I borrowed the title from Donn Ahern's PATC forum hike report. So far south in the south district of Shenandoah National Park that you aren't really in the Park, at least when on the AT. This hike would be one of those rare linear hikes, using two vehicles. I suspected it might be a busy time in the Park this past weekend, picture perfect weather, so decided to not bother seeking a secluded route- there might not be one. A simple AT trek this would be, a 20 miler from Blackrock parking south to McCormick Gap including an out-and-back to Turk Mountain, accumulating 4600 feet of elevation along the way. The weather was ideal- temperature in the 60's, dew point near 40, enough breeze but not too much, and nearly unlimited visibility. The line of cars at the Rockfish Gap entrance station at 9am indicated that it would be a busy Park day. The ranger there commented on how much busier it was than the day before (Saturday, an equally perfect day as Donn described).
My brother John and friend Steve were my fellow hikers. This was an "AT encore" hike. First up was Blackrock, the primary extra-easy destination to outstanding views in the south district. Being so easy one might suspect it's crowded there, but most often not; car people just don't venture very far from the overlooks. I've never felt crowded at Blackrock, and there was only a handful of hikers here. Trayfoot looms to the west, with the west-side peaks of the south district laid out in stunning relief nortward. The south end of Massanutten, 12 miles distant across Shenandoah Valley, stood out crystal clear as if one could reach out and touch it. During this hike, peaks 45 miles distant were visible.
Next stop was a short side trip to Moormans River Overlook on Skyline Drive (had to get an east view in there somewhere), with views of Bucks Elbow Mountain, Pond Ridge, Pasture Fence Mountain, and the Charlottesville Reservoir below. On the AT, we passed a trail notice of problem bears near Wildcat Ridge. I had heard mention of that last weekend, but know no specifics.
Turk Gap parking was full, with cars spilling out along the Drive... not a good sign, as Turk Mountain was our next stop. Lots 'o folk out on Turk Mountain. It was as busy as I've ever seen it (OK, last time there was post-sunset in December), but wow, Turk Mountain crowded? More folks were leaving than arriving, so for most of our summit stay it wasn't bad at all. I wanted to scramble some, but a bit risky and still a lot of hiking to do. Someday, maybe. Views were surperb.
The AT crosses the Drive at Sawmill Run Overlook, which is where we had cached water during the morning shuttle. Our somewhat hidden cache was still there, a good thing, as there was little if any water along the route. I've had cached water disappear during a hike (I mark it with date and intent so that it won't be thought of as litter if found). Sawmill Run Overlook is also a great spot for a break, great views, one of my favorite overlooks in the Park. Later, near Jarman Gap, we passed the only potential water sources on this route. One spring was dry and the other a very slow drip. It's very dry out there and getting drier each day.
"South of the South" as Donn called it- south of Jarman Gap, where the AT is on "Appalachian Trail Park" land, not in SNP. The climb up Calf Mountain was difficult, a thousand footer late in a long hike is always difficult. There was a group of eight to ten young folk coming down, some wearing flip-flops. That seemed a strange place to see them. Just another indicator of how busy it was this day. No stop at Calf Mountain Shelter (yep, shelter, not hut, though same thing- just not in SNP). The highlight here is not Calf Mountain, but Little Calf Mountain a bit further south, where an unmarked trail leads to the "summit" meadow. It's not marked because it's not in SNP. There was thistle and sumac about, and excellent views south and west to near and distant peaks in GWNF. Apple trees remain from an old orchard. There were red apple trees and green apple trees. Steve tried one of the red apples. Tart but not bad. Little Calf is a pretty easy out and back from Beagle Gap.
The AT crosses the Drive at Beagle Gap. The large open field here has a unique look and feel. Donn's description is dead-on. The field is overgrown with tall grasses and milkweed, and apple trees are scattered about the edges. There were several hikers exploring the area. Low angle sunlight glistened on the windswept milkweed on the south side as we began the final climb of the hike, up to Bear Den Mountain.
I just had to revisit Bear Den Mountain, where there are tractor seats embedded in the ground beside the trail (at the tower installation). I thought there were views here, and maybe there were (last visited in 2004), but it's now quite overgrown. The seats remain, and are often seen in thru-hiker's pictures. What's the story behind them? Interesting... the USGS map actually has "den" marked on Bear Den Mountain. I did hear a bear off in the woods shortly before McCormick Gap.
Sunset... missed it by less than a minute at Calf Mountain Overlook, but post-sunset has the best color anyway. Yep, that is a prime sunset spot. Back at Blackrock parking, a couple was returning from having watched sunset at Blackrock. They were staying at Loft Mountain campground. "Where's a good place to catch sunrise?" they asked. Boy, were they asking the right guy! My brain froze, but I came up with Ivy Creek Overlook. AT/Frazier junction? Maybe, but it may face too much to the north for this time of year. I know there are several spots along the AT near the campground for first light, but no specifics. They were more interested in hiking to a spot for sunrise (my kind of people!). Bearfence perhaps, unless Bluff Mountain blocks the horizon. Come to think of it, most of my sunrises have been at overlooks I've hiked to. There are a number of good hiking destinations for sunset but not so many for sunrise (Hawksbill and Marys Rock are excellent for both). I gotta get back out there for a sunrise. Someday, definitely.
Pictures
My brother John and friend Steve were my fellow hikers. This was an "AT encore" hike. First up was Blackrock, the primary extra-easy destination to outstanding views in the south district. Being so easy one might suspect it's crowded there, but most often not; car people just don't venture very far from the overlooks. I've never felt crowded at Blackrock, and there was only a handful of hikers here. Trayfoot looms to the west, with the west-side peaks of the south district laid out in stunning relief nortward. The south end of Massanutten, 12 miles distant across Shenandoah Valley, stood out crystal clear as if one could reach out and touch it. During this hike, peaks 45 miles distant were visible.
Next stop was a short side trip to Moormans River Overlook on Skyline Drive (had to get an east view in there somewhere), with views of Bucks Elbow Mountain, Pond Ridge, Pasture Fence Mountain, and the Charlottesville Reservoir below. On the AT, we passed a trail notice of problem bears near Wildcat Ridge. I had heard mention of that last weekend, but know no specifics.
Turk Gap parking was full, with cars spilling out along the Drive... not a good sign, as Turk Mountain was our next stop. Lots 'o folk out on Turk Mountain. It was as busy as I've ever seen it (OK, last time there was post-sunset in December), but wow, Turk Mountain crowded? More folks were leaving than arriving, so for most of our summit stay it wasn't bad at all. I wanted to scramble some, but a bit risky and still a lot of hiking to do. Someday, maybe. Views were surperb.
The AT crosses the Drive at Sawmill Run Overlook, which is where we had cached water during the morning shuttle. Our somewhat hidden cache was still there, a good thing, as there was little if any water along the route. I've had cached water disappear during a hike (I mark it with date and intent so that it won't be thought of as litter if found). Sawmill Run Overlook is also a great spot for a break, great views, one of my favorite overlooks in the Park. Later, near Jarman Gap, we passed the only potential water sources on this route. One spring was dry and the other a very slow drip. It's very dry out there and getting drier each day.
"South of the South" as Donn called it- south of Jarman Gap, where the AT is on "Appalachian Trail Park" land, not in SNP. The climb up Calf Mountain was difficult, a thousand footer late in a long hike is always difficult. There was a group of eight to ten young folk coming down, some wearing flip-flops. That seemed a strange place to see them. Just another indicator of how busy it was this day. No stop at Calf Mountain Shelter (yep, shelter, not hut, though same thing- just not in SNP). The highlight here is not Calf Mountain, but Little Calf Mountain a bit further south, where an unmarked trail leads to the "summit" meadow. It's not marked because it's not in SNP. There was thistle and sumac about, and excellent views south and west to near and distant peaks in GWNF. Apple trees remain from an old orchard. There were red apple trees and green apple trees. Steve tried one of the red apples. Tart but not bad. Little Calf is a pretty easy out and back from Beagle Gap.
The AT crosses the Drive at Beagle Gap. The large open field here has a unique look and feel. Donn's description is dead-on. The field is overgrown with tall grasses and milkweed, and apple trees are scattered about the edges. There were several hikers exploring the area. Low angle sunlight glistened on the windswept milkweed on the south side as we began the final climb of the hike, up to Bear Den Mountain.
I just had to revisit Bear Den Mountain, where there are tractor seats embedded in the ground beside the trail (at the tower installation). I thought there were views here, and maybe there were (last visited in 2004), but it's now quite overgrown. The seats remain, and are often seen in thru-hiker's pictures. What's the story behind them? Interesting... the USGS map actually has "den" marked on Bear Den Mountain. I did hear a bear off in the woods shortly before McCormick Gap.
Sunset... missed it by less than a minute at Calf Mountain Overlook, but post-sunset has the best color anyway. Yep, that is a prime sunset spot. Back at Blackrock parking, a couple was returning from having watched sunset at Blackrock. They were staying at Loft Mountain campground. "Where's a good place to catch sunrise?" they asked. Boy, were they asking the right guy! My brain froze, but I came up with Ivy Creek Overlook. AT/Frazier junction? Maybe, but it may face too much to the north for this time of year. I know there are several spots along the AT near the campground for first light, but no specifics. They were more interested in hiking to a spot for sunrise (my kind of people!). Bearfence perhaps, unless Bluff Mountain blocks the horizon. Come to think of it, most of my sunrises have been at overlooks I've hiked to. There are a number of good hiking destinations for sunset but not so many for sunrise (Hawksbill and Marys Rock are excellent for both). I gotta get back out there for a sunrise. Someday, definitely.
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