SNP central: Staunton River, Fork Mountain, Jones Mountain

No thru-hiker meet-up this past Saturday, as they were taking a zero in Waynesboro after finishing SNP. Instead, fellow hiker Steve and I set out for an 18 miler in the central district, accessing the Park from the Graves Mill trailhead at the end of route 662 north of Wolftown. Out my door at 6am, we were on the trail by 8:15. First up is the the gentle uphill along the Rapidan River on the Graves Mill Trail, followed by the four mile climb to Fork Mountain Road on the Staunton River Trail. There were numerous cascades along both rivers and the sound of the rushing water was most pleasant, very mind-soothing. The crossings weren't difficult, and we had the trail to ourselves. More often than not, there's a vehicle parked at the trailhead on Fork Mountain. This time it was a tractor. Fork Mountain Road climbs to "The Sag" then on up to Fork Mountain. This would be my first time to continue past The Sag and to the top of Fork Mountain.
I do like long unbroken climbs. Cedar Run to Hawksbill, a favorite, gains 2900' over four miles. On this hike, I found another long unbroken climb, 2950' over six miles, from the Park boundary, up the Staunton River Trail and Fork Mountain Road to the top of Fork Mountain. Fork Mountain, the one with the towers, sits just outside the Park boundary on the east side in the middle of the central district. At the powerline clearing on the top is a great view north of Doubletop and Old Rag. The steep rocky face of Doubletop's second peak stands out, and looking down the spine of Doubletop, there are at least seven distinct peaks as it descends to the Rose River. Sure, you're amid towers and power lines, but you'll likely find yourself alone here.
Descending back to The Sag, it was down Fork Mountain Trail (an old switch-backed road) to Laurel Prong. Camp Hoover, at the junction of Mill Prong and Laurel Prong, makes for a fine break spot, and would be an out and back on this hike. Relaxing on the benches on the deck of the Brown House, in the sun and sheltered from the wind (should there be any), is the ideal place for a mid-hike rest. We met a group on horses as we approached Camp Hoover, and met them again as we were leaving. On first meet, they asked where the trail went. To Laurel Gap; Cat Knob left, AT right, with Fork Mountain just ahead, I replied. Soon after, I realized I forgot to mention that Laurel Prong was blue-blazed beyond Fork Mountain. On second meet, they asked where we'd come from. We pointed up to Fork Mountain, which looms above Camp Hoover, and said we'd come up the Staunton River Trail. I had pronounced "Staunton" with the "u", but was corrected that it's "Stanton", without the "u". I seem to recall that the "Stanton" pronunciation is correct from reading the Jones Mountain book.
The second climb of the day followed, Laurel Prong to Laurel Gap, then steeply up Cat Knob. This was followed by the slow descent along the Jones Mountain Trail. We met three hikers on Jones Mountain, the only other people we'd see other than the horse folks and two hikers resting at Camp Hoover. The pink-blazed RWMA trail that leads down to Conway River Road is still evident. The blazes looked fresh, but the trail is overgrown. Do I still intend to do this trail someday? We eventually reached Bear Church Rock after several knobs. For any first-time hiker coming this way to Bear Church Rock, they must wonder where in the world is this place! Shadows were getting long at Bear Church Rock, so we didn't linger long. Earlier on Jones Mountain, dry leaves had made descents quite tricky, but the steep descent to the Staunton River was clear and easy. From here, it was a retrace along the Staunton River Trail and Graves Mill Trail to finish the hike. We reached the trailhead parking shortly after sunset. Yet another superb hiking day.
Along the Graves Mill Trail, there was a strong earthy odor which reminds me of valerian root. Valerian root extract is supposedly an herbal aid for insomnia. I've tried it with little or no success, but it sure drives my cats crazy. It's quite pungent. I've noticed this odor before during hikes, I think always at this time of year, but have never tried to locate the source. Perhaps its just decaying leaves.

Pictures

AT, nVA & SNPn: thru-hiker meet-up

A preeminent hike- hiking with the thru-hikers met earlier this year. Long hoped for, it was finally happening Saturday. My brother John couldn't make it, so it would be just be me and fellow hiker Steve. Of the thru-hikers encountered on the AT in GA & NC during a 2-week backpack earlier this year, I was following two. Ewok was about to enter Shenandoah, Pusher had finished but lives nearby.

I had met Ewok on the AT at Stover Creek Shelter in Georgia. It was his first night on the trail. He made it to Hot Springs then left the trail for a few weeks. Upon resuming, he found conditions dangerously dry, so he flipped and headed south from Katahdin. He plans to reach Hot Springs by New Years, but may continue with companion Sissy to Springer. The winter will be challenging, particularly the Grayson and Roan Highlands and the Smokies. As a Florida native, this will be Sissy's first winter. She started out solo (well, with her dog Mabel) SOBO from Katahdin, encountering Ewok in New York and they've been hiking together since. They've had some amazing experiences out on the trail.

Pusher, the other thru-hiker I met on the AT in Georgia and later in North Carolina, completed his thru-hike on October 15th, the last day Baxter is open for legal hiking. His final days in Maine were pretty rough. I'd been following him (and Ewok) on Facebook. He lives nearby in Opal, and I had contacted him to let him know about this hike. Ewok knew of him even though they met only in passing on the trail, as I had asked Ewok to keep an eye out for him (it's fun being an armchair thru-hiker!). Sissy remembered him, as Pusher had carried a guitar, and played "House of the Rising Sun" for her months earlier. After a couple texts, he was going to come out for post-hike beer and pizza at Gravel Springs Hut. This hike was one I had been looking forward to for over five months! How cool is it to hike with "your" thru-hikers?!

Ewok and Sissy would be starting the day SOBO from Jim & Molly Denton Shelter, Steve and I would start out NOBO from US-522 near Chester Gap, meeting (hopefully) halfway. We started a bit early, they a bit late. We waited a spell at the top of the thousand foot climb, then slowly continued north. The few southbound hikers we met said there were only hunters ahead. About the time I was getting concerned, they appeared! A warm greeting, then we all hiked south.

We had donuts and apple cider waiting for them at Chester Gap. The donuts were from "The Apple House" in Linden, half pumpkin, half apple. They make the donuts right there (you can watch them being made). They are delicious! Turns out Ewok and Sissy had eaten there the previous day during a mail-drop pickup in Linden. The donuts are a bit on the small side, so we should have bought a dozen, not eight. Ewok and Sissy each had three plus assorted candy and could have eaten more. Never underestimate a thru-hiker's appetite. Oh well, we'd make up for that later with beer and pizza, right? They weren't planning to go as far as Gravel Springs Hut, but for beer and pizza, absolutely!

The long climb into Shenandoah followed. There was still fine color in the lowlands, tapering off as we climbed. It was warm in the sun, the forest had that nice autumnal smell, and the crunch of the dry leaves made for great hiking, though at times difficult to hear all. At each rest break, Mabel would be zonked out almost immediately. The steep climb ended at rocky Possums Rest, but there were people here with two large dogs that weren't very friendly towards Mabel, so we didn't linger long at the viewpoint, and entered into Shenandoah National Park ("The Shennies" as thru-hikers call it). We talked about all our trail adventures. One sad item was that the mayor of Unionville, New York had to sell his house, so it's no longer a thru-hiker's stopping place. We hiked to the junction with the Dickey Ridge Trail, where we'd part ways. Ewok ate dry Ramen noodles, Sissy had bologna and cheese on crackers. They'd hike on another eight miles to Gravel Springs Hut, we'd hike another six back to Chester Gap via Dickey Ridge, Hickerson Hollow, a road walk, and the AT. We'd then get beer and pizza in Front Royal, head down the drive to Gravel Springs Gap, and walk it in to the hut. This would be great!

I'd thought through most everything, had it all planned out. There was only one item that I had forgotten to check, the status of Skyline Drive. Surely it was open, the north and south districts close at 5pm in December only, right? I've hiked SNP for years, and never had an issue with Skyline Drive except in December. Well, since my hikes are long and ending with an uphill is no fun, almost all hikes start from boundary access. Was I certain the Drive would be open? Halfway out Dickey Ridge, it nags me enough to check. I call my niece, she checks the Park web site... you know that sinking feeling when something goes horribly wrong?... well, I had that when told that Drive closures started November 8th. There was no way to get to Gravel Springs Gap. I'd promised thru-hikers something I couldn't deliver. Guilt, dismay; emotions were deep. I still had the candy that I would have given them at the shelter. The thought of them anticipating beer and pizza that could never come was unbearable. We hadn't said our proper farewell. There was more I wanted to say, more I wanted to know. The only saving grace was that I had asked Ewok to text me from North Marshall to help time things. I sent him a voice and text message, hoping beyond hope that he would get it. I called Pusher to tell him not to come.

It was a gloomy hike down Hickerson Hollow. I was gloomy, not the trail. This was the last remaining trail in the north district that I hadn't hiked, but I was numb. It is a pleasant trail and there were patches of good color in the hollow, but my head wasn't there. Out of cell range, we had a two mile road walk and a little over a mile on the AT to get back to Chester Gap. The western sky was crimson, and I hoped Ewok and Sissy were enjoying it from the AT. Would they get my bad news? Our hike ended well after dark, passing the expansive 4-H center in fading twilight. The AT stretch was spooky, with deer's eyes glowing from just off the trail. There were many eyes watching us.

On the descent into Chester Gap, my phone rings. It's a text from Ewok, "pretty sure I'm on North Marshall, should make it to the shelter soon enough." Oh no! He didn't get my message? No, this can't be! As I was freaking out, a second text arrived, he got my message, said "no worries, thanks for trying, it was really fun to see you again." Thank goodness! I still felt horrible, but at least knew they wouldn't be waiting for a meal not coming. Trail magic happens, but sometimes you can't force it, and there was nothing we could do. We drove to the north entrance to confirm the Drive was closed. It was.

The November Drive closures are nothing new. How in the world did I not know? Long hikes not using the Drive, that's how. I'm embarrassed and overly guilty, but ever so fortunate to have had the opportunity to hike with these great adventurers. Pusher may try to link up with Ewok and Sissy during this week. I have all week to contemplate trying to link up with them again. Maybe some things should just be left alone, but I'm not sure I can settle for that. I'm certainly grateful for the time I did get to spend with them, and I wish them the very best.

Pictures

Gunpowder Falls State Park

When it's cold "out west", hikes are often closer to home here in the lowlands. One local (well, closer than SNP) favorite in Gunpowder Falls State Park, Hereford Area, north of Baltimore. Two trails parallel the Big Gunpowder River, and several side trails provide loops into the hilly terrain. The highlight is at the west end of the park, Prettyboy Dam and Reservoir.

Fellow hiker Steve and I have been hiking here since 2005, most often in April and November it seems, though recently we come here in early to mid July for the raspberries that line many of the trails. Our standard route is 16 miles, 18 miles if we include additional side trails.

Gunpowder South Trail gets the most use and so the best maintenance. Gunpowder North Trail sees less use, is overgrown in summer, and usually offers some challenging blowdowns to negotiate. It has a wild feel. There are rocks, sinkholes, stickers, and at times, mud. Watch out for the bees in summer. If you like raspberries, this is the place to be in early to mid July. Both trails parallel the river for most of their length. In summer the river provides multi-use recreation- rafting, tubing, kayaking, canoeing, and fishing.

I-83 bisects the park on a high bridge over the river. We park on York Road just south of the river, room for a dozen cars. The warm up hike is a 7 mile loop on the east side followed by a 9 or 11 mile loop on the west side. The only "out and back" is a portion of the final stretch to the dam, on Gunpowder South Trail, which leads to the base of the dam. With a little scrambling, one can get right to the base of the dam, then with some steep climbing on eroded trail, to an observation deck about halfway up. From there, steps lead to the road across the top of the dam, and one can look over the dam to the outlet below and down the Gunpowder valley, and behind, out over the Prettyboy Reservoir. For the adventuresome, scale the rock wall at the north end of the dam and descend (carefully) to slopy rock ledges for a fine rest stop with great views of the dam and river.

The hike this past Saturday started out on the chilly side as we headed east on Gunpowder South Trail, but warmed up quickly on the climb to the Panther Branch Trail. Morning frost had melted leaving the trails wet and slick, with the autumnal scent of decaying leaves in the air. Panther Branch had several pretty cascades on the descent back to the river and I got my standard long exposure shots. Gunpowder South ends at the new Big Falls Road bridge, the construction of which we've witnessed as glimpses over the course of a couple years. Crossing the bridge and heading west, we took Gunpowder North Trail its full length, nearly six miles. This trail see less use. Even in July, wear long pants here. This trail follows the river, though there used to be a trail that climbed a hill, but we can no longer locate that route. The trail passes a cascade slide, and crosses several side streams, and beaver activity is evident all along the river trails. There are always a downed tree or two to negotiate. On this hike, I got into a fight with one. Since this downed tree was on a slope, I opted to crawl under. I used a solid 3" limb to lower myself to the ground. Just before getting into position, the limb snapped, spring-boarding back and hitting me squarely in the right eye. If not for my glasses, I'm quite sure I'd have lost my eye. The titanium frames were mangled, but I escaped with only a couple minor scratches and a bit of a black eye. My prescription sunglasses got me through the rest of the hike (driving home at dusk was an adventure).

The western-most segment of the Gunpowder South Trail is the most challenging. It starts with a steep up and down, then traverses the rocky banks of the Big Gunpowder River. There are gullies, downed trees, rocks, laurel thickets, and sinkholes to contend with. Rounding the final bend, the roar of the dam becomes noticeable, then can be seen ahead. There are a couple rock ledges that extend into the river that offer good views. The best view though is from the observation deck part way up the dam. Getting there involves a steep scramble up an eroded embankment and climbing over a rock wall, but worth it. From the observation platform, the seemingly never-ending steps lead to the top of the dam. The rock ledges on the north side are visible, and we knew they were available, and we made our way to them for a snack break (again, scaling a rock barrier wall). There is a road across the Prettyboy Dam. On one hike, while on the road on top of the dam, someone drove up and asked us "where's the dam?".

Steve remembered that there was once a trail that led from near the base of the dam to the top. A faded switchback blaze on a tree indicates this. We couldn't locate it from below, but on the return, we were able to follow it from old blazes and cues from cut logs. The trail is there, but indistinct. We retrace Gunpowder South a distance, then branch off onto the Highland Trail, which climbs to a ridge then drops back to the river trail. The stretch of this trail just east of Falls Road is dense with raspberries during the second week of July. Same goes for portions of Mingo Forks Trail, which we did not take this time. After a couple more climbs on the Gunpowder South Trail, we end the hike back at York Road. Over the 16 miles, we accumulated roughly 1800 feet of elevation. Except for the segment to the dam, we encounter few people on the trails. It's a great place to hike.

There are two other sections of Gunpowder Falls SP, but I've yet to explore them. Now, one has to ask... exactly where are the falls at Gunpowder Falls? Well, there are no falls here; the name comes from "fall line". Even though "falls" is the name, there are no waterfalls on the Big Gunpowder Falls. The impressive discharge from the reservoir at the dam makes up for this. Additional information about the park: http://dnr2.maryland.gov/publiclands/Pages/central/gunpowder.aspx

I compiled a photo album of hikes at Gunpowder Falls State Park: https://goo.gl/photos/HTrxYP399mbmnLFE7

Oldest pics appear first, this past weekend's pics are at the end. Yes, I know, too many "dam" pictures!