SNP south: Jones Run & Doyles River

What began as a bushwhack to icy Dry Run Falls in early December evolved into a month long ice falls quest. Cedar Run and Whiteoak Canyon the following week had me hooked, and trekking on virgin snow and icy trail to three falls a week later just fueled the fire. These were all cloudy cold hikes, and the prospect of another cold and cloudy hike Christmas Day overcame the desire to venture out. Of all the major trail-accessible falls in the Park, I've seen all but those of Jones Run and Doyles River icy or frozen. With the forecast of a warm (relatively) and sunny (partly) New Year's Eve, this would be the day to seek them out.
Getting there... Skyline Drive was not an option, as it would surely be closed. Even if open, the hike needed to start early, and normal nightly closures would prevent that. There were two options- access from the west side near Grottoes or east side on Browns Cove Road. The SNP boundary access guide lists Browns Cove access as "poor", so opted for the longer drive but very familiar route in at Madison Run fire road. Would there still be ice in the falls? My brother John and I would soon find out.
It was supposed to be a warm day, but it didn't feel anything but cold starting out on Madison Run fire road at 8am. I hadn't planned to haul much cold weather gear, but the chill forced it. The warm up came fast on Furnace Mountain Trail though, not from the climb (of which there's a lot), but from simply getting out of the valley. The cold air drainage was in just a shallow layer, and less than a hundred feet up it was considerably warmer. At the end of the hike hours later, it was still much colder down here along Madison Run.
The trails still had snow and ice, the snow mostly under two inches, but occasional drifts somewhat deeper on ridgeline. The route to Furnace Mountain summit had been trampled to packed snow and ice, and the trail beyond the summit spur had seen more hiker traffic than expected. There were as many dog tracks as people tracks; no coyote tracks found. There were signs of backpackers as well- an unfortunate sign at that- a set of tent poles on the trail. There was no way to tell if these fell hiking in or hiking out. I can only imagine the agony of discovering no tent poles late in the day on a winter hike. We left them as we found them, and saw no backpacker.
The trail was slippery at times, but for climbing it wasn't a concern. We both had Micro-spikes, and I would use mine later on the Jones Run downhill. It was great to be hiking uphill at full pace without having to worry about cold weather moisture management. The views north from Furnace summit were superb, with Madison Run fire road visible as a thin trace of white. That would be our exit route, by then the snow would be gone leaving just a sloppy road bed. The Furnace Mountain Trail climb continued towards Trayfoot, with decent winter views south of Abbott Ridge. Cresting just below Trayfoot, the hike's climbing was two thirds done. We took the longer Trayfoot route instead of the Blackrock Spur shortcut in order to get excellent views of Trayfoot at the large scree slope. We had Blackrock to ourselves. I built a miniature snowman atop Blackrock, but in the warm sun I don't think he lived very long.
Trekking downhill in the snow on the AT was a breeze. A fast pace on gentle slope, slipping every so often just made the fast going fun. And it was sunny and warm! A deer watched as we crossed snow-coated Skyline Drive. It had the same surprised look as the deer at Big Meadows had two weeks earlier. The initial descent of Jones Run was easy, taking advantage of occasional downhill slippage. This trail had seen little traffic, and a few bear tracks were visible. After a couple slips beyond comfort, I attached the Micro-spikes. There was ample ice in Jones Run. With the east exposure, very little melting had occurred here. Jones Run Falls was spectacular! Thick blue ice surrounded the thin ribbon of water at the core. The flow was obviously much less than it had been, as the water was well recessed from the ice dome. Large icicles draped cliff walls. It looked like winter here.
Bottoming out and climbing south facing Doyles River, winter abruptly ended. The trail was generally snow-free, through Doyles River was still mostly ice. This was t-shirt weather. If not for the mud, it would have been shorts weather as well. Off came the Micro-spikes for another fun climb. Lower Doyles River Falls was frozen! I had never gone down the path to the falls, as there has always been too many people there. No other people this time, and I was able to get very close to the falls. I stood under large overhanging icicles, walked on ice and over boulders to get up close and personal with these falls. What a treat! This was another of those places you hate to leave. The upper falls were frozen as well, and I climbed on up next to them. I could look down into the blue ice-rimmed pool at the base as I stood beside a curtain of ice. John sat on the log at the bottom of the established side trail, waiting patiently.
A surprise at the upper falls- other hikers! The couple had come in from Browns Cove Road, parking their 4WD about a half mile from the gate and bushwhacking down to lower Doyles River. They were hiking up and would take the fire road downhill back to their vehicle. Our route would be up the fire road to Browns Gap, another new-to-me segment of trail in the Park. The SNP sign calls the gap "Brown Gap". So, what is the preferred/correct name? The hike ended with a nearly seven mile fire road walk, just under two miles up to Browns Gap and just over five miles down Madison Run fire road. It's quality fire road- we covered the distance in a little over two hours.
Access via US-340 from Elkton provides a unique view of the south district's west side, from Hanse Mountain to Beldor Ridge to Rocky Mount to Brown Mountain to Rockytop and on down. On the drive out (in daylight for a change), King and Queen Rocks on Brown Mountain stood tall. I hope to visit them some day.
Only one bear sighting in nearly 900 miles of hiking in 2010. Where has my bear mojo gone?
Pictures

SNP central: Rose River Falls, Lewis Spring Falls, Dark Hollow Falls

The winter icy waterfall hike series continued this past Saturday. It was a cold start, though not as cold as forecast thanks to a cloud cover. The past few hikes have been cold and cloudy... I miss blue sky. Fellow hiker Steve and I set out on Rose River fire road in the central district, the target falls being Rose River, Lewis Spring, and Dark Hollow. There was about three inches of snow on the ground, enough to use the Kahtoola MICROspikes. Perhaps not needed on the fire road, they were a necessity later when we were walking on ice.
We saw no one all day. Other than boot tracks in the snow on the first half mile of Rose River fire road, no other human tracks were seen. There were tracks though, many tracks: bear, coyote, bobcat, deer, wild turkey, fox (perhaps), and assorted bird. Bears don't care much for switchbacks. They seem to take the shortest route between two points. Most of the bear tracks were on lower and middle Rose River fire road. Tracks across the trail in the switchbacks were likely from the same bear, but we figure we saw tracks of a half dozen bear. I would say coyote are doing well in the Park; their tracks were numerous.
We found the shortcut down to the Rose River, along an abandoned trail. The route is mentioned in the AT guide book for SNP and shows on USGS maps. I had the route trace on my GPS, but didn't need it- there's an unmarked concrete post on Rose River fire road at the old trail junction, and looking downhill, cut trees were visible along a distinct old road bed. This was our shortcut, just over a quarter mile and 170 feet downhill. We had to work around numerous deadfall, but eventually emerged onto Rose River Loop Trail at the bridge over Hogcamp Branch. I had looked for this shortcut once before from the Rose River Loop Trail but had failed to find it. Finding the shortcut was critical on this hike, saving nearly two miles.
There was plenty of ice in Hogcamp Branch and Rose River. Rose River Falls was not frozen, but curtains of ice surrounded the falls. It was very pretty with the snow covering the ice. We continued upstream and eventually turned away from Rose River, headed for Fishers Gap. I came upon a trampled patch on Rose River Loop Trail. What had happened here? The patches of deer hair and blood in the snow told the story. Coyote tracks led in and out of the kill zone. Did coyote take down this deer, or had it already fallen? Coyote, turkey vultures, and perhaps other scavengers had left nothing, not even bones, just hair and blood-stained snow. This had occurred within the past 36 hours. Later at Big Meadows, we could hear two packs of coyote howling in the distance towards the southeast. They're out there!
Nearing Fishers Gap, we took the horse trail south to the Drive crossing, then ventured into Fishers Gap Overlook. This small trail segment had been bypassed last time here, and felt I needed to complete it. Skyline Drive had been plowed but had had icy patches and was obviously closed. There were several deer at the overlook. Just us, the snow, and the deer. The sun was dimly visible through the overcast. It was cold and quiet, no wind. Hold the breath and just listen to the silence. Awesome!
Onto the AT, southbound to Big Meadows, following deer and coyote track and making my own, trying not to ruin the animal tracks (so later hikers might enjoy). There's something special about being the first to hike on a snow-covered trail. We rounded Big Meadows campground, stopping at site 53 for a food break, then branching off and descending Lewis Spring Falls Trail. It was on this trail that the MICROspikes proved crucial. Much of the trail was on snow-covered solid ice sheets. There was no way to do this trail without traction aid. Even the wildlife was having trouble here, as could be seen in their track slippage.
Lewis Spring Falls was nearly frozen, with only a narrow channel flowing. We viewed the frozen falls from the observation platform. These are pretty falls, I should visit here more often, but so near the campground, finding them people-free is unlikely. Thick blue ice curtains and countless ice formations surrounded the falls. There was a nice view west from the ledge above the falls. This was one of those places you hate leaving, but time and cold fingers eventually forced us to move on. It's a rather steep climb to Skyline Drive, and I was ahead of Steve here, so gave Tanners Ridge Overlook a visit, again fine views west.
Expansive Big Meadows was ahead, with Fork Mountain visible off the the east. There were many deer near Big Meadows Wayside. Perhaps here in the open to better feel the surroundings, or perhaps here out of habit for the food found here much of the year, or perhaps they are safe here, as coyote likely avoid this human-infested zone. We stopped for a snack break at the wayside before the long downhill along Hogcamp Branch and Rose River. Just us, the snow, and the deer. The frost-free hydrant was dry, as it had been last time here. The sky had that wintry look that I'm growing used to but tired of on recent hikes. The overcast was thin enough to make the sun's disk visible, and a few breaks allowed low angle sunlight through making for a reddish sky.
Ice lined Dark Hollow Falls Trail, but we were immune with the MICROspikes. We passed a rock wall that was covered with thick sheets of ice. We'd seen several during the hike, and of course had to get some pictures. Part of Hogcamp Branch was flowing under the snow-covered ice, with occasional holes showing the swift current beneath. Dark Hollow Falls was an impressive mix of water, ice, and snow. We reached Rose River fire road near sunset, with low angle sun casting a warm hue. This wouldn't last long and quickly twilight turned into night. We had over five miles of rocky fire road to finish the hike. We made it a good distance under the pale milky full moon, but increasing clouds dimmed that light and out came the LEDs. Rose River fire road is one rocky road. It would be a favorite walk if it weren't for those rocks! The rocks were torture, and the road seemed to go on forever. This 18 mile hike took nearly 11 hours. Not sure where all the time was spent; hiking on snow and ice certainly takes extra time, as does taking nearly 200 photographs.
With Skyline Drive closed this seemed to be the best access route to reach the falls. Over half the hike was on Rose River fire road. With Drive access, this could be a great short loop hike. Looking at the map, I see there was an easier access- Tanners Ridge Road on the west side. A longer drive to get there, but would have cut out the excessive rocks. But those bear and coyote tracks made the extra miles worth it.
Snow makes picture taking a challenge. Exposure compensation, white balance, I tried numerous combinations. With a little tweaking of color temperature, fill lighting, and contrast, here are the pictures from this hike.

SNP central: Icy Cedar Run & Whiteoak Canyon

It must take some really cold temperatures to stop a waterfall in its tracks. Well, it hasn't been cold enough long enough (sure felt like it), but cold enough long enough for some impressive ice formations. Cedar Run and Whiteoak Canyon would provide icy falls with easy access, the target for this hike.
It was a chilly start from the Whiteoak parking lot in Berry Hollow Saturday morning as fellow hiker Steve and I set out. Another cold cloudy day looked in order, but at least winds would be light. A couple other hiking parties arrived as we were gearing up. I figured we'd be the only ones out this early. The route would be a standard- up Cedar Run to Hawksbill, down to the AT, north to Skyland, and a return down Whiteoak Canyon. Add in Crescent Rock and Bettys Rock, and you've got one nice 15-miler. Plenty of daylight to get it all in, right? Well, not if you find yourself walking in a winter wonderland.
It was obvious before we got to the Park that the falls would not be completely frozen. I've seen Overall Run Falls and South River Falls frozen, and was hoping to find these frozen, but was not the case. There was a lot of ice though, not just in the runs, but hanging above and beside the trail, icicles 20 feet long (at least), icy cascades with crazy ice formations from the splashing water and spray. Cedar Run's two crossings were easy, water level down a few inches since the initial ice formed. For the most part there was very little ice to deal with on the trail. At one point, we came close to passing under giant ice daggers, not something you'd want falling on you. There had been a light snow the previous day, and it became more noticeable higher up. It was a fascinating hike up Cedar Run, and we spent more time here than usual.
A motorcycle passed by on Skyline Drive as I approached Hawksbill Gap. Hawksbill Gap though was empty, not something you'd ever find late on a Saturday morning with the Drive open. Perhaps the cyclist was out for a joy ride. Later, we'd find the Whiteoak Canyon lot across from Skyland stables deserted as well, another sure sign the Drive was closed. Not the norm, I took my time getting up to Hawksbill. Getting damp from sweat then freezing up on Hawksbill didn't seem too appealing. It was cold on Hawksbill, but tolerable. I added a layer or two there. The gray December haze under a wintry sky made it feel rather bleak and lonely up here.
After a break on Hawksbill, it was down the Salamander trail to the AT, then north around the cold icy north side of Hawksbill. We met a lone hiker near the tricky talus slope. He had seen us in the parking lot and had come up Whiteoak Canyon. We traded trail conditions and continued on. We met a hiking group (the other party assembling in the parking lot) near Hawksbill Gap. They mentioned an icy patch ahead for us... and icy it was. Drainage from Crescent Rock Overlook flows down across the AT, and a solid stretch of ice was blocking the trail. It had enough slope to not be walkable, and the Micro-Spikes were back in the car. Up or down and around wasn't an option (it was a large ice flow), the only way across was seated sliding frictionless from one rock to another, hoping not to lose grip in between and end up who knows where. That one small stretch would have been enough to justify carrying traction aids.
Crescent Rock Overlook is under construction. We could hear work going on there from atop Hawksbill. It was quiet by the time we got there, so we didn't let the orange plastic barricade stop us from a Crescent Rock stop. They've got a tent-like structure set up to work in while rebuilding the overlook's rock wall. Lumber and piles of debris were all around, with just a small portion of the new wall in place. The source of the ice flow was easy to identify- a drainage pipe under the pavement. Makes for pretty ice falls but sure makes the AT below a challenge. Bettys Rock provided a decent spot for a snack break, then it was back to the AT headed north to Skyland. Soon after resuming the AT, we met a father and son backpacking and alerted them of the upcoming ice patch. They were aiming for Byrds Nest up on Hawksbill for the night, but after hearing that the fireplace had been removed (and, oh, by the way, it's supposed to be day-use only), we think they opted for Rock Spring Hut instead.
Skyland was deserted. I did locate the frost-free hydrant that I knew was there somewhere. It's located around the north end side of the stables, a blue-handled hydrant. It ran muddy at first, then clear. We took a short break at the picnic table by the stable, then set out for the five mile descent via Whiteoak Canyon. As we crossed the eerily quiet Drive, I noticed two lonely looking deer watching us. Other than a squirrel or two, this was about it for wildlife. Some obscured tracks in the thin layer of snow on the way up Hawksbill indicated that there's plenty out and about.
The sky had that wintry look much of the day- grey overcast with the sun's disk dimly visible. Earlier it had been veiled sun through high clouds but now it looked as though it could snow any moment, but by Pollock Knob, clearing was appearing to the southwest. By sunset it was mostly clear, and there was enough moonlight to finish the hike nearly an hour after sunset without the need for artificial light.
Oh no! Whiteoak Canyon's falls in the dark... again? No, we made good time on the AT to Skyland and even better time to the upper falls of Whiteoak Canyon. There was less overhanging ice in Whiteoak Canyon than expected. Perhaps this was a good thing. Some had fallen during the day, as it did warm to near 40 at lower elevations. There were occasional mounds of ice below the cliff walls. As I stopped to take a picture along the "weeping wall", two ice slides landed several feet away. Maybe this wasn't the safest place to be standing. We reached the middle falls near sunset. I wanted to venture there, but my legs would have no part of that. There were no icy patches on the trail down canyon, so we zipped right along, reaching the lower falls 20 minutes after sunset, hiking by twilight and moonlight. I briefly thought about dropping down the rocks at the lower falls to get the perfect view (and picture), but someone with tripod and camera was already there in that perfect spot, getting my perfect shot. Still, my picture of the lower falls is one of my finest. The picture was overly blue from late twilight, so I present it in black and white. The light reflecting off the ice must be moonlight. Pretty cool!
I was prepared to leave the hiking poles at home. The hands get too cold holding them. I started the hike with them minimized and strapped to the pack, but this was Cedar Run, and the poles came out within minutes. With the icy patches on the AT, I wouldn't have wanted to be without the poles.
The old vintage 2003 Canon G3 camera didn't like the cold, but worked with a little persuasion. Going on nearly 12000 pictures and suffering almost as many bumps as falls as I have, it's been quite the performer. It served me well this hike: https://goo.gl/photos/naZzj9QwBxrYLy8w8

SNP central: Entry Run, Lost Cliffs, Dry Run Falls

Lost Cliffs. It's marked on the PATC central district SNP map, west side, down Dry Run Falls fire road. Each year, I plan to go the short distance down the fire road and check them out, but never do. Years come and go. I wasn't going to let another year slip away without giving it a look, and as long as I'm down the fire road, why not attempt Dry Run Falls as well? The PATC map shows three falls along dry Run, USGS maps show just the middle falls, which would be the target for the hike. Not much information out there about either. From what I did find, it sounded like both were difficult, particularly the falls. I've got a mental defect about doing short hikes, so it would have to be part of a larger hike. With nightly Drive closures in effect, the hike would have to be from the Park boundary. Entry Run seemed a good choice, though the hike would be a 17+ miles. My brother saved the day by joining me and Steve, so with two vehicles, a more manageable 15 miler was set.
After a shuttle to leave a vehicle at Swift Run Gap, we were at the Entry Run trailhead near John's Rest around 9am. It's winter now, and this was our first really cold hike of the season. It doesn't seem to matter how many layers one has, it's cold! It takes about 15 minutes of uphill hiking for the hands to warm, and this hike started with quite an uphill- 1700' on the Entry Run Trail, broken only once as the trail drops to PATC Rosser-Lamb cabin (a house, actually). There was a trace of snow here and there from snow showers the previous day. The sun was veiled and provided little heat and there was enough of a breeze to add that extra chill. Frost heaves made the trail very pretty, though rather crunchy with crumbly footing. Entry Run is a well graded high quality trail, with several switchbacks on the final climb to Pocosin fire road.
Layers removed earlier were put back on after leveling out onto Pocosin fire road. It was "Hot Hands" time for me. Those really save the day when the fingers go cold, which usually happens after topping out after a climb. We followed the fire road to the AT, passing the Pocosin Mission ruins and icy runoff streams along the way. After a snack break out front at Pococin Cabin, it was south on the AT up and over Bald Face Mountain. The trail was a path of frost heaves, icy fingers that grow from the ground, lifting soil and rocks. This can make for a minor challenge, as the ice may give way under foot.
We'd met no other hikers until encountering a backpacker resting on the ground by a tree. Surely a section hiker, but no, a thru-hiker! Northbound? "The Compassionater" had started from Springer May 28th, but had left the trail twice due to family tragedy, and was on his "victory lap" to Harpers Ferry to complete his journey. He had met Ewok, the thru-hiker we had met on his first night on the trail, on Ewok's third day on the trail and later at Harpers Ferry. We had missed meeting Compassionater by a day or two, or perhaps we passed without knowing. The Compassionator has raised over $100,000 for Tulsa area charities on his journey. He is quite the inspiration. The story of his quest is at http://archive.lib.msu.edu/tic/wetrt/article/2011jun22.pdf
The clouds were thickening by the time we reached the view on Bald Face Mountain. There was snow in those clouds, it was just a matter of time before some would reach the ground. Fortunately, the wind had slackened, and it didn't feel quite as cold. We took South River fire road to the Drive, and crossed over to descend Dry Run Falls fire road. This would be my first trek down this road. First up is "Lost Cliffs" three quarters of a mile in. I had built it up in my mind as bigger, but still, it towers a hundred feet over the surrounding flat ground. What was billed as a difficult scramble was actually quite easy from either end. On top, the views west and south are superb. Why had it taken so many years to get here? We stayed here a good while.
I was ready to abandon the search for Dry Run Falls- the limited reports on the web call it an ugly bushwhack. Would we find it? Would it be worth it? Steve said go for it, which we did. The fire road crosses Dry Run then parallels the run as it drops in cascades. Soon after the point where the road veers away from the run is supposedly the best access to the falls. An ugly scramble it is. A bushwhack down a steep slope, then a treacherous drop at an unending slippery ledge. The falls were in view, but there was no easy drop down point. Somehow we managed to reach the base of the falls, class 3 bushwhacking indeed! We were in a winter wonderland, with icicles draped along the ledges above the falls, and spray from the falls freezing on rocks and limbs. It was beautiful here! It was one of those places you don't want to leave. Eventually came the dilemma of getting out... gravity was not our friend. After exploring options, we exited the same route we came in, and it was not easy. Don't attempt Dry Run Falls unless you're ready for some serious bushwhacking.
Back on the fire road, hiking seemed too easy. Had I really just done what I did? Man, that was fun, and quite the challenge! We rested a spell at South River picnic area, then resumed the hike south on the AT to Swift Run Gap. The hike ended nearly an hour past sunset (I never used my light!). No snow, just flurries on the drive home. From seeing The Compassionater's pictures, it looks like Shenandoah got a dusting. One thing's for sure- it's brutally cold there this week. Ya know what that means, don't ya?... frozen waterfalls!
Hiking poles- love them, but should have left them home for this hike. Already cold hands just get colder holding the poles, and they only got in the way on the scrambles. Wound up carrying them tucked under the arm a good portion of the hike.

Pictures