Saturday, June 4, 2011

SNP north: Mt Marshall/AT/Bluff

When late Friday afternoon rolls around and no hike route has been devised, one of several default routes is usually chosen. So was the case Saturday, doing a now standard trek, Mount Marshall, Appalachian Trail, and Bluff Trail in the north district of Shenandoah National Park. Once considered a long day hike, the 13.4-mile Marshall/AT/Bluff circuit has grown into a 21 mile trek by starting from the Park boundary (which adds 4.4 miles), adding an out and back to Compton Peak (another 3.0 miles), and a couple tenths exploring the rock outcrops on North Marshall. The Mount Marshall Trail has good laurel patches as does North Marshall on the AT, and we'd be hiking south on the AT meeting thru-hikers, so this was an easy decision. It would be just me and Steve on this outing, arriving at the Park boundary north of Washington, VA shortly after 8am. There was a sad sight as we approached the parking area- a lame doe with two fawn. The doe was struggling to get around on three legs, a front leg injured and unable to put weight on it.
The weather was pleasant, temperatures in the 70's and low dew point, though the humidity would be on the rise as the day progressed. The hike began with the nearly thousand foot ascent to Thorofare Gap between North Marshall and The Peak. There were several fine stands of mountain laurel in full display along here, the taller "tree" variety, as opposed to the shorter bush variety seen through much of Hazel Country last weekend. At Thorofare Gap, there's no hint of the old trail up The Peak; the cairn marker disappeared over a year ago, plus this isn't the time of year to go there (poison ivy anyone?).
Once past the gap, the Mount Marshall Trail remains fairly level as is traverses the east slope of North Marshall, rounding ravines and crossing several streams. It's along these ravines that the best laurel stands are found, and being the taller variety, produces a tunnel effect. In my many hikes here, this is the first time capturing laurel at peak. Very nice! With the quality trail, we completed the 5.7 miles segment in a little over two hours, meeting no other hikers.
From Jenkins Gap, the burn area on the south slope of Compton was visible as a patch of bare brown trees. We had hiked through there a couple weeks after the February fire, and now we'd get a chance to see the new vegetation. We picked up the AT at Jenkins Gap and started the Compton climb. More laurel, then the burn area, which had new low green growth and wildflowers amidst the blackened trees. I'd brought along a bag of candy for the thru-hikers. I expected to have some left to hand out at Gravel Springs Hut, but was depleted before finishing the out and back to Compton! We met a group of thru-hikers taking a break at Compton Spring, and a few more on the way back south. Just as well, as there was nobody else at Gravel Springs Hut when we were there later in the day.
We had Compton Peak west view to ourselves, other than a lone photographer that came by as we were about to leave. It was actually rather quiet on the trails for such a nice day. Fine by me. After a break, it was back down the AT to Jenkins Gap, with a stop at Compton Spring for water and to chat with another thru-hiker. The climb south out of Jenkins Gap is a favorite. It feels like bear territory, but I don't think I've ever seen a bear through here. Crossing Skyline Drive, the climb up North Marshall continued, meeting the occasional northbounder. A little disappointment at finding closed laurel blossoms on North Marshall, but the views were fine. I scrambled to a couple rock outcrops at the point where the trail makes a switchback, where the ridges to the south open up and disappear into the haze. This is certainly my favorite spot in the north district.
On over South Marshall into Gravel Springs Gap and on to the empty shelter for a snack, water resupply, and a check of the journal. The journal was new but already had a number of entries, with frequent mention of bear sightings and Elkwallow blackberry shakes. As we headed out the Bluff Trail, we met a backpacking family headed towards the shelter. Further along we met other day hikers, and a couple tenting near the Big Devils Stairs junction. Up and down along the Bluff Trail, eventually reaching the Mount Marshall Trail, which would lead 2.2 miles back to the car.
The first 20+ miler of the year. Also the first deer tick of the year. The upcoming weekend should have nice laurel blooms at the higher elevations. That's where you'll find me.
Pictures

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