SNP central: Bearfence, Pocosin Hollow, Conway River

Crossing the dry Conway River on the the drive in to Swift Run Gap had me worried that maybe I wasn't carrying enough water for the upcoming hike. The Conway can't be dry, it drains too large an area, and I intended to resupply from it mid-hike. As it turned out, there was water in the Conway, so farming must be taking from it by the time it reaches Wolftown-Hood road. Taking advantage of a bad situation, the drought, it's time to hike those trails normally avoided due to difficult crossings or fords. I had hiked Pocosin Hollow only once, during high water, and the difficult stream crossings made for a rather unpleasant hike, and I've never been a big fan of challenging crossings. This would be a much more pleasant experience.
Hitting the trail shortly after 9am, fellow hiker Steve and I were headed south from Bootens Gap on the Appalachian Trail, Bearfence as the first destination. We've learned it's easier to do a rock scramble with fresh legs. The day was cool and dry with a decent breeze and excellent visibility under mostly sunny skies. It would remain sunny and pleasant for most of the hike, with clouds streaming in during the late afternoon. Bearfence, as always, was great. Only a couple other hikers there, but were not completing the scramble due to fear of heights. We'd see them a bit later on the non-exposed loop trail.
A stop at Bearfence Hut followed. I read through the fairly new journal there. Seems the majority overnighting here see or hear a bear. We were soon back on the AT, with a stop at Lewis Mountain campground to stock up on water in case the Conway was dry. This is the campground to stay in for relative peace and quiet. The AT eventually led us to Pocosin fire road, which we'd follow down to the Pocosin Hollow Trail. Lots of goldenrod about attracting butterflies and a photographer. Down the fire road a bit we spotted what at first looked like a dog... no, it's a small bear! Finally, a real bear, not just the glimpse of the tail end of one or hearing one bustling away through the brush. The little guy paused just long enough for me to snap a picture. Yea!
It was damp the only other time on Pocosin Hollow. Every rock was a potential disaster. I'd take a good face plant on a slippery rock that looked dry, and every stream crossing made my knees shake. This time was much different. The trail was very dry. Low vegetation is wilting, the fern is turning yellow, and trees are dropping leaves. The crunching of leaves underfoot would warn any other bear in the area of our presence. No other hikers about. Pocosin Hollow had water in it, enough to make it right pretty. The Pocosin Hollow segment of the hike was about as pleasant a walk as I've had. I'm adding it to my "favorites" list.
Outside the Park, Pocosin Hollow follows a private road to state route 667, Middle River Road, which parallels the Conway River. The Conway had water in it, not a lot, just a modest flow. The pools along Pocosin Hollow and the Conway River looked inviting, but I never allocate time for taking a dip. Gotta start doing that. There were small fish in the pools, and an occasional frog. We followed the road up the Conway to its end, where the Conway River Trail follows a rocky old road through the Rapidan WMA. I had thought about venturing up Devils Ditch, but will save that for some later time. We had a hefty climb ahead- 2200 feet back to Bootens Gap. After several easy crossings of the Conway (which are usually fords), the trail joins the Conway River Road, a drivable (with high clearance) road in the RWMA, with several camp sites beside the river. There were some campers here blasting out Nirvana. The road climbs with increasing slope up to Bootens Gap, the last stretch being in SNP. It's exhausting ending a long hike with a prolonged uphill. At 17 miles and 3300 feet of elevation gain, this was one of those "easy" hikes, but it sure didn't feel like it.

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SNP south district: South of the South

I borrowed the title from Donn Ahern's PATC forum hike report. So far south in the south district of Shenandoah National Park that you aren't really in the Park, at least when on the AT. This hike would be one of those rare linear hikes, using two vehicles. I suspected it might be a busy time in the Park this past weekend, picture perfect weather, so decided to not bother seeking a secluded route- there might not be one. A simple AT trek this would be, a 20 miler from Blackrock parking south to McCormick Gap including an out-and-back to Turk Mountain, accumulating 4600 feet of elevation along the way. The weather was ideal- temperature in the 60's, dew point near 40, enough breeze but not too much, and nearly unlimited visibility. The line of cars at the Rockfish Gap entrance station at 9am indicated that it would be a busy Park day. The ranger there commented on how much busier it was than the day before (Saturday, an equally perfect day as Donn described).
My brother John and friend Steve were my fellow hikers. This was an "AT encore" hike. First up was Blackrock, the primary extra-easy destination to outstanding views in the south district. Being so easy one might suspect it's crowded there, but most often not; car people just don't venture very far from the overlooks. I've never felt crowded at Blackrock, and there was only a handful of hikers here. Trayfoot looms to the west, with the west-side peaks of the south district laid out in stunning relief nortward. The south end of Massanutten, 12 miles distant across Shenandoah Valley, stood out crystal clear as if one could reach out and touch it. During this hike, peaks 45 miles distant were visible.
Next stop was a short side trip to Moormans River Overlook on Skyline Drive (had to get an east view in there somewhere), with views of Bucks Elbow Mountain, Pond Ridge, Pasture Fence Mountain, and the Charlottesville Reservoir below. On the AT, we passed a trail notice of problem bears near Wildcat Ridge. I had heard mention of that last weekend, but know no specifics.
Turk Gap parking was full, with cars spilling out along the Drive... not a good sign, as Turk Mountain was our next stop. Lots 'o folk out on Turk Mountain. It was as busy as I've ever seen it (OK, last time there was post-sunset in December), but wow, Turk Mountain crowded? More folks were leaving than arriving, so for most of our summit stay it wasn't bad at all. I wanted to scramble some, but a bit risky and still a lot of hiking to do. Someday, maybe. Views were surperb.
The AT crosses the Drive at Sawmill Run Overlook, which is where we had cached water during the morning shuttle. Our somewhat hidden cache was still there, a good thing, as there was little if any water along the route. I've had cached water disappear during a hike (I mark it with date and intent so that it won't be thought of as litter if found). Sawmill Run Overlook is also a great spot for a break, great views, one of my favorite overlooks in the Park. Later, near Jarman Gap, we passed the only potential water sources on this route. One spring was dry and the other a very slow drip. It's very dry out there and getting drier each day.
"South of the South" as Donn called it- south of Jarman Gap, where the AT is on "Appalachian Trail Park" land, not in SNP. The climb up Calf Mountain was difficult, a thousand footer late in a long hike is always difficult. There was a group of eight to ten young folk coming down, some wearing flip-flops. That seemed a strange place to see them. Just another indicator of how busy it was this day. No stop at Calf Mountain Shelter (yep, shelter, not hut, though same thing- just not in SNP). The highlight here is not Calf Mountain, but Little Calf Mountain a bit further south, where an unmarked trail leads to the "summit" meadow. It's not marked because it's not in SNP. There was thistle and sumac about, and excellent views south and west to near and distant peaks in GWNF. Apple trees remain from an old orchard. There were red apple trees and green apple trees. Steve tried one of the red apples. Tart but not bad. Little Calf is a pretty easy out and back from Beagle Gap.
The AT crosses the Drive at Beagle Gap. The large open field here has a unique look and feel. Donn's description is dead-on. The field is overgrown with tall grasses and milkweed, and apple trees are scattered about the edges. There were several hikers exploring the area. Low angle sunlight glistened on the windswept milkweed on the south side as we began the final climb of the hike, up to Bear Den Mountain.
I just had to revisit Bear Den Mountain, where there are tractor seats embedded in the ground beside the trail (at the tower installation). I thought there were views here, and maybe there were (last visited in 2004), but it's now quite overgrown. The seats remain, and are often seen in thru-hiker's pictures. What's the story behind them? Interesting... the USGS map actually has "den" marked on Bear Den Mountain. I did hear a bear off in the woods shortly before McCormick Gap.
Sunset... missed it by less than a minute at Calf Mountain Overlook, but post-sunset has the best color anyway. Yep, that is a prime sunset spot. Back at Blackrock parking, a couple was returning from having watched sunset at Blackrock. They were staying at Loft Mountain campground. "Where's a good place to catch sunrise?" they asked. Boy, were they asking the right guy! My brain froze, but I came up with Ivy Creek Overlook. AT/Frazier junction? Maybe, but it may face too much to the north for this time of year. I know there are several spots along the AT near the campground for first light, but no specifics. They were more interested in hiking to a spot for sunrise (my kind of people!). Bearfence perhaps, unless Bluff Mountain blocks the horizon. Come to think of it, most of my sunrises have been at overlooks I've hiked to. There are a number of good hiking destinations for sunset but not so many for sunrise (Hawksbill and Marys Rock are excellent for both). I gotta get back out there for a sunrise. Someday, definitely.

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