It must take some really cold temperatures to stop a waterfall in its tracks. Well, it hasn't been cold enough long enough (sure felt like it), but cold enough long enough for some impressive ice formations. Cedar Run and Whiteoak Canyon would provide icy falls with easy access, the target for this hike.
It was a chilly start from the Whiteoak parking lot in Berry Hollow Saturday morning as fellow hiker Steve and I set out. Another cold cloudy day looked in order, but at least winds would be light. A couple other hiking parties arrived as we were gearing up. I figured we'd be the only ones out this early. The route would be a standard- up Cedar Run to Hawksbill, down to the AT, north to Skyland, and a return down Whiteoak Canyon. Add in Crescent Rock and Bettys Rock, and you've got one nice 15-miler. Plenty of daylight to get it all in, right? Well, not if you find yourself walking in a winter wonderland.
It was obvious before we got to the Park that the falls would not be completely frozen. I've seen Overall Run Falls and South River Falls frozen, and was hoping to find these frozen, but was not the case. There was a lot of ice though, not just in the runs, but hanging above and beside the trail, icicles 20 feet long (at least), icy cascades with crazy ice formations from the splashing water and spray. Cedar Run's two crossings were easy, water level down a few inches since the initial ice formed. For the most part there was very little ice to deal with on the trail. At one point, we came close to passing under giant ice daggers, not something you'd want falling on you. There had been a light snow the previous day, and it became more noticeable higher up. It was a fascinating hike up Cedar Run, and we spent more time here than usual.
A motorcycle passed by on Skyline Drive as I approached Hawksbill Gap. Hawksbill Gap though was empty, not something you'd ever find late on a Saturday morning with the Drive open. Perhaps the cyclist was out for a joy ride. Later, we'd find the Whiteoak Canyon lot across from Skyland stables deserted as well, another sure sign the Drive was closed. Not the norm, I took my time getting up to Hawksbill. Getting damp from sweat then freezing up on Hawksbill didn't seem too appealing. It was cold on Hawksbill, but tolerable. I added a layer or two there. The gray December haze under a wintry sky made it feel rather bleak and lonely up here.
After a break on Hawksbill, it was down the Salamander trail to the AT, then north around the cold icy north side of Hawksbill. We met a lone hiker near the tricky talus slope. He had seen us in the parking lot and had come up Whiteoak Canyon. We traded trail conditions and continued on. We met a hiking group (the other party assembling in the parking lot) near Hawksbill Gap. They mentioned an icy patch ahead for us... and icy it was. Drainage from Crescent Rock Overlook flows down across the AT, and a solid stretch of ice was blocking the trail. It had enough slope to not be walkable, and the Micro-Spikes were back in the car. Up or down and around wasn't an option (it was a large ice flow), the only way across was seated sliding frictionless from one rock to another, hoping not to lose grip in between and end up who knows where. That one small stretch would have been enough to justify carrying traction aids.
Crescent Rock Overlook is under construction. We could hear work going on there from atop Hawksbill. It was quiet by the time we got there, so we didn't let the orange plastic barricade stop us from a Crescent Rock stop. They've got a tent-like structure set up to work in while rebuilding the overlook's rock wall. Lumber and piles of debris were all around, with just a small portion of the new wall in place. The source of the ice flow was easy to identify- a drainage pipe under the pavement. Makes for pretty ice falls but sure makes the AT below a challenge. Bettys Rock provided a decent spot for a snack break, then it was back to the AT headed north to Skyland. Soon after resuming the AT, we met a father and son backpacking and alerted them of the upcoming ice patch. They were aiming for Byrds Nest up on Hawksbill for the night, but after hearing that the fireplace had been removed (and, oh, by the way, it's supposed to be day-use only), we think they opted for Rock Spring Hut instead.
Skyland was deserted. I did locate the frost-free hydrant that I knew was there somewhere. It's located around the north end side of the stables, a blue-handled hydrant. It ran muddy at first, then clear. We took a short break at the picnic table by the stable, then set out for the five mile descent via Whiteoak Canyon. As we crossed the eerily quiet Drive, I noticed two lonely looking deer watching us. Other than a squirrel or two, this was about it for wildlife. Some obscured tracks in the thin layer of snow on the way up Hawksbill indicated that there's plenty out and about.
The sky had that wintry look much of the day- grey overcast with the sun's disk dimly visible. Earlier it had been veiled sun through high clouds but now it looked as though it could snow any moment, but by Pollock Knob, clearing was appearing to the southwest. By sunset it was mostly clear, and there was enough moonlight to finish the hike nearly an hour after sunset without the need for artificial light.
Oh no! Whiteoak Canyon's falls in the dark... again? No, we made good time on the AT to Skyland and even better time to the upper falls of Whiteoak Canyon. There was less overhanging ice in Whiteoak Canyon than expected. Perhaps this was a good thing. Some had fallen during the day, as it did warm to near 40 at lower elevations. There were occasional mounds of ice below the cliff walls. As I stopped to take a picture along the "weeping wall", two ice slides landed several feet away. Maybe this wasn't the safest place to be standing. We reached the middle falls near sunset. I wanted to venture there, but my legs would have no part of that. There were no icy patches on the trail down canyon, so we zipped right along, reaching the lower falls 20 minutes after sunset, hiking by twilight and moonlight. I briefly thought about dropping down the rocks at the lower falls to get the perfect view (and picture), but someone with tripod and camera was already there in that perfect spot, getting my perfect shot. Still, my picture of the lower falls is one of my finest. The picture was overly blue from late twilight, so I present it in black and white. The light reflecting off the ice must be moonlight. Pretty cool!
I was prepared to leave the hiking poles at home. The hands get too cold holding them. I started the hike with them minimized and strapped to the pack, but this was Cedar Run, and the poles came out within minutes. With the icy patches on the AT, I wouldn't have wanted to be without the poles.
The old vintage 2003 Canon G3 camera didn't like the cold, but worked with a little persuasion. Going on nearly 12000 pictures and suffering almost as many bumps as falls as I have, it's been quite the performer. It served me well this hike: https://goo.gl/photos/naZzj9QwBxrYLy8w8
It was a chilly start from the Whiteoak parking lot in Berry Hollow Saturday morning as fellow hiker Steve and I set out. Another cold cloudy day looked in order, but at least winds would be light. A couple other hiking parties arrived as we were gearing up. I figured we'd be the only ones out this early. The route would be a standard- up Cedar Run to Hawksbill, down to the AT, north to Skyland, and a return down Whiteoak Canyon. Add in Crescent Rock and Bettys Rock, and you've got one nice 15-miler. Plenty of daylight to get it all in, right? Well, not if you find yourself walking in a winter wonderland.
It was obvious before we got to the Park that the falls would not be completely frozen. I've seen Overall Run Falls and South River Falls frozen, and was hoping to find these frozen, but was not the case. There was a lot of ice though, not just in the runs, but hanging above and beside the trail, icicles 20 feet long (at least), icy cascades with crazy ice formations from the splashing water and spray. Cedar Run's two crossings were easy, water level down a few inches since the initial ice formed. For the most part there was very little ice to deal with on the trail. At one point, we came close to passing under giant ice daggers, not something you'd want falling on you. There had been a light snow the previous day, and it became more noticeable higher up. It was a fascinating hike up Cedar Run, and we spent more time here than usual.
A motorcycle passed by on Skyline Drive as I approached Hawksbill Gap. Hawksbill Gap though was empty, not something you'd ever find late on a Saturday morning with the Drive open. Perhaps the cyclist was out for a joy ride. Later, we'd find the Whiteoak Canyon lot across from Skyland stables deserted as well, another sure sign the Drive was closed. Not the norm, I took my time getting up to Hawksbill. Getting damp from sweat then freezing up on Hawksbill didn't seem too appealing. It was cold on Hawksbill, but tolerable. I added a layer or two there. The gray December haze under a wintry sky made it feel rather bleak and lonely up here.
After a break on Hawksbill, it was down the Salamander trail to the AT, then north around the cold icy north side of Hawksbill. We met a lone hiker near the tricky talus slope. He had seen us in the parking lot and had come up Whiteoak Canyon. We traded trail conditions and continued on. We met a hiking group (the other party assembling in the parking lot) near Hawksbill Gap. They mentioned an icy patch ahead for us... and icy it was. Drainage from Crescent Rock Overlook flows down across the AT, and a solid stretch of ice was blocking the trail. It had enough slope to not be walkable, and the Micro-Spikes were back in the car. Up or down and around wasn't an option (it was a large ice flow), the only way across was seated sliding frictionless from one rock to another, hoping not to lose grip in between and end up who knows where. That one small stretch would have been enough to justify carrying traction aids.
Crescent Rock Overlook is under construction. We could hear work going on there from atop Hawksbill. It was quiet by the time we got there, so we didn't let the orange plastic barricade stop us from a Crescent Rock stop. They've got a tent-like structure set up to work in while rebuilding the overlook's rock wall. Lumber and piles of debris were all around, with just a small portion of the new wall in place. The source of the ice flow was easy to identify- a drainage pipe under the pavement. Makes for pretty ice falls but sure makes the AT below a challenge. Bettys Rock provided a decent spot for a snack break, then it was back to the AT headed north to Skyland. Soon after resuming the AT, we met a father and son backpacking and alerted them of the upcoming ice patch. They were aiming for Byrds Nest up on Hawksbill for the night, but after hearing that the fireplace had been removed (and, oh, by the way, it's supposed to be day-use only), we think they opted for Rock Spring Hut instead.
Skyland was deserted. I did locate the frost-free hydrant that I knew was there somewhere. It's located around the north end side of the stables, a blue-handled hydrant. It ran muddy at first, then clear. We took a short break at the picnic table by the stable, then set out for the five mile descent via Whiteoak Canyon. As we crossed the eerily quiet Drive, I noticed two lonely looking deer watching us. Other than a squirrel or two, this was about it for wildlife. Some obscured tracks in the thin layer of snow on the way up Hawksbill indicated that there's plenty out and about.
The sky had that wintry look much of the day- grey overcast with the sun's disk dimly visible. Earlier it had been veiled sun through high clouds but now it looked as though it could snow any moment, but by Pollock Knob, clearing was appearing to the southwest. By sunset it was mostly clear, and there was enough moonlight to finish the hike nearly an hour after sunset without the need for artificial light.
Oh no! Whiteoak Canyon's falls in the dark... again? No, we made good time on the AT to Skyland and even better time to the upper falls of Whiteoak Canyon. There was less overhanging ice in Whiteoak Canyon than expected. Perhaps this was a good thing. Some had fallen during the day, as it did warm to near 40 at lower elevations. There were occasional mounds of ice below the cliff walls. As I stopped to take a picture along the "weeping wall", two ice slides landed several feet away. Maybe this wasn't the safest place to be standing. We reached the middle falls near sunset. I wanted to venture there, but my legs would have no part of that. There were no icy patches on the trail down canyon, so we zipped right along, reaching the lower falls 20 minutes after sunset, hiking by twilight and moonlight. I briefly thought about dropping down the rocks at the lower falls to get the perfect view (and picture), but someone with tripod and camera was already there in that perfect spot, getting my perfect shot. Still, my picture of the lower falls is one of my finest. The picture was overly blue from late twilight, so I present it in black and white. The light reflecting off the ice must be moonlight. Pretty cool!
I was prepared to leave the hiking poles at home. The hands get too cold holding them. I started the hike with them minimized and strapped to the pack, but this was Cedar Run, and the poles came out within minutes. With the icy patches on the AT, I wouldn't have wanted to be without the poles.
The old vintage 2003 Canon G3 camera didn't like the cold, but worked with a little persuasion. Going on nearly 12000 pictures and suffering almost as many bumps as falls as I have, it's been quite the performer. It served me well this hike: https://goo.gl/photos/naZzj9QwBxrYLy8w8
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