Saturday, May 21, 2011

SNP south: Doomsday Hike

Yes, the world was to end on Saturday (the whole Rapture and "End Of Days" thing, you know), so what better place to be than in Shenandoah National Park? It's been slow getting up to speed this year- if not the weather then bad knees. "Osseous stress reaction" is the MRI diagnosis for what was my good knee, high grade chondromalacia patella, good old arthritis, which comes as no surprise. I don't use it, it hurts; I use it, it feels better but just damages it more. A downward spiral indeed. Doomsday, bah!
An early start is needed for a south district hike, coming from the Maryland 'burbs. Since when is 6am early? Heck, the sun was already up when fellow hiker Steve came by to get me. My brother John would be coming from the Virginia Northern Neck. The hike route was about as simple as it gets... Appalachian Trail from Swift Run Gap south to Loft Mountain, then down Frazier Discovery Trail to Loft Mountain Wayside. A favorite segment of the AT, thru-hiker encounters, and a blackberry shake to end the hike, how nice is that?! What could be better... a bear sighting, perhaps?
After a long shuttle behind a slow Park vehicle, we were on the trail at 9:30am. First up was the moderate climb out of Swift Run Gap followed by the longer haul up Hightop. I was hauling something extra, a bag of candy for the thru-hikers. "Snickers Peanut Butter Squared" is my trail magic of choice, and it didn't take long to find a thru-hiker, "Calculator", dropping down to Swift Run Gap. The thru-hikers we met had left Springer in early to mid March, had a rough time in the Smokies, and were drying out from a week of rain.
Spring has finally made it to the higher points. Things were just starting to green up on Robertson two weeks ago, but now the high points are greening up fast. Lush green everywhere, a delight to see after what seemed a long cold winter. Wildflowers abound. Flower-lined trail much of the way, little white flowers that defy camera focus, and ample violets. Mountain laurel about to bloom, surely somewhere along our route we'd find an open blossom. The view atop Hightop was occupied upon arrival, but waited them out, and the spot opened as Steve and John arrived. Great views from here- Beldor Ridge, Rocky Mount, even Trayfoot and Massanutten in the distance. A short break followed at Hightop Hut, where there were three thru-hikers about to press on. I gave each candy.
For the next seven miles it's gap-to-gap hiking- Smith Roach, Powell, Simmons, and Pinefield. There's a great view down Bacon Hollow on the climb out of Powell Gap. At the top of the climb on an arm of Flattop, new-agey wind music was coming from nearby to the south. The AT is along the Park boundary here, with houses just a couple hundred feet from the trail. It's not remote, but sure feels it.
The next stop was Pinefield Hut, where a tired looking thru-hiker was getting water. He perked up at the offer of candy (I gave him two). I had been hiking out ahead, so had plenty of time to get acquainted with the hoards of black flies. I think they're getting worse each year. The mountain laurel looked oh so close to blooming on the climb out of Pinefield Gap. If there was any to be found, it was between here and Ivy Creek. I met another thru-hiker at Ivy Creek Overlook and dispensed more candy. I don't think any of the thru-hikers I met knew about the famous Shenandoah wayside blackberry shakes. I did my part to inform them. Seems these May thru-hikers are more concerned about putting on the miles, while the June thru-hikers are more relaxed.
Next up, my favorite spot on the AT in Shenandoah, the small piney vista above Rockytop Overlook. Not far from Skyline Drive at all (in fact the Drive is in view), but the views west are supreme- Rocky and Brown Mountains, Rockytop, Patterson Ridge, Great North Mountain (when the visibility allows), all in a cozy pine setting. I refer to it as "my spot".
Finally, just beyond, mountain laurel in bloom! One lone bloom. We photographed the heck out of it. A short time earlier we had been told of a bear down the trail. That almost always means no bear for us to see, as it's long gone. Plus, Steve is convinced he's bear repellent, and in a prolonged bear drought. Well, lo and behold!... there just off trail was a good-sized bear! It wasn't running away, and then I quickly determined why- it was a mother bear with at least two cubs, one of which was in a tree. While most will make noise in this situation, I (we) approached rather stealthily, until that is, Steve took a tumble while fetching his camera. That got momma bears attention, and she ambled further off trail over a ridge top. Still, all got a decent view, and Steve's bear drought has finally ended.
With all the recent rain, Ivy Creek was as pretty as I've seen, and I got a nice long exposure shot. Beyond Ivy Creek came the long climb of Loft Mountain, our final climb of the day. Steve was running low on fuel and the day was getting long. Would we reach Loft Mountain Wayside in time to get a blackberry shake? A lone hiker passed us (that's rare) but I kept up with him a bit. We were all trying to figure out what the white flowers that lined the trail were called. I didn't get the hikers name, but he was quite knowledgeable of the Park's trails. I was passed earlier in the hike by a trail runner. Over the course of the hike we encountered three trail runners. That's pretty unusual.
The views from the open rocks on Loft Mountain at the AT junction with the Frazier Discovery Trail are among the best the Park has to offer, with Hightop off in the distance to the northeast (we were there?) to the numerous south district peaks to the west. So close to a big campground, and we were the only ones here. A family with two young kids eventually showed up. It surprises me to find this fine place empty more often than not. Sure, it takes a bit of exertion to complete the Frazier circuit, but the views at the top are certainly worth it (not to mention the massive overhanging rock on the north side of the loop).
We arrived at Loft Mountain Wayside shortly after 5:30pm. They close at 6pm, but prior experience tells me the grill shuts down before closing time. We had made it on time! A blackberry shake outdoors as the crowds thinned. A fine ending to the Doomsday Hike.
Pictures

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