefly to admire, knowing the rough part of the descent was done.
I'm ready for warmth and greenery. Please!

Pictures

SNP north: Dickey Ridge & AT

A linear hike, Dickey Ridge Trail from Skyline Drive entrance near front Royal to Compton Gap, then Appalachian Trail south to Gravel Springs Gap. Crocus about to bloom at the lowest levels signaling the arrival of spring, and patches of snow at the highest levels showing winter hanging on. Although having hiked the AT between Compton and Gravel Springs Gap several weeks earlier, this would pass through the recent burn area. Burnt wood smell was noticeable at Lands Run Gap, and again south of Compton Gap. On the AT, the burn area is mostly on Compton, particularly on the south slope. The burn areas were patchy and not too severe except for the larger patch on the south slope of Compton. The odor of charred wood was heavy through here. South of Jenkins Gap, the only sign of the fire were a few patches shortly before the Drive crossing (in the vicinity of the old foundation).

Pictures

SNP central: Powell Mtn, AT, Mill & Laurel Prong, Meadow School

Sometimes when it's gloomy and overcast in the lowlands, the high ridges are above the clouds- a rare and special treat. The hike this past Saturday was not one of those. It was overcast as fellow hikers Steve, Dan, and I set out predawn for a central district hike. The Powell Mountain trailhead is buried deep in central district's west side. Many south district hikes involve less travel time. This hike would eventually lead to 3812' Hazeltop, the third highest peak in Shenandoah. We had to get there first, starting with the 2100' Powell Mountain climb to Hazeltop Ridge Overlook on Skyline Drive. It was chilly but not cold as we started the climb under grey skies, a little light rain to warrant a pack cover but no rain jacket. The trail uses an old road, discernible at lower levels as crunchy leaf filled ditches. Under a mile in, there was a view of a frozen waterfall up Big Creek in the narrow gorge between Powell Mountain and Peters Point.
We hiked on up into the clouds, never getting above them. We were fogged in at Hazeltop Ridge Overlook. It was windy and chilly there, with enough sideways drizzle to bring out the rain jackets. From here, it was a Drive walk of under a mile south to Bootens Gap, where we picked up the AT and headed north over Hazeltop. Being in the clouds, there was no reason to stop at the side trail north of the top to otherwise good views. My favorite thing about Hazeltop is the 400 yard AT "straightaway". I can't recall any other wooded clear line of sight segment of the AT like this. We were below the clouds now, so could see end to end. It's one of my favorite AT spots.
We paused at Milam Gap to regroup. There's a neat tree with five trunks here, which I had never stopped to notice until now. It certainly had a rough history. Next up was a muddy descent to Rapidan Camp (aka Camp Hoover) via the Mill Prong trails, with a stop at Big Rock Falls. There were a few other hikers doing this popular circuit, but we had the Brown House at Camp Hoover to ourselves. Usually a warm sheltered spot for a break, it was chilly here too. The low cloud base loomed a couple hundred feet above, obscuring Fork Mountain.
The trail out Laurel Prong looked battered. There's a fair bit of deadfall along here amidst the dense undergrowth, but the soggy trail was mostly clear of obstacles. I expected to climb back into the clouds, but the low clouds were in the process of dissipating. No sunny skies though, as broken mid level clouds and a high overcast remained. Fortunately no rain, so there was a drying trend as we made the rocky trek from Laurel Gap back to the AT. We followed the AT south to the Bearfence rock scramble.
Having vowed to never again put Bearfence near the end of a long hike, here we were, nearly 14 miles in with 4200 feet of climbing, facing the rock scramble with tired legs on slick rocks. They warn about doing this scramble on wet rocks. Well, the rocks weren't totally wet, but they weren't totally dry either. Dan is a natural rock hopper, so nothing fazes him. I made the mistake of following him, only to find we weren't following the blue blazes. Easy for him, hard for me. There were a couple spots where I had to be extra careful to have solid footing. Having the boot slip and slide on an absolutely necessary platform doesn't inspire confidence. Slick rocks aside, we were all soon atop Bearfence. We had it to ourselves, and with the low clouds gone, we had good views. The sky looked threatening but we cared little. Bearfence, yea!
After a rest break at empty Bearfence Hut, it was down Meadow School Trail and Jollett Road back to the car. Dan found a vine to swing on and some ice patches to slide on along the way, otherwise it was an uneventful downhill at a rapid pace. Along the road walk outside the Park, "The Point" Overlook on Skyline Drive was visible, 1.7 miles distant and 1500' up. The barking dogs from several houses were no match for my own barking dogs. It's too early in the hiking season for my feet to be complaining so much. I don't feel "marathon hike" capable.

Pictures

SNP central: Hazel Country

With the north district Skyline Drive still closed due to the recent fire, a planned Neighbor/Knob/AT route was scrapped in favor of a "fall back" hike through Hazel Country in the northern central district. With little motivation to work a unique route, I pulled from a hike done early October last year. This time though there would be two vehicles, saving a downhill from ridgeline. That's the way I like it... more uphill than downhill! My brother John and fellow hiker Steve were companions on this trek. The hike would start at the Buck Hollow trailhead on US-211 and end on Skyline Drive at Meadow Spring. Steve had suffered a pretty good ankle twist earlier in the week, so it seemed a good idea to have multiple bailout options. Fortunately there was no need for that.
After the short shuttle to position the vehicles, we began our hike on Buck Hollow shortly before 9am. It was cloudy and chilly... where were the partly sunny skies? Crossing the Thornton River is so easy now on the conveniently placed boulders, although stream levels are low for this time of year. Branching off onto Buck Ridge Trail, the steep climb up the ridge begins. Once a climb with tricky footing, this is now one of the trail wonders in the Park (or just about anywhere)... the 600+ log steps and waterbars that PATC installed in the recent past is a true marvel. There's plenty of laurel along this trail, a fine place to be come May. Now it just has a bleak wintry look. The grey sky and chill fit the part. Just under two miles in, there are rocks with fine views north and east, with Oventop dominating. The bulk of the Buck Ridge climb is done by this point, so is always a place to take a break. A little further along, views briefly open up west and north, with Marys Rock dominating. The stark dead trees in the foreground frame the scene. The trail levels out and meanders through forest and laurel to the terminus on Hazel Mountain Trail.
At the junction, the end-point vehicle was a short walk to the Drive, but Steve's ankle was good to go, so we made the left turn and descended Hazel Mountain Trail, a pleasant walk on old road. A couple easy stream crossings and a fair distance later we branched off onto Catlett Mountain Trail, which led to Hannah Run Trail. Pinnacles Overlook could be seen ahead through the trees, a mile linear distance and about 900 feet up. We were in the second big climb of the day on upper Hannah Run Trail. I was well ahead on the uphill when I encountered Charles from Fredericksburg, a hiker I've met on this trail in the past. We talked about our routes, the recent fire, and other trail talk. A most pleasant fellow, with extensive knowledge of the the trails. John and Steve arrived and chatted a bit, then hiked on to Pinnacles Overlook, the end of the Hannah Run Trail.
It was cold and breezy at the overlook, so little lingering. I felt chilled even layered up, it was just that kind of day. The routine Drive walk south to Jewell Hollow Overlook followed, with me ranting about how there should be a spur trail to the AT south of The Pinnacle. If the route had been north on the AT, we would have bushwhacked over, but Pinnacles picnic area was on the agenda, so we stuck to the Drive to Jewell Hollow Overlook. The overlook is still closed for construction. Pinnacles picnic area was sheltered from the wind, and the sun was slowly making an appearance. We lingered here a good spell then headed back north on the AT, first passing below Jewell Hollow Overlook then climbing to the views on The Pinnacle. After a stop at Byrds Nest #3, it was on to Marys Rock for more good views, then back south and down Meadow Spring to end the hike. My feet and knees were happy to not have another extra 3 miles and 1800' of decent.

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SNP north: Oventop, Butterwood Branch, Thornton River, Pass Mtn

This hike falls into the "unusual routes" category. I've long had a Butterwood Branch (BB) bushwhack on my "to do" list (after reading of it in the PATC forum of course). The route down BB begins at the saddle between Oventop and Pass Mountain in the southern north district of SNP, where the Pass Mountain Trail makes a sharp turn. The concrete marker there is a remnant of the old routes up to Oventop and down BB. When you see one of those concrete markers that seems to mark nothing, it surely means another trail once existed. This hike would start from the Pass Mountain trailhead on US-211, a little under three miles east of the Thornton Gap entrance. This stretch of trail, formerly known as Turn Bridge, is a continuation of the old road down BB, and is now the lower end of Pass Mountain Trail.
The wind would be a big issue on this hike. Gusts over 60mph were forecast. It would be sunny and not too cold. Gear was similar to the previous hike, though the MicroSpikes could have stayed behind- the snow and ice had vanished except for a few tiny patches on the AT north side of Pass Mountain. It was quite comfortable for the most part, downright warm at times to the point of pulling off the Capilene top and hiking in t-shirt. It was a different story up on ridge line, where the remarkable Nano Puff insulated windstopper kept me warm. The risk of falling trees and branches was quite real. Another danger existed as well- fire, as would be evident later in the hike.
Fellow hiker Steve and I hit the trail shortly before 8:30am and winds were already quite strong. It was quick work to the gap. There would be two bushwhacks- Oventop and BB. This was my third trip to Oventop, which offers fine views from open rock slopes. The route follows an old road and informal trails, distinct for much of the way, but occasionally vanishes. A few cairns mark the way when the trail becomes indistinct. Getting there was easy and it was pleasant in the sun on the south-facing open rocks, sheltered from the wind. There are fine views of Hazel Country, The Pinnacle, and Marys Rock. Just a few steps away on north-facing rocks the wind was howling, making it difficult to balance, with views of North Marshall and The Peak.
After a fair break we headed back the way we came... or tried to at least. Although we were likely less than a hundred feet from the route we followed up, we got a bit misplaced and wound up doing a considerably more difficult than intended bushwhack to regain our bearings. Our wanderings ate time and distance, and sure looks goofy on the GPS track (GPS was not much help relocating the route... plain old common sense eventually worked).
OK! Back at the gap, ready for bushwhack two, down BB. The old road is quite easy to follow, with only a couple "which way" moments for the two mile downhill trek. There's a cemetery along here near the headwaters of BB, but I didn't locate it. It's a pleasant walk though fairly open woods, with only minor obstacles (for a bushwhack). The old road leaves the Park and skirts private land. The old road passes a cabin and eventually fords the North Fork Thornton River. After an easy rock-hop, we walked up the road back into the Park and hiked the Thornton River and Hull School trails to Skyline Drive. Winds were howling and trees swaying, with bright blue sky above. Gusts would whisk leaves past us or at us at whirling speed. There was a fresh blowdown on Hull School; I probably should have been more concerned about falling limbs and trees than I was.
I had time to build a small snow creature at Skyline Drive while waiting for Steve. Just enough snow from a plowed pile to do the job. A ranger vehicle raced southward while I rested beside the Drive, but didn't think much of it at the time. Back to hiking, it was on to Byrds Nest #4 via Neighbor Mountain Trail (on the same road as Hull School across the Drive) for a much needed break. We picked up the AT further along and headed south. Crossing the Drive just south of Beahms Gap, we went to the overlook for views. That's when I saw the smoke plume from the Smith Run fire. It was close, just beyond North Marshall, where we had hiked the previous weekend. The fire wasn't coming our way, but it did make me realize that I'd never really thought about what to do if caught in the path of a wildfire.
Pass Mountain was the final climb of the day. I recalled a viewpoint not far from the top on the north side, and found the short path to rocks with views west towards Neighbor Mountain. Our exit would be via Pass Mountain Trail. We stopped at the hut for a good spell, talking to the threesome spending the chilly night there. They'd be staying at Range View Cabin the following night. They were a friendly group, but daylight was shrinking and body chilling, so it was time to move on. Through the trees, Oventop glowed in the lowering sun and relief of Hazel Country grew in the shadows. With a fast downhill pace to keep warm, we were done by sunset. Ending in daylight again?... these hikes must not be long enough!
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SNP north: Mt Marshall, AT, Harris Hollow

Ah! Back on the trail after a six week break (not counting a Greenbelt Park 9 miler in January). Ease back into hiking, eh? Not a chance! Despite the cold and windy conditions it was time to get out there. Fellow hiker Steve and I met up with my brother John in Warrenton and headed towards the north district. We left a vehicle at the end point, the Harris Hollow trailhead on SR-622, then drove several miles to the start point, the Mount Marshall trailhead on SR-625 north of Washington, VA. I'd done Harris Hollow Trail inside the Park several years ago, but was never really sure if the remainder of the trail was hiker friendly. Although well outside the Park, there's a regular concrete marker (a positive indicator) at the trailhead (a private driveway), with room for one vehicle.
It would be a chilly day, temperatures in the 30's, but the main issue would be the winds- forecasts of 30+ mph. This brought out all the gear- mittens, Capilene top and bottom, assorted layers, and my most recent addition, a Patagonia Nano-Puff pullover jacket (Donn got one, I had to too). The other unknown was snow and ice, so of course the Micro-Spikes were in the pack. Not much snow showed on the Big Meadows webcam, but surely there would be snow and ice in the high woods, particularly on north-facing slopes. There was. Beyond the patchy ice on the initial climb to Thorofare Gap on the Mount Marshalll Trail, trails had granular snow over packed ice. Sounds slick, but generally good footing. Snow cover ranged from under an inch to perhaps 4" in spots, but no need for gaiters.
A good portion of the hike was sheltered from the wind by North Marshall, and we warmed up pretty fast on the Mount Marshall climb. I was shedding layers at the Park boundary. The trails had seen use but not recently. Tracks were not as easy to identify in the wind-blown granular snow, but we likely saw bobcat and fox. The Mount Marshall Trail was easy going and rather pleasant in the sun. Clouds and winds were on the increase as we made the final turn towards Jenkins Gap- it always feels cold along this final stretch. The howl of the wind in the tree tops signaled what was to come. We walked closed Skyline Drive to pick up the AT and headed north for a Compton Peak out and back. In the woods we were again sheltered from the wind, but quite exposed on Compton Peak, where four layers and mittens kept me warm. The Nano-Puff jacket is great as an outer shell. It does stop the wind and is very lightweight. Only my head was a bit cold, as my Polartec cap doesn't keep out the wind. I had a balaclava in the pack, but was not there long enough to bother fishing it out. Lightweight items needed to be secured, and I almost lost a mitten here.
The cloud cover was brief, and we were soon back in full sun. After returning to Jenkins Gap, the two-part climb of North Marshall ensued. I do like this climb! I plugged in earbuds and cranked up some tunes to blank the cold wind and took off for some fine head-down hiking. I paused to regroup at the old foundation shy of the Drive crossing before the longer climb to North Marshall. The trail was still granular snow over ice, even more so at elevation. Not expecting to encounter other hikers, I was somewhat startled and dismayed to meet a group of seven or so northbound hikers. Where they came from or where they were going is a mystery, as they were out of range by the time I pulled out the earbuds.
It was windy on North Marshall, but not quite as strong as on Compton. The view south across the numerous hazy blue ridges is perhaps my favorite in the Park. The rock outcrop directly on the AT is not the place to view it though. The best place is a bit further on, atop the rocks at a switchback. It was a short icy scramble, but wouldn't have done it without the Micro-Spikes. I kept them on for the rest of the hike. Neither John nor Steve joined me at this "secret" spot.
After the minor bump (southbound) otherwise known as South Marshall, it was on to Gravel Springs Hut for a final break. I did have another reason to be here though... to read the journal entries left by SOBO thru-hikers Ewok and Sissy, with whom we hiked into SNP in November. We had first met Ewok on the AT in Georgia last May, his first night on the trail. He later flip-flopped and had met southbounder Sissy in New York. I had been following him on his blog, and it worked out that we were able to hike with them in November as they were passing through. We had promised them beer and pizza at the hut, only to be thwarted by a closed Skyline Drive. Ewok left the trail in Pearisburg and will likely resume in March. Sissy continued on through the bitter cold and snow of the Grayson and Roan Highlands and the Smokies, finishing her thru-hike in late January. Pretty amazing! In the journal, Ewok had kind words regarding us, and Sissy had visions of cheeseburgers. It was emotional reading Ewok's page-long entry.
Out Harris Hollow. Tracks in the snow indicated that others had exited this way some days earlier. An old road, it was an easy walk. It eventually reaches a cul-de-sac (with a porta-john no less) and passes a couple houses. We finished the hike with daylight to spare. A 17 miler with 3700' elevation gain to kick off the SNP hiking season. Not bad! But then came Sunday, and I could barely move.
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