SNP south: Brown Mountain, Big Run, AT; sunset!

Big Run Portal. It's part of many a south district hike. But when had I last hiked the upper portion, between Patterson Ridge and the Big Run Loop Trail? Only once, over nine years ago, on my first Rockytop outing, just weeks after a fire raged on Rockytop's slopes. Perhaps there would be good fall color here at the lower levels. Looking down into Big Run from the Brown Mountain Trail, prospects of finding high color faded. A lone red tree (maple, I assume) was spotted up a ravine in the distance, otherwise it was mostly brown or bare, with scattered patches of yellow (poplar, I assume). Leaves covered much of the rocky Brown Mountain Trail, crunching under foot while negotiating the rocks. Dry leaves on rocks seem more slippery than wet leaves. Stops at the usual spots- the rocky top of Rocky Mountain and the rock outcrop just past Brown Mountain- provided excellent views south and west across Big Run. This would have been the ideal time to bushwhack out to King and Queen Rocks, but that and a 20 miler don't mix. Fellow hiker Steve and I stuck to the trails.

As expected (and relied on), Big Run was quite low. I wouldn't be hiking Big Run during anything but low water- too many crossings. Even at low flow, crossing the wide shallow run on small loose rocks can be tricky. From Big Run's lower end (near "The Portal"), the white cliffs of Rockytop and Brown Mountain loom. We reached Big Run Portal at the steel bridge and began the gentle climb up Big Run. A couple fisher-folk were camped near here, and at a later crossing, three young backpackers were taking a break. Several day-hikers were resting at the upper end junction with the Big Run Loop Trail. Past Patterson Ridge, the trail felt only vaguely familiar. There were several "yeah, I remember that!" moments, but otherwise the trail felt new to me. Years and a different season will do that, plus last time there was a thunderstorm bearing down. It was quite pleasant despite the lack of color.

Decision time at the Big Run Loop Trail junction- bear right and climb to the AT for a 20 miler, or bear left and climb to Big Run Overlook for an 18 miler? Either way it's a sizable climb. The bonus counter-clockwise would be a pass through Doyles River Overlook on the AT. We took the clockwise route up to Big Run Overlook. I popped in the earbuds and did my best "head down" hiking (but looked up, and behind, every now and then). It was chilly at Big Run Overlook, so I swapped out the wet poly tee for Capilene, a windbreaker, Polartec cap, and gloves and sat on the rock wall taking in the views (and tuning out the car people- noise canceling earbuds do work!).

After a long break at the Overlook, we picked up the AT across the Drive and headed north towards Loft Mountain. It's hard to get the legs moving again on a cold day after a lengthy break. Branching off from the AT, we were soon enjoying views from the Loft Mountain campground amphitheater (better view west than from the overlooks). A smell of overripe apples was in the air near the amphitheater and several apple trees were found nearby. On the shortcut trail from the amphitheater, a large bare tree with giant arms looked almost scary. Topping out at the camp store, it was a gentle downhill on the paved walkway down to the wayside, with good color throughout. A buck standing beside the campground road was posing for pictures. Not scared at all of cars, people (us) stopping to take a picture made it bolt.

Mmmm... late season fry oil smell as we approached the wayside. The wayside was not crowded, a sure sign of a season winding down. We had our blackberry milkshake and fries outdoors in the chilly breeze. It's a lot of work sucking a shake through a straw when it's slow to melt. Advance planning told me to leave the wayside by quarter to five to catch sunset from "my place" on the AT. We were running a couple minutes late, and had to restart the legs for the climb back to the AT on the Frazier Discovery Trail (north side of the loop). The massive overhanging rock on that short trail segment is a "must see". Up-trail from there is one of the best viewpoints in the south district, the large rock ledge at the AT/Frazier junction. There was decent color below from this deserted vantage point, while a wintry grey overcast sky dimmed prospects of a colorful sunset.

Running late and still determined to get to my AT nook for sunset, whatever it may be, I'd have to cover over two miles in about 40 minutes. A fast pace allowed a couple short stops to take in the pastel colors in fading light on the descent to Ivy Creek. The instant I arrived at my destination, the sky went from grey to golden as the lowering sun broke free from the overcast. This would be no ordinary sunset. Smoke from the Lokey Fire in the George Washington NF was settling into the valley, and that combined with the chaotic clouds made for what was certainly the best sunset I've witnessed. Being at my favorite AT spot to boot, time stood still here. In that infinitesimal eternity, I saw the sky turn every which color. Pink and lavender through the smoke to the north, golden red and orange into the sun, all shades of blue overhead, and crimson south. Oh, the crimson! There was no other place I wanted to be. This was a lasting moment. Color?... I got my color!

Steve arrived less than a minute before sunset. We reluctantly left some 22 minutes later, I being partially blinded by staring into the sunset too long. The deep crimson lingered far into twilight. Leaving the AT at Ivy Creek Overlook, a short Drive walk in the dark would lead back to the car at Brown Mountain Overlook. No light needed, except for when cars approached, switched on to alert of our presence. A hint of twilight remained on the horizon an hour past sunset, eventually merging into the night lights of the valley below.

Pictures

SNP north, 10/23- Little Devils Stairs, Overall Run Falls

This was supposed to be the year to slow down and let the body recover... but the tenth 20-miler weekend in a row with ideal hiking weather... OK, I'm a hiking addict (is there a "hikers anonymous"?). Shorter days, shorter hikes, right? No, they're getting longer. The culprit? The waysides for blackberry shakes!. Gotta include a wayside stop in the hike. Why haven't I been doing this all along?!
The full moon was setting as fellow hiker Steve and I approached the Park early Saturday morning. That moon would cast some light for a fire road finish hours later. There was one car in the parking lot for Little Devils Stairs when we arrived and the same one there when we left. I suspect there were a few more in between. The other car likely belonged to the campers that were setting up tents a short distance in on the LDS trail. The east side color is pretty lackluster, still more green than other, and not a healthy green. There's a fairly high leaf fall as well, so I'm not expecting much color from what remains. It's been dry again lately, and Keyser Run had quite low flow. Leaves coated the surface of pools, parting as cascades gently poured in. There's the occasional bright orange or yellow tree, and sunlight not yet reaching the canyon floor was casting a warm glow off the yellow-green leaves above. Cool and crisp with little wind made for a pleasant climb up Little Devils Stairs. Eventually reaching "Fourway", we took Keyser Run fire road to Skyline Drive.
Instead of picking up the AT across the Drive from Keyser Run fire road, we hiked the Drive north a half mile to include Mount Marshall Overlook. Primarily yellows and greens from here, with North Marshall and The Peak the main features to see. The Drive was starting to get busy, as this is prime leaf-peeping season. We picked up the AT at the Drive crossing and followed it south to Elkwallow Wayside, stopping at the usual spots along the way- Little Hogback, the old hang-glider site on Hogback (when was this last used for hang-gliding?), the rocks behind Hogback Overlook, and Sugarloaf. There was very little traffic on the AT, but Elkwallow Wayside was buzzing (with people and bees).
The wayside blackberry shake; not as rich and creamy as the Skyland version, but mighty fine nonetheless. Add a soda and a bagful of fries, and I needed very little other food the entire hike. Lately, all the food I've brought on the hike has been consumed in the car on the ride home. We didn't stay at Elkwallow long, it was just too busy and too hot in the open sun. As we were leaving, I counted at least three dozen women in line to use the restroom. Yikes!
What? Hikers on the Elkwallow Trail? People actually hike this pleasant trail from Mathews Arm campground instead of driving? Well good for them! The Elkwallow Trail comes out on Mathews Arm road near the campground entrance station. We hiked through the campground on our way to Overall Run Falls. The campground was full but didn't feel it, as the sites are good-sized and the setting peaceful. There was good color here and families out enjoying the fine weather. Plenty of hikers were coming up the Mathews Arm Trail as we descended, some looking happier than others (it's a strenuous climb up from the falls if you're not used to it).
By the number of hikers encountered on the way to the falls, I expected it to be quite crowded there. Crossing a dry feeder and from the low flow of Keyser Run, I didn't expect much to see in the way of water at the falls. The overlooks were not too crowded, and a single ribbon made up the falls. Overall Run Falls was a pleasant out and back, providing good views of decent color down the Overall Run valley. I made it back to the AT/Tuscarora junction first, and parked on a rock to contemplate next weekend's hike and watch hikers pass. I don't know why so many hikers get confused here. We've directed a number of hikers at the Tuscarora junction, some with just the NPS visitor map, some with a map from a book, some with no map at all. I talked with a trio of backpackers here. The female of the group was wearing "foot gloves". She spoke quite highly of them, her only complaint being that they didn't keep her feet warm. I just can't imagine hiking in those things!
The plan was to catch sunset from the rocks behind Hogback Overlook. Normally a quiet place hidden just enough from the car people, it had now been discovered as the low angle sun was illuminating them. We found a place to sit, but people were crawling all around. I found it somewhat amusing actually, and I think I'm in a number of other people's pictures. We had arrived too early, and the legs would seize if we held out for sunset, so we took in the low angle sun for awhile, then started our descent via the Sugarloaf Trail and Pole Bridge Link back to Fourway. There were other hikers at Fourway at sunset, though they didn't look like the flashlight carrying kind. We had lights, but didn't have much need for them, as our exit would be on high quality Keyser Run fire road. 3.5 miles of fire road walking in the dark. I didn't turn on my LED lamp until reaching the Bolen Cemetery, and could have gotten by without it all the way, as the low angle full moon was casting long shadows with enough light to see (sort of). Night hiking down fire roads, ahhhhh, love it!

Pictures

SNP central, 10/16- Whiteoak Canyon, Stony Man, Robertson

Making up for last weekend's night descent of Whiteoak Canyon, this hike would start, in daylight, going up Whiteoak Canyon. After many weeks dry, it now has water. Steve picked me up at 6am, and we were on the Whiteoak Canyon Trail in Berry Hollow at 8:15am. Only one other car there. At 48 degrees, not too cold, but the wind had quite a bite to it, and it would only get windier on the climb to ridge line.

Not ten minutes in, a rustling off to the right, surely a deer, turned out to be a young bear. It was running away and was quickly out of sight. A bear sighting early in the hike, and maybe this will be the "bear nirvana" hike... nope, that was the only one. In a race with the sun to the lower falls, we both arrived at the same time. I'm always looking for a dark or shaded waterfall scene to get long exposure shots. With the help of a few clouds, it worked out right well. It was mostly sunny in the canyon, but somewhat gloomy fast moving clouds were ahead on ridge line, though cloud base looked to be higher than anything in the Park. It would be a shame to have, say, Hawksbill, be above the clouds, in October, and not be there to see it (to see what that looks like, check out my SNPc20061008 album). Not often having Whiteoak falls exclusively, I took a little extra time to explore the lower and middle falls. Just how long could we have this canyon to ourselves? I bet that we'd meet hikers coming down from the Drive before reaching the upper falls... nope! We owned the upper falls too. Cool! The first hikers were encountered beyond the bridge crossing past the upper falls. First a few, then a group of perhaps 30. We had hit Whiteoak at a good time.

We'd left the best color behind before reaching the Limberlost Trail junction. Limberlost and Crescent Rock trails would get us to ridge line at Crescent Rock Overlook. Out on Crescent Rock, the wind was strong enough to make standing difficult. Gusts were easily 50 mph. It was mostly sunny now, but still a pretty wicked wind chill. The wind keep most folks near or in their cars. I saw one guy getting around on crutches here (last week there was a guy wearing a neck brace headed down to Camp Hoover- I can picture myself hiking out here in that condition). The best color was below, sheltered from the gales. An out and back to Bettys Rock for similar views, then down to the AT headed north to Stony Man.

Very few hikers were out on the AT. We made good time to Skyland, stopping, of course, below Timber Hollow Overlook for the standard picture of that overlook's sentinel tree. I had to wait out a few car people to get a clear shot. Skyland stables looked quiet, and no horses were in the field. Stony Man would be crowded- it always is when the Drive is open, but it has views, so that's where we went. People were huddled about, trying to fight off the wind. I had to hug low to keep from getting blown off. A few brave souls ventured on down the rocks. Stony Man was indeed crowded, but wait...

Next up, get to Skyland ASAP for a blackberry shake. Shortest route- the horse trail. Horse trails are dull, right? Not this one! All these years, not a tenth of a mile away, right there in sight of what most consider to be "the" Stony Man summit, lies outstanding rock ledges with fantastic views south. Skyland, Hawksbill, Fork Mountain, you name it, and virtually nobody else here. How had I missed this all these years? Forget the crowds- this is my primary Stony Man destination now (sorry about giving out trade secrets). We had to delay our shake for a few minutes to take in the views. My now favorite horse trail.

Skyland- like Big Meadows last weekend- filled parking lots with cars lined up along the road. After the lunch crowd but before the dinner crowd, we got a table in the tap room and prompt service. Now, the shakes at Skyland aren't your wayside standard fare variety. No, the blackberry shakes here don't come out of a machine with flavoring added. This is the real deal- super rich, super creamy, super thick, made with real blackberries and whipped cream on top, out of this world. You haven't had a Shenandoah blackberry shake until you've had one at Skyland. Trust me. It took some time for the shake to arrive (they apparently don't get many requests for them, as the waitress didn't know they had them and had to look up how to make them), but well worth the wait.

Except for Robertson, the rest of the hike was downhill, first via the horse trail from Skyland north entrance to Old Rag fire road at Comer's Deadening, then Old Rag and Berry Hollow fire roads and SR-600 back to the Whiteoak lot. I really like fire road walking this time of year. One can look up at the color without much worry of footing. There were a several hikers on Robertson, but surely nothing like Old Rag. The lowering sun cast long shadows, and unlimited visibility showed distant ridges south. The wind was slacking and it was very comfortable on Robertson. Much less color on the east side, still a lot of green with good color to come. A fast return to the fire road and a foot burner pace got us back to the car not long after sunset. On the descent, majestic Old Rag glowed golden through the trees. Too bad there's not a clear line of sight to Old Rag from the fire road, it would be postcard perfect.

Pictures
4 years ago above the clouds on Hawksbill

note: descending Old Rag fire road, we could hear the helicopter used during an Old Rag rescue. There was a ranger's car at the fire road junction, so we figured there must be a rescue in progress. Information on Bob Look's blog http://oldragpatrolsbyrsl-blook.blogspot.com/2010/10/blog-post_18.html and full details at http://silverspringwanderer.blogspot.com/2010/10/orms-helicopter-rescue.html ("Silver Spring Wanderer" looks like an excellent blog, a bookmark for sure). The previous weekend we'd heard mention of a rescue on Stony Man. A few details at http://uspppressroom.blogspot.com/2010/10/daring-hoist-rescue-in-shenandoah.html

SNP central, 10/9- Doubletop, Hawksbill; Whiteoak at night

The streak of fine weather weekends continues as we head into fall color season. Doubletop would be an ideal place to observe the foliage and avoid the leaf-peeping crowds. Fellow hiker Steve picked me up at 6am and we met my brother John in Sperryville before 8am. This would be John's first time on Doubletop. Having two vehicles opens up numerous hike options. This one would start from the end of state route 648 west of Syria and end at the Whiteoak lot in Berry Hollow. The big climbs would be Doubletop, Mill Prong, and the AT out of Fishers Gap. This 21 miler would accumulate 4800 feet of uphill and over a mile of downhill (oh, my poor knees!). Big Meadows at the halfway point meant lunch at the wayside (this is the year of blackberry shakes).

The climb to Monkeyhead on the unofficial Doubletop Trail took only an hour. The blazing was good, causing pause only a few times to locate the next blue blaze where the trail became indistinct. The climb is steep and steady. We had fine views from Monkeyhead, the rock outcrop just west of the first peak of Doubletop: Fork Mountain to the south, Rapidan drainage basin to the southwest with Hazeltop beyond, massive Haywood Mountain (Spitler Knoll) dominating to the west and northwest, and Stony Man north. There was patchy color about, and the leaves have that look that they're soon to turn. The hike continued over the main peak, down to the saddle, then up and over the second peak. Getting to the second peak of Doubletop is rather challenging. There's one difficult stretch to get through, short but very steep. There's not much to grab hold of initially, then laurel makes a good handhold (watch out for one mean laurel that has a razor-sharp tooth- it snagged my palm). Beyond, there are good views from a rock next to a pine tree where the trail bends. From there, Doubletop's main peak stands out, and from atop the rock, Old Rag is visible to the north. The trail eventually meets the orange-blazed Wilhite Wagon Trail, which leads down to Rapidan Road. Before descending it, we visited the somewhat overgrown viewpoint a bit further out along the Doubletop Trail. Old Rag stands out from this viewpoint, and the red roof of PATC Meadows Cabin can be seen below. The descent on Wilhite Wagon Trail was easy- clear and well marked with orange WMA trail markers every hundred feet or so.

Finishing Doubletop ended the solitude. Folks were camping along the Rapidan, and it appears to be bow hunting season. Camp Hoover had ongoing tours, and a steady stream of hikers flowed down Mill Prong to Rapidan Camp. Milam Gap was packed with vehicles and one had to be careful crossing the Drive. Now, there was a pretty strange sight at Tanners Ridge cemetery- a tent set up on the southern edge, with a food bag hanging from a branch and roped off to a tree. First, I can't imagine that camping is allowed here, and second, that food bag was at best six feet above the ground! It would be a piñata for most any bear. I have a picture of it in the photo album.

Blackberry shakes awaited at Big Meadows Wayside. Tanners Ridge road would take us to the Drive and a short walk to Big Meadows, but there's a horse trail that leads to the stables just prior to the Drive. A new trail for me, so we took it, bailing out onto the service road that is part of the Lewis Falls Trail. I don't think I was prepared for just how crowded Big Meadows was. Cars were parked on both sides of the Drive and people all about. There was a line at the wayside grill, but they still had blackberry shakes. We consumed our fries and shake on a log near some trees off to the side. Playing the silly tourist bit, we all had our pictures taken with the CCC worker statue in front of the Visitor's Center.

We were running late... we had spent nearly an hour in the Big Meadows vortex. Friends were doing a shorter hike north of here, and we planned to rendezvous along the AT between Fishers Gap and Hawksbill. I had estimated we'd be on Hawksbill around 3pm. Well, we were just getting to Big Meadows at 3pm, Fishers Gap at 4:30pm, and Hawksbill ~6pm. Needless to say, we never met up. They, of course, saw a bear, and a big one at that. My bear mojo ain't working. We took the nature trail north from Big Meadows, then branched off onto the deserted horse trail to Fishers Gap. Other than car noise from the Drive, this trail was pleasant (and a segment not done before). Fishers Gap Overlook was closed, so we looped through it before picking up the AT at Fishers Gap. With the western exposure, it was a warm walk on the AT along Franklin Cliffs and the following climb to the saddle between Nakedtop and Hawksbill, with golden hazy views into the sunlight. Access to Hawksbill was via the Salamander Trail.

Ravens were playing above Hawksbill's cliffs. They were soaring and diving, flying in formation, stalling, hovering, and spiraling. They were fascinating to watch. To get good pictures, set manual focus to infinity, zoom to the max, and use the viewfinder to follow. Long shadows were being cast by the golden rays of the low angle sun, but we were in no hurry now, as we knew we this hike would be ending well after dark. We departed Hawksbill at 6:15pm with six miles to go. Cedar Run would provide a shorter route, but given the choice of it or Whiteoak Canyon for night descent, we chose Whiteoak Canyon. We made it to the Whiteoak junction on the horse trail before turning on headlamps. At 40 minutes past sunset, it was effectively nighttime.

Wait weeks and weeks for rain to replenish the waterfalls, and wind up hiking scenic Whiteoak Canyon in the dark? That's just wrong, though we did have that trail to ourselves. The falls were heard but not seen. My LED lamp was on the weak side, making that descent seem long and treacherous. The hike ended at 9pm, and home at midnight, 18 hours after setting out. A long day, indeed. This weekend, making up for not seeing Whiteoak's falls- the hike will start by climbing Whiteoak Canyon (and no, not before dawn). The colors should be getting good.
Pictures