Saturday, September 17, 2011

SNP north: Mt Marshall/Bluff/AT

After a lengthy break from hiking, it was time to get back out there and work the legs. After two months down due to a combination of weather and ailments, the motivation factor was fading. No summer of fall hiking trip this year, but a winter one, yes!, to Big Bend National Park in far south Texas in December, so time to start preparing for that. Saturday was shaping up to be a fine day. Early forecasts called for crisp and sunny. As Saturday rolled around, it had evolved into damp and cool, but certainly not a wash out.
At 13.5 miles, this would be a relatively short hike. It would also be a late start, hitting the road at 8am and on the trail soon after 10am. This is the new me. The hike would be a classic circuit, Mount Marshall, Bluff, and Appalachian trails, starting from Jenkins Gap on Skyline Drive in the North District. Cool air and light rain on the drive in from Front Royal made for dramatic low clouds, so fellow hiker Steve and I stopped at a couple overlooks along the way.
48 degrees with light rain to start the hike. Still summer by the calendar, but I had layers and thin gloves to start. I can't recall the last time we hiked this circuit clockwise... instead of having the sizable climb out of Jenkins Gap to North Marshall, the uphill would be mostly on the Bluff Trail and South Marshall, with the relatively flat Mount Marshall Trail to start. First up were two hikers at the Mount Marshall trailhead on Skyline Drive asking where the AT was. I pointed them towards Jenkins Gap. We'd see them later at Gravel Springs Hut, as they were searching for the Bluff Trail.
The light rain ended a couple miles in on the Mount Marshall Trail. It was very peaceful hiking in light rain, especially knowing it would likely soon end. The high moisture brought out the scent of the forest. Streams were lower than expected; I suppose the heaviest rains of late had been more to the east, and it had been dry for a week or so. It was quiet on the trails, with no sign of wildlife and only a few hikers. The Mount Marshall trek was uneventful, and we were soon climbing the south slope of North Marshall on the Bluff Trail, en route to Gravel Springs Gap. The stream to Big Devils Stairs was not much more than a trickle. Slippery wet rocks did keep our attention. Our first rest break was at Gravel Springs Hut.
A PATC trail crew working on the spur trail to the AT was having a lunch break when we arrived, but were back to work soon after (that trail looks good!). I asked about damage from the recent storms. A "here and there" response. Our trail had been clear to here, but later on the AT there were a few minor obstacles. We had our lunch and read through the hut journal. The most recent entries were from southbounders.
Up to the AT, then across the Drive for the pleasant climb of South Marshall. We usually pass on the South Marshall views (after having just been on North Marshall), but traveling this direction we stopped to take in the views from South Marshall (which are quite nice, actually). There were still plenty of low clouds under a mid-level overcast, creating rather dramatic views south and west. Although a somewhat gloomy day, there was plenty of color along the trail, yellow (goldenrod and woodland sunflower) and purple (um?) flowers, red mountain ash berries, and that bright orange fungus. A hint of color in several water stressed trees showed a sign of things to come, but not sure how good the color will be this year.
My secret spot on North Marshall was heavily occupied, but I found solitude on the next outcrop down. After a short stay there, it was back on the AT to the primary view on North Marshall. From here, it was mostly downhill back to Jenkins Gap. Last year at this time there were ripe apples on and along the AT north of Jenkins Gap to the Drive crossing, but no trace of them this year.
So what has happened to me? While I did hike 18 miles a week after that doomed hike July 9th, my "good" knee has gotten steadily worse, patellofemoral pain syndrome and compartment syndrome. Currently having PT to strengthen hams and quads, but outlook is rather gloomy. With the hot humid conditions in August and a string of rainy weekends, I can't say I've missed hiking all that much. Now I've gone soft... but Big Bend is around the corner, and I need to pick myself up for that.
Pictures