Risking an overload of hiker activity due to Shenandoah's 75th anniversary celebration this past Saturday, I set out on a 20 miler with co-hikers John and Steve not far from the thick of things in the middle of the central district. The hike began around 8:30am at the Graves Mill trailhead on the east side, route 662 from Wolftown. First up, an easy walk along the Rapidan River on the Graves Mill Trail, then up along the Staunton River on the Staunton River Trail. The weather was nice and the "rivers" gently flowing.
The two crossings of the Staunton River were easy with the low water conditions. We took the standard shot of the slab-pile up above the first crossing. The upper portion of the Staunton River Trail had a wild look to it, a bit overgrown, with nettles encroaching on the trail, pretty standard for summer. Not so bad as to warrant attaching the pants legs. The trail is somewhat shorter than the trail markers indicate, at about 3.8 miles.
Enjoying the lack of a blazing sun (the forecast called for "mostly sunny"), we ambled up Fork Mountain Road to The Sag. Butterflies ahead on the road were staying just out of camera range, repeatedly taking off and landing further up the road as we approached. At "The Sag", the short version of this hike would go left and take Jones Mountain Trail to Cat Knob. I've done that segment of Jones Mountain Trail only once! The longer versions involve descending to Laurel Prong via the Fork Mountain Trail, and old switchbacked road. Free of leaves (seemingly overly so), this was an easy descent. I've waded knee deep in leaves here in late autumn. Wide Laurel Prong was an easy crossing on small rocks. Our first encounter of other hikers was at the crossing. A short distance further and we were on the Laurel Prong Trail. The moderate version of this hike would be to take Laurel Prong to Cat Knob, but this was the long route, so right we went, down to to Camp Hoover.
Camp Hoover was open for ranger led tours, and there was slightly more activity here than usual, surely a spillover from Big Meadows a couple miles up trail. I had stumbled upon here once before as a tour began and joined in. This time we were here just for a water, food, and a rest break. On the climb out to Milam Gap, we met only three sets of hikers; the fear of hiker overload unwarranted. It was still early, and I suspect things got busier as the day progressed. Big Rock Falls was pretty as always, and the Mill Prong trails a pleasant and quiet walk. I expected to hear the activity at Big Meadows from Milam Gap, but I forgot that Big Meadows was over a mile away. The Drive was busier, perhaps.
Picking up the AT at Milam Gap, we headed south, climbing Hazeltop. This stretch has what I call the "straightaway", a nearly quarter mile straight line of sight segment of the AT. I zoomed on ahead so I could get pictures at the far end as John and Steve came into view. Just shy of the summit, a short side trail leads to nice views west. Instead of the forecast sun, the sky remained overcast, keeping temperatures comfortable.
The mile stretch of Laurel Prong between the AT and Cat Knob is not a particular favorite of mine, rocky and too many pointless ups and downs (PUDs), but it serves as a frequent connector. The Cat Knob Trail doesn't mess with that- it's a steep one, gaining just under 500 feet in a half mile. On the climb, I found some lost notes from a scout group that had passed through here earlier in the day. The notes indicated an overnight at Jones Mountain Cabin, so they were ahead on the Jones Mountain Trail. It also indicated they'd be at the cabin for lunch, so were hopefully well ahead. I pocketed the notes just in case I caught up with them (but hoping not to).
It was a quiet and peaceful walk out the Jones Mountain Trail. I had somehow pulled ahead and was feeling the solitude. This is the place for that. The trail meanders along the ridge of Jones Mountain, hitting a couple knobs before getting to the big payoff, Bear Church Rock. Ahead at the second knob I heard voices... lots of them; I had caught up with the scout group. They were on top of the second knob wondering where Bear Church Rock was hiding. I assured them it was still further along (it's always further out than one might expect), down from the knob. I led the way. I'd better be right! Just as I started to doubt myself, the short laurel-shrouded spur to Bear Church Rock appeared. There was plenty of room for all, and I was unexpectedly excited to see the look of wonder on their faces and hear their exclamations upon being at Bear Church Rock for the first time. It is an awesome place! John and Steve arrived shortly, and all were jovial. The scout group soon left, and Bear Church Rock was as I almost always find it, just it and the group I'm with.
From Bear Church Rock, it was nowhere but down, unfriendly to the knees, but on quality trail and old road. Down Jones Mountain Trail to the Staunton River, then back out Staunton River Trail and Graves Mill Trail. As the old road beside the Staunton River suddenly disappears, I recalled the massive flooding of exactly 16 years ago that reshaped this area. Time (and PATC) has healed old wounds.
Pictures
The two crossings of the Staunton River were easy with the low water conditions. We took the standard shot of the slab-pile up above the first crossing. The upper portion of the Staunton River Trail had a wild look to it, a bit overgrown, with nettles encroaching on the trail, pretty standard for summer. Not so bad as to warrant attaching the pants legs. The trail is somewhat shorter than the trail markers indicate, at about 3.8 miles.
Enjoying the lack of a blazing sun (the forecast called for "mostly sunny"), we ambled up Fork Mountain Road to The Sag. Butterflies ahead on the road were staying just out of camera range, repeatedly taking off and landing further up the road as we approached. At "The Sag", the short version of this hike would go left and take Jones Mountain Trail to Cat Knob. I've done that segment of Jones Mountain Trail only once! The longer versions involve descending to Laurel Prong via the Fork Mountain Trail, and old switchbacked road. Free of leaves (seemingly overly so), this was an easy descent. I've waded knee deep in leaves here in late autumn. Wide Laurel Prong was an easy crossing on small rocks. Our first encounter of other hikers was at the crossing. A short distance further and we were on the Laurel Prong Trail. The moderate version of this hike would be to take Laurel Prong to Cat Knob, but this was the long route, so right we went, down to to Camp Hoover.
Camp Hoover was open for ranger led tours, and there was slightly more activity here than usual, surely a spillover from Big Meadows a couple miles up trail. I had stumbled upon here once before as a tour began and joined in. This time we were here just for a water, food, and a rest break. On the climb out to Milam Gap, we met only three sets of hikers; the fear of hiker overload unwarranted. It was still early, and I suspect things got busier as the day progressed. Big Rock Falls was pretty as always, and the Mill Prong trails a pleasant and quiet walk. I expected to hear the activity at Big Meadows from Milam Gap, but I forgot that Big Meadows was over a mile away. The Drive was busier, perhaps.
Picking up the AT at Milam Gap, we headed south, climbing Hazeltop. This stretch has what I call the "straightaway", a nearly quarter mile straight line of sight segment of the AT. I zoomed on ahead so I could get pictures at the far end as John and Steve came into view. Just shy of the summit, a short side trail leads to nice views west. Instead of the forecast sun, the sky remained overcast, keeping temperatures comfortable.
The mile stretch of Laurel Prong between the AT and Cat Knob is not a particular favorite of mine, rocky and too many pointless ups and downs (PUDs), but it serves as a frequent connector. The Cat Knob Trail doesn't mess with that- it's a steep one, gaining just under 500 feet in a half mile. On the climb, I found some lost notes from a scout group that had passed through here earlier in the day. The notes indicated an overnight at Jones Mountain Cabin, so they were ahead on the Jones Mountain Trail. It also indicated they'd be at the cabin for lunch, so were hopefully well ahead. I pocketed the notes just in case I caught up with them (but hoping not to).
It was a quiet and peaceful walk out the Jones Mountain Trail. I had somehow pulled ahead and was feeling the solitude. This is the place for that. The trail meanders along the ridge of Jones Mountain, hitting a couple knobs before getting to the big payoff, Bear Church Rock. Ahead at the second knob I heard voices... lots of them; I had caught up with the scout group. They were on top of the second knob wondering where Bear Church Rock was hiding. I assured them it was still further along (it's always further out than one might expect), down from the knob. I led the way. I'd better be right! Just as I started to doubt myself, the short laurel-shrouded spur to Bear Church Rock appeared. There was plenty of room for all, and I was unexpectedly excited to see the look of wonder on their faces and hear their exclamations upon being at Bear Church Rock for the first time. It is an awesome place! John and Steve arrived shortly, and all were jovial. The scout group soon left, and Bear Church Rock was as I almost always find it, just it and the group I'm with.
From Bear Church Rock, it was nowhere but down, unfriendly to the knees, but on quality trail and old road. Down Jones Mountain Trail to the Staunton River, then back out Staunton River Trail and Graves Mill Trail. As the old road beside the Staunton River suddenly disappears, I recalled the massive flooding of exactly 16 years ago that reshaped this area. Time (and PATC) has healed old wounds.
Pictures
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