Saturday, February 19, 2011

SNP north: Oventop, Butterwood Branch, Thornton River, Pass Mtn

This hike falls into the "unusual routes" category. I've long had a Butterwood Branch (BB) bushwhack on my "to do" list (after reading of it in the PATC forum of course). The route down BB begins at the saddle between Oventop and Pass Mountain in the southern north district of SNP, where the Pass Mountain Trail makes a sharp turn. The concrete marker there is a remnant of the old routes up to Oventop and down BB. When you see one of those concrete markers that seems to mark nothing, it surely means another trail once existed. This hike would start from the Pass Mountain trailhead on US-211, a little under three miles east of the Thornton Gap entrance. This stretch of trail, formerly known as Turn Bridge, is a continuation of the old road down BB, and is now the lower end of Pass Mountain Trail.
The wind would be a big issue on this hike. Gusts over 60mph were forecast. It would be sunny and not too cold. Gear was similar to the previous hike, though the MicroSpikes could have stayed behind- the snow and ice had vanished except for a few tiny patches on the AT north side of Pass Mountain. It was quite comfortable for the most part, downright warm at times to the point of pulling off the Capilene top and hiking in t-shirt. It was a different story up on ridge line, where the remarkable Nano Puff insulated windstopper kept me warm. The risk of falling trees and branches was quite real. Another danger existed as well- fire, as would be evident later in the hike.
Fellow hiker Steve and I hit the trail shortly before 8:30am and winds were already quite strong. It was quick work to the gap. There would be two bushwhacks- Oventop and BB. This was my third trip to Oventop, which offers fine views from open rock slopes. The route follows an old road and informal trails, distinct for much of the way, but occasionally vanishes. A few cairns mark the way when the trail becomes indistinct. Getting there was easy and it was pleasant in the sun on the south-facing open rocks, sheltered from the wind. There are fine views of Hazel Country, The Pinnacle, and Marys Rock. Just a few steps away on north-facing rocks the wind was howling, making it difficult to balance, with views of North Marshall and The Peak.
After a fair break we headed back the way we came... or tried to at least. Although we were likely less than a hundred feet from the route we followed up, we got a bit misplaced and wound up doing a considerably more difficult than intended bushwhack to regain our bearings. Our wanderings ate time and distance, and sure looks goofy on the GPS track (GPS was not much help relocating the route... plain old common sense eventually worked).
OK! Back at the gap, ready for bushwhack two, down BB. The old road is quite easy to follow, with only a couple "which way" moments for the two mile downhill trek. There's a cemetery along here near the headwaters of BB, but I didn't locate it. It's a pleasant walk though fairly open woods, with only minor obstacles (for a bushwhack). The old road leaves the Park and skirts private land. The old road passes a cabin and eventually fords the North Fork Thornton River. After an easy rock-hop, we walked up the road back into the Park and hiked the Thornton River and Hull School trails to Skyline Drive. Winds were howling and trees swaying, with bright blue sky above. Gusts would whisk leaves past us or at us at whirling speed. There was a fresh blowdown on Hull School; I probably should have been more concerned about falling limbs and trees than I was.
I had time to build a small snow creature at Skyline Drive while waiting for Steve. Just enough snow from a plowed pile to do the job. A ranger vehicle raced southward while I rested beside the Drive, but didn't think much of it at the time. Back to hiking, it was on to Byrds Nest #4 via Neighbor Mountain Trail (on the same road as Hull School across the Drive) for a much needed break. We picked up the AT further along and headed south. Crossing the Drive just south of Beahms Gap, we went to the overlook for views. That's when I saw the smoke plume from the Smith Run fire. It was close, just beyond North Marshall, where we had hiked the previous weekend. The fire wasn't coming our way, but it did make me realize that I'd never really thought about what to do if caught in the path of a wildfire.
Pass Mountain was the final climb of the day. I recalled a viewpoint not far from the top on the north side, and found the short path to rocks with views west towards Neighbor Mountain. Our exit would be via Pass Mountain Trail. We stopped at the hut for a good spell, talking to the threesome spending the chilly night there. They'd be staying at Range View Cabin the following night. They were a friendly group, but daylight was shrinking and body chilling, so it was time to move on. Through the trees, Oventop glowed in the lowering sun and relief of Hazel Country grew in the shadows. With a fast downhill pace to keep warm, we were done by sunset. Ending in daylight again?... these hikes must not be long enough!
Pictures

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