It's mountain laurel time in Shenandoah National Park! The abundant spring rains would make for a stellar display, at least that was the hope, and we were not disappointed. This hike route was designed to pass through several known abundant laurel spots in Hazel Country in the central district east side. We'd have two cars, so could cover a lot of trail. Steve and Dan would be coming from Maryland, my brother John and I coming from Virginia's Northern Neck. I awoke Saturday with a cold, but unless a fever came on, I was determined to do the Sunday hike. With the heat and car shuttle, a predawn departure was called for, meeting at the Buck Hollow trailhead on US-211 at 7:30am, then heading to the Old Rag lot in Nethers to start the hike.
The Old Rag lot was busy and filling up fast when we arrived at 8am. It must have been a (yet another) crazy day up on Old Rag. We'd be one of the few to not be there for Old Rag though. While our cars were only six miles apart, the windy hike route through Hazel Country would span 16 miles. Sixteen miles without ever touching the AT, and only a short retrace of steps to a side destination. This hike used thirteen trail segments, three being the Hazel Mountain Trail, not all in the same direction. From the Old Rag lot, we hiked up SR-600, crossed the Hughes River on the Nicholson Hollow Trail, climbed Hot-Short Mountain Trail, used Hazel Mountain Trail to get to Catlett Mountain and Catlett Spur trails, Hazel Mountain again to the Hazel River Trail, back to Hazel Mountain via White Rocks Trail, exiting via Buck Ridge and the tail end of Buck Hollow. I had a map, but didn't need it.
It was evident right off the bat that we'd hit mountain laurel at peak in the lower levels. Brilliant white and pinkish blossoms abound. It was a mountain laurel paradise! As the climb up Hot-Short progressed, there was an increasing number of closed blossoms, but they too are a pleasant sight to see. Expecting this, I kept the route low, which also kept the route very warm and humid. The "hot" in Hot-Short was. Humid too, as in saturated humid, as in sweat running down the leg and soaking the sock inside the boot humid, as in drink a gallon of water and never stop to... well, yep, humid it was. The east side always is.
Hazel Mountain Trail was used as a connector several times. After the sweat-fest climb up Hot-Short, it was a relatively flat walk to Catlett Mountain Trail. The PATC guide book calls this a "fairly level" trail, even though it's got on really steep stretch. The destination was the Hazel River Trail... so what are we doing here?!?... adding miles, that's all. Catlett Mountain, Catlett Spur, and Hazel Mountain (walking towards where we were earlier), all with mostly unopened laurel blossoms, got us over to the Hazel River Trail.
We'd seen few hikers up to this point, other than the hoards that were heading up Old Rag, but on descending Hazel River we met a number of tired looking backpackers heading up. When asked "are we near the top?", and being nowhere near it, you kind of hate having to say "no". Hazel River Trail was a bit overgrown, but not overly, and the nettles were mostly at bay. Turning left at the White Rocks Trail junction, we were soon at the Hazel River crossing. John took advice from a couple hikers we had just met and traversed a downed tree, Steve and Dan rock-hopped, and I de-booted and crossed sock-footed. We'd take a long break here before the steep climb to the White Rocks ridge line. The tall dead hemlock by the river is now down, and made for good sitting. I used the Steri-Pen a couple times, having to replace the batteries first. Always carry spare batteries!
The trail to ridge line takes no prisoners- up, up, up. A slight S-curve to it, otherwise a straight shot. The climb is not done once on ridge line though, as the trail climbs and descends a series of knobs. At the first knob, rocks on the north side provide fine views, but it's the rocks a couple knobs further along that provide the best views and scrambling opportunity. It's easy to pass right by these, so be looking for them on the south side of the trail. The mountain laurel through here was in full display, and though hot in the sun, it was fun playing on the rocks.
Shortly past the rocks comes the steep stepped side trail to a small waterfall and tiny cave. Nearly 200' down, it's well worth it- cool and refreshing. It felt over ten degrees cooler by the waterfall, and at the back of the cave, a refreshingly cool moist breeze could be felt sifting through damp cracks. Of course, what goes down must go up, and again we were back on White Rocks Trail in the heat and humidity. The slope of the climb lessens, and we made good time to the Hazel Mountain Trail junction.
Our third time on Hazel Mountain Trail, it was a steady climb to our exit route, Buck Hollow via Buck Ridge. I knew the mountain laurel on Buck Ridge would be in bloom, the rest was a bonus. Buck Ridge did not disappoint, as it was the mountain laurel paradise. This was all downhill, not something my knee cares for, but it was nice to not be battling the heat and humidity. Amidst the laurel, there were brief hazy views of Marys Rock and Oventop. I was careful with the knee on the very steep stepped descent off Buck Ridge, the marvelous work PATC did installing those logs never ceases to amaze me. Before those logs, descending Buck Ridge was never a consideration.
We arrived at the Thornton River crossing on Buck Hollow to find that the PATC stepping boulders had been dislodged by the recent heavy rains and flooding. The mountain streams and rivers must have been something to see during that period. From the looks of it, the boulders were undermined by the current, shifting them somewhat. Steve trusted one wet tilted boulder enough to go for it, and made it across. Dan jumped (not hopped, jumped) across successfully via a dry boulder (he can do that, his knees work). Since the hike was essentially over, I kept the boots on and waded through the refreshing current, water coming to a few inches above the knee (about two feet deep). John put on neoprene booties and waded as well. A family had gathered, intending to venture up the trail a bit, but the difficult crossing turned them away (certainly after watching us cross). The boulders aren't too far out of place, and I greatly appreciate and know the effort PATC undertook placing them there. Hopefully it won't be too difficult a job to reposition them.
Hiking with a cold is not a lot of fun, especially in the heat. A wise one would probably have just stayed home, but miss the first big mountain laurel display of the season?... no way! No bears, no deer, just a squirrel or two and assorted insects (including ticks, but so far no deer tick). One has to wonder though, amidst all those blossoms, where are the bees?
Pictures
The Old Rag lot was busy and filling up fast when we arrived at 8am. It must have been a (yet another) crazy day up on Old Rag. We'd be one of the few to not be there for Old Rag though. While our cars were only six miles apart, the windy hike route through Hazel Country would span 16 miles. Sixteen miles without ever touching the AT, and only a short retrace of steps to a side destination. This hike used thirteen trail segments, three being the Hazel Mountain Trail, not all in the same direction. From the Old Rag lot, we hiked up SR-600, crossed the Hughes River on the Nicholson Hollow Trail, climbed Hot-Short Mountain Trail, used Hazel Mountain Trail to get to Catlett Mountain and Catlett Spur trails, Hazel Mountain again to the Hazel River Trail, back to Hazel Mountain via White Rocks Trail, exiting via Buck Ridge and the tail end of Buck Hollow. I had a map, but didn't need it.
It was evident right off the bat that we'd hit mountain laurel at peak in the lower levels. Brilliant white and pinkish blossoms abound. It was a mountain laurel paradise! As the climb up Hot-Short progressed, there was an increasing number of closed blossoms, but they too are a pleasant sight to see. Expecting this, I kept the route low, which also kept the route very warm and humid. The "hot" in Hot-Short was. Humid too, as in saturated humid, as in sweat running down the leg and soaking the sock inside the boot humid, as in drink a gallon of water and never stop to... well, yep, humid it was. The east side always is.
Hazel Mountain Trail was used as a connector several times. After the sweat-fest climb up Hot-Short, it was a relatively flat walk to Catlett Mountain Trail. The PATC guide book calls this a "fairly level" trail, even though it's got on really steep stretch. The destination was the Hazel River Trail... so what are we doing here?!?... adding miles, that's all. Catlett Mountain, Catlett Spur, and Hazel Mountain (walking towards where we were earlier), all with mostly unopened laurel blossoms, got us over to the Hazel River Trail.
We'd seen few hikers up to this point, other than the hoards that were heading up Old Rag, but on descending Hazel River we met a number of tired looking backpackers heading up. When asked "are we near the top?", and being nowhere near it, you kind of hate having to say "no". Hazel River Trail was a bit overgrown, but not overly, and the nettles were mostly at bay. Turning left at the White Rocks Trail junction, we were soon at the Hazel River crossing. John took advice from a couple hikers we had just met and traversed a downed tree, Steve and Dan rock-hopped, and I de-booted and crossed sock-footed. We'd take a long break here before the steep climb to the White Rocks ridge line. The tall dead hemlock by the river is now down, and made for good sitting. I used the Steri-Pen a couple times, having to replace the batteries first. Always carry spare batteries!
The trail to ridge line takes no prisoners- up, up, up. A slight S-curve to it, otherwise a straight shot. The climb is not done once on ridge line though, as the trail climbs and descends a series of knobs. At the first knob, rocks on the north side provide fine views, but it's the rocks a couple knobs further along that provide the best views and scrambling opportunity. It's easy to pass right by these, so be looking for them on the south side of the trail. The mountain laurel through here was in full display, and though hot in the sun, it was fun playing on the rocks.
Shortly past the rocks comes the steep stepped side trail to a small waterfall and tiny cave. Nearly 200' down, it's well worth it- cool and refreshing. It felt over ten degrees cooler by the waterfall, and at the back of the cave, a refreshingly cool moist breeze could be felt sifting through damp cracks. Of course, what goes down must go up, and again we were back on White Rocks Trail in the heat and humidity. The slope of the climb lessens, and we made good time to the Hazel Mountain Trail junction.
Our third time on Hazel Mountain Trail, it was a steady climb to our exit route, Buck Hollow via Buck Ridge. I knew the mountain laurel on Buck Ridge would be in bloom, the rest was a bonus. Buck Ridge did not disappoint, as it was the mountain laurel paradise. This was all downhill, not something my knee cares for, but it was nice to not be battling the heat and humidity. Amidst the laurel, there were brief hazy views of Marys Rock and Oventop. I was careful with the knee on the very steep stepped descent off Buck Ridge, the marvelous work PATC did installing those logs never ceases to amaze me. Before those logs, descending Buck Ridge was never a consideration.
We arrived at the Thornton River crossing on Buck Hollow to find that the PATC stepping boulders had been dislodged by the recent heavy rains and flooding. The mountain streams and rivers must have been something to see during that period. From the looks of it, the boulders were undermined by the current, shifting them somewhat. Steve trusted one wet tilted boulder enough to go for it, and made it across. Dan jumped (not hopped, jumped) across successfully via a dry boulder (he can do that, his knees work). Since the hike was essentially over, I kept the boots on and waded through the refreshing current, water coming to a few inches above the knee (about two feet deep). John put on neoprene booties and waded as well. A family had gathered, intending to venture up the trail a bit, but the difficult crossing turned them away (certainly after watching us cross). The boulders aren't too far out of place, and I greatly appreciate and know the effort PATC undertook placing them there. Hopefully it won't be too difficult a job to reposition them.
Hiking with a cold is not a lot of fun, especially in the heat. A wise one would probably have just stayed home, but miss the first big mountain laurel display of the season?... no way! No bears, no deer, just a squirrel or two and assorted insects (including ticks, but so far no deer tick). One has to wonder though, amidst all those blossoms, where are the bees?
