Big Run Portal. It's part of many a south district hike. But when had I last hiked the upper portion, between Patterson Ridge and the Big Run Loop Trail? Only once, over nine years ago, on my first Rockytop outing, just weeks after a fire raged on Rockytop's slopes. Perhaps there would be good fall color here at the lower levels. Looking down into Big Run from the Brown Mountain Trail, prospects of finding high color faded. A lone red tree (maple, I assume) was spotted up a ravine in the distance, otherwise it was mostly brown or bare, with scattered patches of yellow (poplar, I assume). Leaves covered much of the rocky Brown Mountain Trail, crunching under foot while negotiating the rocks. Dry leaves on rocks seem more slippery than wet leaves. Stops at the usual spots- the rocky top of Rocky Mountain and the rock outcrop just past Brown Mountain- provided excellent views south and west across Big Run. This would have been the ideal time to bushwhack out to King and Queen Rocks, but that and a 20 miler don't mix. Fellow hiker Steve and I stuck to the trails.
As expected (and relied on), Big Run was quite low. I wouldn't be hiking Big Run during anything but low water- too many crossings. Even at low flow, crossing the wide shallow run on small loose rocks can be tricky. From Big Run's lower end (near "The Portal"), the white cliffs of Rockytop and Brown Mountain loom. We reached Big Run Portal at the steel bridge and began the gentle climb up Big Run. A couple fisher-folk were camped near here, and at a later crossing, three young backpackers were taking a break. Several day-hikers were resting at the upper end junction with the Big Run Loop Trail. Past Patterson Ridge, the trail felt only vaguely familiar. There were several "yeah, I remember that!" moments, but otherwise the trail felt new to me. Years and a different season will do that, plus last time there was a thunderstorm bearing down. It was quite pleasant despite the lack of color.
Decision time at the Big Run Loop Trail junction- bear right and climb to the AT for a 20 miler, or bear left and climb to Big Run Overlook for an 18 miler? Either way it's a sizable climb. The bonus counter-clockwise would be a pass through Doyles River Overlook on the AT. We took the clockwise route up to Big Run Overlook. I popped in the earbuds and did my best "head down" hiking (but looked up, and behind, every now and then). It was chilly at Big Run Overlook, so I swapped out the wet poly tee for Capilene, a windbreaker, Polartec cap, and gloves and sat on the rock wall taking in the views (and tuning out the car people- noise canceling earbuds do work!).
After a long break at the Overlook, we picked up the AT across the Drive and headed north towards Loft Mountain. It's hard to get the legs moving again on a cold day after a lengthy break. Branching off from the AT, we were soon enjoying views from the Loft Mountain campground amphitheater (better view west than from the overlooks). A smell of overripe apples was in the air near the amphitheater and several apple trees were found nearby. On the shortcut trail from the amphitheater, a large bare tree with giant arms looked almost scary. Topping out at the camp store, it was a gentle downhill on the paved walkway down to the wayside, with good color throughout. A buck standing beside the campground road was posing for pictures. Not scared at all of cars, people (us) stopping to take a picture made it bolt.
Mmmm... late season fry oil smell as we approached the wayside. The wayside was not crowded, a sure sign of a season winding down. We had our blackberry milkshake and fries outdoors in the chilly breeze. It's a lot of work sucking a shake through a straw when it's slow to melt. Advance planning told me to leave the wayside by quarter to five to catch sunset from "my place" on the AT. We were running a couple minutes late, and had to restart the legs for the climb back to the AT on the Frazier Discovery Trail (north side of the loop). The massive overhanging rock on that short trail segment is a "must see". Up-trail from there is one of the best viewpoints in the south district, the large rock ledge at the AT/Frazier junction. There was decent color below from this deserted vantage point, while a wintry grey overcast sky dimmed prospects of a colorful sunset.
Running late and still determined to get to my AT nook for sunset, whatever it may be, I'd have to cover over two miles in about 40 minutes. A fast pace allowed a couple short stops to take in the pastel colors in fading light on the descent to Ivy Creek. The instant I arrived at my destination, the sky went from grey to golden as the lowering sun broke free from the overcast. This would be no ordinary sunset. Smoke from the Lokey Fire in the George Washington NF was settling into the valley, and that combined with the chaotic clouds made for what was certainly the best sunset I've witnessed. Being at my favorite AT spot to boot, time stood still here. In that infinitesimal eternity, I saw the sky turn every which color. Pink and lavender through the smoke to the north, golden red and orange into the sun, all shades of blue overhead, and crimson south. Oh, the crimson! There was no other place I wanted to be. This was a lasting moment. Color?... I got my color!
Steve arrived less than a minute before sunset. We reluctantly left some 22 minutes later, I being partially blinded by staring into the sunset too long. The deep crimson lingered far into twilight. Leaving the AT at Ivy Creek Overlook, a short Drive walk in the dark would lead back to the car at Brown Mountain Overlook. No light needed, except for when cars approached, switched on to alert of our presence. A hint of twilight remained on the horizon an hour past sunset, eventually merging into the night lights of the valley below.
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