AT SNP central/south, 5/15: here come the thru-hikers!

A final leg stretcher before a 2-week backpack on the AT in NC/GA. An "easy" route on the AT from Bootens Gap in the southern central district of SNP south to Smith Roach Gap in the northern south district. With a family event in Richmond that evening, a 5am departure was required. Just myself and Steve on this hike. After a shuttle, we were on the trail a little before 8am. We'd meet three waves of NOBO thru-hikers on this hike- morning, those leaving Bearfence Hut; noon, those having left Hightop Hut; and afternoon, those having left Pinefield Hut. Don't recall what the count was, but the leading wave of NOBO thru-hikers is reaching SNP and will peak over the next few weeks. It's always a delight meeting them. We'll often design a hike to have a southbound AT stretch to maximize encounters.

We had fresh legs for the Bearfence rock scramble. It had eluded us the past two times here, so I've been wanting to return here for a while now. It's easier with fresh legs. Bearfence is fun and provides excellent views. Get there early or get there late to avoid the crowds. I'd considered being here at some future time for a sunrise, but Bluff Mountain hides the horizon, so sunset is probably a better choice.

There were two climbs to deal with before the drop down to Swift Run Gap- Baldface and Saddleback. A young (one year old perhaps) black bear crossed the trail ahead of us a bit north of Pocosin Cabin. Baldface offers a decent viewpoint west from a rock outcropping. Our longer break came at South River Picnic Area. It was here that I met thru-hiker "Willard" (named after the "Apocalypse Now" character). We talked trail for a good bit, and I showed him the AT profile from the central district map. He'd seen one bear in SNP already. He was planning to get to Big Meadows in time for a blackberry shake and was enjoying SNP so far. He felt the main pulse was about a week behind him. This was his two month "trailiversary".

Hightop is the southbound climb out of Swift Run Gap. A fairly steady climb. The day was a bit warmer than hoped, so it was a bit more work than expected. The reward is an excellent view west from the top, with views of Hanse, Beldor Ridge, Rocky Mount, and many other peaks in the south district. Trayfoot could be seen towering over all in the distance. Pressed for time, we didn't stop in at the shelter. Done by 3:30pm, 16.5 miles with 2900' climbing in a little over 7.5 hours. I was surprisingly exhausted from an otherwise "simple" hike.

Ready or not, here comes the backpack! 15 days on the AT, as two backpacks (and no true "zero" days) to get from Fontana Dam to Springer (Amicalola Falls State Park actually). Our most ambitious undertaking to date. This will be as close to the thru-hiker experience as I'll likely ever get- rain, food drops, rain, hostels, rain, shelters, rain, tenting. Nervous, apprehensive, and excited all at the same time.

Pictures: https://goo.gl/photos/2dS2hJyibJBTm55d9

SNP central: Wildflower Weekend

The radar looked ominous predawn Saturday, but the forecast of an early dry frontal passage proved true. The best weather is often immediately after a cold front, and this was no exception. The dark clouds broke as we early birds took to the trail, a linear hike from the Old Rag lot at Nethers north to the Buck Hollow trailhead on US-211. Along on this hike was fellow hiker Steve and my brother John. Steve had suggested Robertson, and I was itching for Hannah Run. With John in the mix, we had two vehicles, so the hike could include Robertson and Hannah Run, both major climbs. Sweet!

The Old Rag lot was already filling up upon arrival. Plenty of signs are posted stating that the upper lot is permanently closed, but some folks still drive up there with hopes. A ranger was parked up there to explain the situation. As most other hikers headed up the Old Rag Ridge Trail, we walked on up Weakley Hollow fire road a bit over a mile to the Robertson Mountain trailhead. Robertson is a favorite climb. A lot of work with a fine payout at the top- great views and most often people-free. A special treat was found on that climb- mountain laurel in bloom! Certainly the earliest in the season I've seen it blooming in the Park. Higher up, azalea was still in bloom. A good wildflower showing... after all, it was "Wildflower Weekend".

The wind was the big story of the day. It was howling up on Robertson, enough so that I had to be careful maneuvering about on the exposed rocks. Strong enough to take my breath away when I faced into it. Gusts to 45 mph, easily. Wow! What was it like up on Hawksbill?! The cool crisp gale dried the sweat right away and kept the bugs at bay. It was ideal hiking weather. After a drop down to Old Rag fire road, a few minor climbs followed before the prolonged downhill along Indian Run and Nicholson Hollow. Pink lady's slipper graced the trail along Indian Run. At times it was difficult to distinguish between the sound of the wind in the trees and the rushing of the Hughes River along the Nicholson Hollow Trail. It didn't matter- both were sounds of the great outdoors. I could sense that this was only my second time on Nicholson Hollow Trail between Corbin Cabin and Hannah Run. That is one peaceful stretch of trail.

The crossing of the Hughes River is on some well placed boulders. At the crossing, I overheard a hiker telling his companion the difficulty he'd had crossing here before the boulders were placed. Years ago, I took more than one plunge into the Hughes River attempting to cross at Corbin Mountain. A special "thank you" to PATC for taming the Hughes River crossings. Stream levels are a bit on the low side, but this still must surely be a daunting crossing at high water.

Hannah Run... perhaps my favorite "Hazel Country" trail. A fine walk in the woods. It's got the slope I like, a climb I can commit to... up to a point. I always stop at the chimney. I've run out of silly ideas for pictures there. No good sitting place at the chimney, so I waited for John and Steve at the Hannah Run crossing, one of few breaks in the climb. The climb out of Hannah Run is one of the steepest in the Park. A lot (a whole lot) of trail work has been done here. Again, much thanks to PATC. The trail terminates at Pinnacles Overlook. At the top of my wish list is a connector trail from here to the AT just south of the Pinnacle. From here it's usually a Drive walk south to pick up the AT at Jewell Hollow Overlook, but today it was north, downhill to the Buck Hollow trailhead at Meadow Spring parking. With the wind, it was hard to hear cars coming. Oh how I wish for an alternate route! I walked the stone walls a good bit of the way. The Buck Hollow downhill was an easy uneventful end to the hike. I've seen bear here before, but this was a bear-less hike.

I hope all got out on this fine weekend. Yet another successful "Wildflower Weekend" in SNP.

Pictures: https://goo.gl/photos/58wa4oewhvUt7DDf6

SNP north: "The Caterpillar Forest"

It was eerie out on the Neighbor Mountain Trail this past weekend. I've been hiking in Shenandoah for some years now, but had never hiked through a caterpillar forest before. The day was going to be a warm one, so it was an early start from Elkwallow Wayside for me and fellow hiker Steve. The early start was dual purpose- to beat the heat, and to finish in time to have a fine greasy meal at the wayside afterwards. We were on the trail shortly after 8am (early for non-marathon distances). The route was to be one giant loop, encompassing both west and east sides of the Park. From Elkwallow, we descended the Appalachian Trail and Jeremys Run Trail, then climbed Knob Mountain Cutoff and headed south on the Knob Mountain Trail. I had a good feeling about this hike. I've seen bears during previous hikes on nearly all the trail segments we'd be doing. Last year was a very dry year for me, bear-wise. Sure enough, on the climb up Knob Mountain came my first bear sighting of the year. A medium small fellow, took off running when he saw us. OK!

Ticks... no shortage of them out there. I never escape Knob Mountain without picking up a few. Black flies are out there too, those little blood suckers. Knob summit offers no views, just a post at the top to let you know you're there. It's a fine "walk in the woods" trail- well graded with excellent footing (as in very few rocks). The entire route was like this. Beyond Knob summit came the long switchbacked descent to Jeremys Run.

A large hiking group was heading up Jeremys Run Trail as we arrived (large as in 20+, with more stragglers trailing). We did a water resupply here. Steve's SteriPEN "Classic" did not like getting plunked into Jeremys Run. It seems to be a bit less durable than the "Adventurer" model. Just into the Neighbor Mountain climb, Steve spotted yellow lady's slipper beside the trail. I though they only came in pink! Then the trail got strange. The first indication of what to come was the light sound of something falling from the canopy near Jeremys Run. This was soon followed by a truly freaked-out hiker (part of that large group), asking "are the bugs always like this here?!". Yeah, the gnats and black flies, yep, they're pretty standard. That's not what he meant. He meant the caterpillars. Lot's of them. I still wasn't sure what he was on about. He turned around and asked if there were any still on him. There were. He was not having a pleasant time. "Get them off of me!". Well, now this was different, there I am picking caterpillars off this poor guy's backside. This guy was ready to be off the trail, and just may be scarred for life. OK... on up Neighbor Mountain. The stuff falling from the canopy got louder, and soon we entered the "caterpillar forest". Thousands of them, inch-worm caterpillars, each hanging in the air from its little silk thread. Dodging them left and right. They were everywhere. It was really cool! The noise we were hearing was "frass" dropping from the canopy, and the creepy crawlers were cankerworms. It was a unique experience, I must say. This must happen every year in numerous locations, but I had not seen it like this before. If one had a phobia of insects, this was not the place to be. I could understand why that poor guy was as spooked as he was. The caterpillar zone didn't climb very high, and were were soon past them. I was still plucking them off me at the AT junction.

The heat was on by now, and it came time to decide whether to stick with the original route or follow the AT back to Elkwallow, where a cold blackberry shake awaited. After a break at Bryd's Nest #4, we pushed on with the original route, crossing the Drive and descending Hull School Trail. It was muggy on the east side (is it me, or does it always seem to be more humid on the east side than on the west side?). After a water resupply from the North Fork Thornton River came the third big climb of the day- Hull School to a saddle, then steep Fork Mountain Trail and Piney Ridge Trail. That uphill did me in. The blackberry shake awaiting at the Wayside drove me on. I stopped to snap a shot of a black snake across the Fork Mountain Trail. Steve was taking a more deliberate pace, and I waited for him near the AT junction. Folks staying at Range View cabin were gathering wood, and when one asked about our route, their response was "all in one day?" (the second time asked that that on this hike). They mentioned the blackberry shake... "Oh yeah!" was my reply.

The mouth was watering on the AT slide down to Elkwallow. We got there at quarter to six. Door: locked. Hmmm... "no, no, NOOOO!"... they closed at 5:30pm! Talk about a letdown! Oh man, I was so ready for some high fat calories. Deflated, I settled for a buck-fifty root beer from the wayside soda machine and a sub picked up on the way home. I'm still recovering from that calorie deficit.

What's up with the closed overlooks? Pass Mountain, Beahms Gap, and Jeremys Run overlooks were closed. Blocked-off closed. I suspect others are closed too. Some sort of stimulus money renovations?

Pictures