Saturday, November 20, 2010

SNP central: Staunton River, Fork Mountain, Jones Mountain

No thru-hiker meet-up this past Saturday, as they were taking a zero in Waynesboro after finishing SNP. Instead, fellow hiker Steve and I set out for an 18 miler in the central district, accessing the Park from the Graves Mill trailhead at the end of route 662 north of Wolftown. Out my door at 6am, we were on the trail by 8:15. First up is the the gentle uphill along the Rapidan River on the Graves Mill Trail, followed by the four mile climb to Fork Mountain Road on the Staunton River Trail. There were numerous cascades along both rivers and the sound of the rushing water was most pleasant, very mind-soothing. The crossings weren't difficult, and we had the trail to ourselves. More often than not, there's a vehicle parked at the trailhead on Fork Mountain. This time it was a tractor. Fork Mountain Road climbs to "The Sag" then on up to Fork Mountain. This would be my first time to continue past The Sag and to the top of Fork Mountain.
I do like long unbroken climbs. Cedar Run to Hawksbill, a favorite, gains 2900' over four miles. On this hike, I found another long unbroken climb, 2950' over six miles, from the Park boundary, up the Staunton River Trail and Fork Mountain Road to the top of Fork Mountain. Fork Mountain, the one with the towers, sits just outside the Park boundary on the east side in the middle of the central district. At the powerline clearing on the top is a great view north of Doubletop and Old Rag. The steep rocky face of Doubletop's second peak stands out, and looking down the spine of Doubletop, there are at least seven distinct peaks as it descends to the Rose River. Sure, you're amid towers and power lines, but you'll likely find yourself alone here.
Descending back to The Sag, it was down Fork Mountain Trail (an old switch-backed road) to Laurel Prong. Camp Hoover, at the junction of Mill Prong and Laurel Prong, makes for a fine break spot, and would be an out and back on this hike. Relaxing on the benches on the deck of the Brown House, in the sun and sheltered from the wind (should there be any), is the ideal place for a mid-hike rest. We met a group on horses as we approached Camp Hoover, and met them again as we were leaving. On first meet, they asked where the trail went. To Laurel Gap; Cat Knob left, AT right, with Fork Mountain just ahead, I replied. Soon after, I realized I forgot to mention that Laurel Prong was blue-blazed beyond Fork Mountain. On second meet, they asked where we'd come from. We pointed up to Fork Mountain, which looms above Camp Hoover, and said we'd come up the Staunton River Trail. I had pronounced "Staunton" with the "u", but was corrected that it's "Stanton", without the "u". I seem to recall that the "Stanton" pronunciation is correct from reading the Jones Mountain book.
The second climb of the day followed, Laurel Prong to Laurel Gap, then steeply up Cat Knob. This was followed by the slow descent along the Jones Mountain Trail. We met three hikers on Jones Mountain, the only other people we'd see other than the horse folks and two hikers resting at Camp Hoover. The pink-blazed RWMA trail that leads down to Conway River Road is still evident. The blazes looked fresh, but the trail is overgrown. Do I still intend to do this trail someday? We eventually reached Bear Church Rock after several knobs. For any first-time hiker coming this way to Bear Church Rock, they must wonder where in the world is this place! Shadows were getting long at Bear Church Rock, so we didn't linger long. Earlier on Jones Mountain, dry leaves had made descents quite tricky, but the steep descent to the Staunton River was clear and easy. From here, it was a retrace along the Staunton River Trail and Graves Mill Trail to finish the hike. We reached the trailhead parking shortly after sunset. Yet another superb hiking day.
Along the Graves Mill Trail, there was a strong earthy odor which reminds me of valerian root. Valerian root extract is supposedly an herbal aid for insomnia. I've tried it with little or no success, but it sure drives my cats crazy. It's quite pungent. I've noticed this odor before during hikes, I think always at this time of year, but have never tried to locate the source. Perhaps its just decaying leaves.
Pictures

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