Saturday, September 11, 2010

SNP central: Bearfence, Pocosin Hollow, Conway River

Crossing the dry Conway River on the the drive in to Swift Run Gap had me worried that maybe I wasn't carrying enough water for the upcoming hike. The Conway can't be dry, it drains too large an area, and I intended to resupply from it mid-hike. As it turned out, there was water in the Conway, so farming must be taking from it by the time it reaches Wolftown-Hood road. Taking advantage of a bad situation, the drought, it's time to hike those trails normally avoided due to difficult crossings or fords. I had hiked Pocosin Hollow only once, during high water, and the difficult stream crossings made for a rather unpleasant hike, and I've never been a big fan of challenging crossings. This would be a much more pleasant experience.
Hitting the trail shortly after 9am, fellow hiker Steve and I were headed south from Bootens Gap on the Appalachian Trail, Bearfence as the first destination. We've learned it's easier to do a rock scramble with fresh legs. The day was cool and dry with a decent breeze and excellent visibility under mostly sunny skies. It would remain sunny and pleasant for most of the hike, with clouds streaming in during the late afternoon. Bearfence, as always, was great. Only a couple other hikers there, but were not completing the scramble due to fear of heights. We'd see them a bit later on the non-exposed loop trail.
A stop at Bearfence Hut followed. I read through the fairly new journal there. Seems the majority overnighting here see or hear a bear. We were soon back on the AT, with a stop at Lewis Mountain campground to stock up on water in case the Conway was dry. This is the campground to stay in for relative peace and quiet. The AT eventually led us to Pocosin fire road, which we'd follow down to the Pocosin Hollow Trail. Lots of goldenrod about attracting butterflies and a photographer. Down the fire road a bit we spotted what at first looked like a dog... no, it's a small bear! Finally, a real bear, not just the glimpse of the tail end of one or hearing one bustling away through the brush. The little guy paused just long enough for me to snap a picture. Yea!
It was damp the only other time on Pocosin Hollow. Every rock was a potential disaster. I'd take a good face plant on a slippery rock that looked dry, and every stream crossing made my knees shake. This time was much different. The trail was very dry. Low vegetation is wilting, the fern is turning yellow, and trees are dropping leaves. The crunching of leaves underfoot would warn any other bear in the area of our presence. No other hikers about. Pocosin Hollow had water in it, enough to make it right pretty. The Pocosin Hollow segment of the hike was about as pleasant a walk as I've had. I'm adding it to my "favorites" list.
Outside the Park, Pocosin Hollow follows a private road to state route 667, Middle River Road, which parallels the Conway River. The Conway had water in it, not a lot, just a modest flow. The pools along Pocosin Hollow and the Conway River looked inviting, but I never allocate time for taking a dip. Gotta start doing that. There were small fish in the pools, and an occasional frog. We followed the road up the Conway to its end, where the Conway River Trail follows a rocky old road through the Rapidan WMA. I had thought about venturing up Devils Ditch, but will save that for some later time. We had a hefty climb ahead- 2200 feet back to Bootens Gap. After several easy crossings of the Conway (which are usually fords), the trail joins the Conway River Road, a drivable (with high clearance) road in the RWMA, with several camp sites beside the river. There were some campers here blasting out Nirvana. The road climbs with increasing slope up to Bootens Gap, the last stretch being in SNP. It's exhausting ending a long hike with a prolonged uphill. At 17 miles and 3300 feet of elevation gain, this was one of those "easy" hikes, but it sure didn't feel like it.
Pictures

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