SNP central: Staunton River/AT/Jones Mountain

Risking an overload of hiker activity due to Shenandoah's 75th anniversary celebration this past Saturday, I set out on a 20 miler with co-hikers John and Steve not far from the thick of things in the middle of the central district. The hike began around 8:30am at the Graves Mill trailhead on the east side, route 662 from Wolftown. First up, an easy walk along the Rapidan River on the Graves Mill Trail, then up along the Staunton River on the Staunton River Trail. The weather was nice and the "rivers" gently flowing.
The two crossings of the Staunton River were easy with the low water conditions. We took the standard shot of the slab-pile up above the first crossing. The upper portion of the Staunton River Trail had a wild look to it, a bit overgrown, with nettles encroaching on the trail, pretty standard for summer. Not so bad as to warrant attaching the pants legs. The trail is somewhat shorter than the trail markers indicate, at about 3.8 miles.
Enjoying the lack of a blazing sun (the forecast called for "mostly sunny"), we ambled up Fork Mountain Road to The Sag. Butterflies ahead on the road were staying just out of camera range, repeatedly taking off and landing further up the road as we approached. At "The Sag", the short version of this hike would go left and take Jones Mountain Trail to Cat Knob. I've done that segment of Jones Mountain Trail only once! The longer versions involve descending to Laurel Prong via the Fork Mountain Trail, and old switchbacked road. Free of leaves (seemingly overly so), this was an easy descent. I've waded knee deep in leaves here in late autumn. Wide Laurel Prong was an easy crossing on small rocks. Our first encounter of other hikers was at the crossing. A short distance further and we were on the Laurel Prong Trail. The moderate version of this hike would be to take Laurel Prong to Cat Knob, but this was the long route, so right we went, down to to Camp Hoover.
Camp Hoover was open for ranger led tours, and there was slightly more activity here than usual, surely a spillover from Big Meadows a couple miles up trail. I had stumbled upon here once before as a tour began and joined in. This time we were here just for a water, food, and a rest break. On the climb out to Milam Gap, we met only three sets of hikers; the fear of hiker overload unwarranted. It was still early, and I suspect things got busier as the day progressed. Big Rock Falls was pretty as always, and the Mill Prong trails a pleasant and quiet walk. I expected to hear the activity at Big Meadows from Milam Gap, but I forgot that Big Meadows was over a mile away. The Drive was busier, perhaps.
Picking up the AT at Milam Gap, we headed south, climbing Hazeltop. This stretch has what I call the "straightaway", a nearly quarter mile straight line of sight segment of the AT. I zoomed on ahead so I could get pictures at the far end as John and Steve came into view. Just shy of the summit, a short side trail leads to nice views west. Instead of the forecast sun, the sky remained overcast, keeping temperatures comfortable.
The mile stretch of Laurel Prong between the AT and Cat Knob is not a particular favorite of mine, rocky and too many pointless ups and downs (PUDs), but it serves as a frequent connector. The Cat Knob Trail doesn't mess with that- it's a steep one, gaining just under 500 feet in a half mile. On the climb, I found some lost notes from a scout group that had passed through here earlier in the day. The notes indicated an overnight at Jones Mountain Cabin, so they were ahead on the Jones Mountain Trail. It also indicated they'd be at the cabin for lunch, so were hopefully well ahead. I pocketed the notes just in case I caught up with them (but hoping not to).
It was a quiet and peaceful walk out the Jones Mountain Trail. I had somehow pulled ahead and was feeling the solitude. This is the place for that. The trail meanders along the ridge of Jones Mountain, hitting a couple knobs before getting to the big payoff, Bear Church Rock. Ahead at the second knob I heard voices... lots of them; I had caught up with the scout group. They were on top of the second knob wondering where Bear Church Rock was hiding. I assured them it was still further along (it's always further out than one might expect), down from the knob. I led the way. I'd better be right! Just as I started to doubt myself, the short laurel-shrouded spur to Bear Church Rock appeared. There was plenty of room for all, and I was unexpectedly excited to see the look of wonder on their faces and hear their exclamations upon being at Bear Church Rock for the first time. It is an awesome place! John and Steve arrived shortly, and all were jovial. The scout group soon left, and Bear Church Rock was as I almost always find it, just it and the group I'm with.
From Bear Church Rock, it was nowhere but down, unfriendly to the knees, but on quality trail and old road. Down Jones Mountain Trail to the Staunton River, then back out Staunton River Trail and Graves Mill Trail. As the old road beside the Staunton River suddenly disappears, I recalled the massive flooding of exactly 16 years ago that reshaped this area. Time (and PATC) has healed old wounds.
Pictures

SNP central: Corbin Hollow, Hawksbill, Rose River

I'm running out of hikes to do from the Old Rag parking lot in Nethers- other than Old Rag itself (it's been nearly six years?). The hike this past Saturday was the third recent hike to start from there. Fellow hiker Steve and I met my brother at the end point on Rose River fire road, then drove to the Old Rag lot. Only (only?) 8:30am, and the lot was filling fast. We hiked with the throngs up route 600 to the Park boundary, the throngs branching off onto the Old Rag's Ridge Trail, us sticking to Weakley Hollow fire road.
My eyesight seemed foggy. Had I forgotten to clean my glasses? No, they were clean. It was the humidity, the air was saturated, or supersaturated, causing the glasses to fog. Yukky grungy weather, another one of "those" hikes. It was warm but not hot, but the air was still. Hopefully we'd find a breeze higher up, and higher up we'd be, this time on Corbin Hollow Trail. Of all my miles in the Park, this would be only my third time on this trail. Once upon a time, a circuit hike of Robertson and Corbin Hollow would be just the right distance, but with 16+ milers there days, Corbin Hollow rarely appears on my radar. After an easy boulder crossing of Brokenback Run, the climb begins, though not as aggressive as Robertson. This is one fine trail! It has a remote feel, and likely sees little traffic. With a slight breeze, my glasses finally cleared. As expected, the laurel along here was well past peak. While nothing special, there was a stretch along the upper trail where the forest was more open, everything green, and I paused just to take in the serenity. It was one of those "neat place" moments.
The trail terminates on Old Rag fire road, Robertson Mountain Trail a short distance down, and Corbin Mountain Trail a ways up. We'd walk Old Rag fire road up to Limberlost. Being higher up, there was the occasional aging laurel bloom and assorted wildflowers. While stopped to get water beyond Comer's Deadening, a ranger drove up and asked where we started. We said "the Old Rag lot", and he said he'd seen us there. Before he had the chance to tell us we were going the wrong way, I told him our route. "That's one nice route you've got there!", he replied. I suspect they patrol Old Rag fire road on these busy weekends, as I know from my hikes here that a few hikers make the wrong turn way down at the fire road junction and wind up misplaced.
There were folk enjoying a stroll on the packed-gravel Limberlost Trail. For us, it was a connector to Crescent Rock Trail, which we'd take to the overlook then down to the AT. Laurel was past peak even here, with the many blossoms on the ground telling that it had been a fine display. Crescent Rock Overlook was our first rest break of the day. The overlook had the standard car folk, some setting up lawn chairs in the shade, even someone taking their ferret out for a walk. I headed over to Crescent Rock when I saw it was free, and scrambled around there more than on previous visits.
We picked up the AT below Crescent Rock and headed south a short distance to Hawksbill Gap. The steep fire road walk to Hawksbill summit is a favorite climb, one that can really get the heart thumping. Being warm and humid, it was not my intention to power up to the summit, but there was a hiker a couple hundred yards ahead of me, and I was determined to pass him. It was looking like I'd met my match, until he stopped about three quarters of the way up. "That's some pace you've got there!" I said as I passed without stopping. Surely he did not know he was in a race. Bottom to top in just under 16 minutes. There were folk at the summit, but not crowded. The guy I had passed was soon there, and we talked about the the AT (he was from NJ near the Delaware Water Gap). John and Steve arrived, and we wound up talking to a couple from Massachusetts that were spending the week in the Park. We gave them an assortment of "must do" hike ideas.
The day had seen a lot of clouds, keeping the temperature under control but the humidity high. Towering cumulus were lofting into the thin overcast, and a rain shaft was evident to the east. We had every expectation of getting wet on this hike (rain wet, in addition to sweat wet), but heard thunder only once. We descended to the AT on the Salamander Trail, then headed south to Fishers Gap, taking in a view at Franklin Cliffs and admiring the last of the mountain laurel. We broke from the AT at Fishers Gap and descended Rose River Loop Trail. Rose River Falls was looking a bit lazy, quite different than when we'd seen it frozen in December. With darkening skies the crowds had left, and it was quite peaceful done there. Just past the falls we encountered a good-sized rattlesnake across the trail. We got our pictures, then Steve (the snake charmer) coaxed it off the trail. We met a couple hikers a bit further on, warning them about the snake. They'd just seen two small copperhead on the bridge over Hogcamp Branch. One was still on the bridge bottom rail when we got there, but slithered into an open beam under the bridge.
Seeing several venomous snakes just prior to a bushwhack up to Rose River fire road was a little disconcerting. The bushwhack was a critical part of the route, saving nearly two miles and over 300 feet by not staying on Rose River Loop Trail all the way to Dark Hollow Falls. This was to be a retrace of the shortcut taken back in December, but where the GPS told me to veer left uphill, dense vegetation forced up right. A light rain began to fall. This was not working out so well. I knew we had to get well away from Hogcamp Branch, but the vegetation was in the way. John had seen a couple orange markers on trees, and luckily, we hit the fire road at a switchback. Veering right any more than we did and we could have kept climbing parallel to the road. As it was, we joined the road a quarter mile further upstream than intended.
Rose River fire road is rather rocky in places, the reason I don't come this way too often, but each time feels less rocky than the last, and the downhill in the light rain was easy going. I counted three orange newts on the descent, until my glasses once again fogged in the saturated air. I'm ready for a dry hike.

Pictures

SNP central: Corbin Mtn crawdad, Hannah Run thunderstorm

Eventually, nice weather and hike day will meet up. We were off by a couple days this past Saturday, another warm muggy day in Shenandoah. An early departure this time of year isn't really all that early- out the door at 6am, the sun is already up. This route took some thinking... how to hike Hannah Run with as little overlap from recent hikes while keeping the distance and elevation gain within reason. I could come up with no boundary access route. Boundary access is preferred, as it gets the primary climb done early. But that was not to be, as fellow hiker Steve and I set out on a 16 miler from quiet Pinnacles picnic area on Skyline Drive, central district Shenandoah National Park.
We'd be spending little time on the Appalachian Trail, so no thru-hiker candy this hike. That weight was replaced by rain gear, a forecast of "thunderstorms likely, mainly after 1pm". We had encountered some wet roads on the drive over, but the trails were pleasantly dry. The hike began southbound on the AT for about a mile, passing that rock ledge above the Drive which offers a fine view of Old Rag and Thorofare Mountain. We'd branch off just ahead on the AT, descending Corbin Cabin Cutoff down to the Hughes River. The mountain laurel was in full display along the AT and the upper half of Corbin Cabin Cutoff. Reaching Corbin Cabin, the crossing of the Hughes River was very easy on the well placed boulders. A short distance along on Nicholson Hollow Trail, we crossed Indian Run on the new earth and rock bridge built by PATC. Nice job!
Up next was the climb up Indian Run Trail. It was warm and humid, but a gentle breeze provided a little cooling. Another fine stand of mountain laurel along the upper portion of Indian Run made for a pleasant stroll as I paused for Steve to arrive. Down and up, it was time for down again, dropping once more to the Hughes River on the winding Corbin Mountain Trail. The trail twists and turns and snakes its way along the south side and east arm of Thorofare Mountain. The trail was frequently fragrant, but I could never determine the source. A trail maintainer was working the upper stretch. He looked quite exhausted, wearing bug netting with a cloud of gnats about. Soon after, a group of backpacking scouts were recuperating from their climb up Corbin Mountain. After rounding the east arm of Thorofare, the trail gets down to business, dropping down to the Hughes River via several switchbacks. At one switchback, I found a most unusual critter on the trail- a crawfish! (..or crayfish or crawdad, take yer pick). The little guy blended in with the wet trail, and was defending his territory, his little pincers raised at me. I got a great picture of the crawfish before he burrowed into a shallow pool. Now that was cool!
Another easy boulder crossing of the Hughes River put us back on Nicholson Hollow Trail. We took a good long break here before the major climb of the day, Hannah Run. What was I thinking when I put this hike together? A 2200 foot climb in the heat beyond the halfway point of a long hike? That's crazy! I slogged my way on up that trail, lacking the usual energy I have for Hannah Run. There's one break in the trail, where it drops down to cross Hannah Run. I stayed here a good spell, with Steve eventually arriving, looking more exhausted than I felt. During my break, I saw another crawfish in Hannah Run! I also found a couple deer tick.
As we began the climb from Hannah Run, a cooling outflow boundary hit; a storm was approaching, on cue, not long after the promised 1pm. This was one welcome thundershower! I hurried on to ridgeline and geared up. No close lightning and not much rain, but the cooling factor made the remaining climb less of a burden. Quickly losing the rain gear, the light cooling rain persisted the rest of the climb to Pinnacles Overlook. Upper Hannah Run, usually a guaranteed great spot for mountain laurel, was lacking considerably this year.
We watched the storm pull away from Pinnacles Overlook as we took another long break. To continue a hike from here, one must walk along Skyline Drive. Why oh why is there no connector trail to the AT?!? It's a bit over a mile either direction to pick up the AT, this time downhill north on Skyline Drive. Our options were to walk the rain-slicked retaining walls or wade through unmowed shoulder grass. We started out on the walls but moved to the slightly less dangerous shoulder. There really needs to be another option here (and no, not bushwhacking).
After a climb up Byrds Nest access road, we rejoined the AT at Byrds Nest shelter. There was nobody here! Where were all the thru-hikers? Oh well. Up and over The Pinnacle then down below Jewell Hollow Overlook and back to the mostly empty Pinnacles picnic area to end the hike. Laurel at The Pinnacle was a mix of open and closed buds, but a good display was found on the descent. A unique route, something that's getting harder to come by.

Pictures

SNP north: Mt Marshall/AT/Bluff

When late Friday afternoon rolls around and no hike route has been devised, one of several default routes is usually chosen. So was the case Saturday, doing a now standard trek, Mount Marshall, Appalachian Trail, and Bluff Trail in the north district of Shenandoah National Park. Once considered a long day hike, the 13.4-mile Marshall/AT/Bluff circuit has grown into a 21 mile trek by starting from the Park boundary (which adds 4.4 miles), adding an out and back to Compton Peak (another 3.0 miles), and a couple tenths exploring the rock outcrops on North Marshall. The Mount Marshall Trail has good laurel patches as does North Marshall on the AT, and we'd be hiking south on the AT meeting thru-hikers, so this was an easy decision. It would be just me and Steve on this outing, arriving at the Park boundary north of Washington, VA shortly after 8am. There was a sad sight as we approached the parking area- a lame doe with two fawn. The doe was struggling to get around on three legs, a front leg injured and unable to put weight on it.
The weather was pleasant, temperatures in the 70's and low dew point, though the humidity would be on the rise as the day progressed. The hike began with the nearly thousand foot ascent to Thorofare Gap between North Marshall and The Peak. There were several fine stands of mountain laurel in full display along here, the taller "tree" variety, as opposed to the shorter bush variety seen through much of Hazel Country last weekend. At Thorofare Gap, there's no hint of the old trail up The Peak; the cairn marker disappeared over a year ago, plus this isn't the time of year to go there (poison ivy anyone?).
Once past the gap, the Mount Marshall Trail remains fairly level as is traverses the east slope of North Marshall, rounding ravines and crossing several streams. It's along these ravines that the best laurel stands are found, and being the taller variety, produces a tunnel effect. In my many hikes here, this is the first time capturing laurel at peak. Very nice! With the quality trail, we completed the 5.7 miles segment in a little over two hours, meeting no other hikers.
From Jenkins Gap, the burn area on the south slope of Compton was visible as a patch of bare brown trees. We had hiked through there a couple weeks after the February fire, and now we'd get a chance to see the new vegetation. We picked up the AT at Jenkins Gap and started the Compton climb. More laurel, then the burn area, which had new low green growth and wildflowers amidst the blackened trees. I'd brought along a bag of candy for the thru-hikers. I expected to have some left to hand out at Gravel Springs Hut, but was depleted before finishing the out and back to Compton! We met a group of thru-hikers taking a break at Compton Spring, and a few more on the way back south. Just as well, as there was nobody else at Gravel Springs Hut when we were there later in the day.
We had Compton Peak west view to ourselves, other than a lone photographer that came by as we were about to leave. It was actually rather quiet on the trails for such a nice day. Fine by me. After a break, it was back down the AT to Jenkins Gap, with a stop at Compton Spring for water and to chat with another thru-hiker. The climb south out of Jenkins Gap is a favorite. It feels like bear territory, but I don't think I've ever seen a bear through here. Crossing Skyline Drive, the climb up North Marshall continued, meeting the occasional northbounder. A little disappointment at finding closed laurel blossoms on North Marshall, but the views were fine. I scrambled to a couple rock outcrops at the point where the trail makes a switchback, where the ridges to the south open up and disappear into the haze. This is certainly my favorite spot in the north district.
On over South Marshall into Gravel Springs Gap and on to the empty shelter for a snack, water resupply, and a check of the journal. The journal was new but already had a number of entries, with frequent mention of bear sightings and Elkwallow blackberry shakes. As we headed out the Bluff Trail, we met a backpacking family headed towards the shelter. Further along we met other day hikers, and a couple tenting near the Big Devils Stairs junction. Up and down along the Bluff Trail, eventually reaching the Mount Marshall Trail, which would lead 2.2 miles back to the car.
The first 20+ miler of the year. Also the first deer tick of the year. The upcoming weekend should have nice laurel blooms at the higher elevations. That's where you'll find me.

Pictures

SNP central: Hazel Country mountain laurel paradise

It's mountain laurel time in Shenandoah National Park! The abundant spring rains would make for a stellar display, at least that was the hope, and we were not disappointed. This hike route was designed to pass through several known abundant laurel spots in Hazel Country in the central district east side. We'd have two cars, so could cover a lot of trail. Steve and Dan would be coming from Maryland, my brother John and I coming from Virginia's Northern Neck. I awoke Saturday with a cold, but unless a fever came on, I was determined to do the Sunday hike. With the heat and car shuttle, a predawn departure was called for, meeting at the Buck Hollow trailhead on US-211 at 7:30am, then heading to the Old Rag lot in Nethers to start the hike.
The Old Rag lot was busy and filling up fast when we arrived at 8am. It must have been a (yet another) crazy day up on Old Rag. We'd be one of the few to not be there for Old Rag though. While our cars were only six miles apart, the windy hike route through Hazel Country would span 16 miles. Sixteen miles without ever touching the AT, and only a short retrace of steps to a side destination. This hike used thirteen trail segments, three being the Hazel Mountain Trail, not all in the same direction. From the Old Rag lot, we hiked up SR-600, crossed the Hughes River on the Nicholson Hollow Trail, climbed Hot-Short Mountain Trail, used Hazel Mountain Trail to get to Catlett Mountain and Catlett Spur trails, Hazel Mountain again to the Hazel River Trail, back to Hazel Mountain via White Rocks Trail, exiting via Buck Ridge and the tail end of Buck Hollow. I had a map, but didn't need it.
It was evident right off the bat that we'd hit mountain laurel at peak in the lower levels. Brilliant white and pinkish blossoms abound. It was a mountain laurel paradise! As the climb up Hot-Short progressed, there was an increasing number of closed blossoms, but they too are a pleasant sight to see. Expecting this, I kept the route low, which also kept the route very warm and humid. The "hot" in Hot-Short was. Humid too, as in saturated humid, as in sweat running down the leg and soaking the sock inside the boot humid, as in drink a gallon of water and never stop to... well, yep, humid it was. The east side always is.
Hazel Mountain Trail was used as a connector several times. After the sweat-fest climb up Hot-Short, it was a relatively flat walk to Catlett Mountain Trail. The PATC guide book calls this a "fairly level" trail, even though it's got on really steep stretch. The destination was the Hazel River Trail... so what are we doing here?!?... adding miles, that's all. Catlett Mountain, Catlett Spur, and Hazel Mountain (walking towards where we were earlier), all with mostly unopened laurel blossoms, got us over to the Hazel River Trail.
We'd seen few hikers up to this point, other than the hoards that were heading up Old Rag, but on descending Hazel River we met a number of tired looking backpackers heading up. When asked "are we near the top?", and being nowhere near it, you kind of hate having to say "no". Hazel River Trail was a bit overgrown, but not overly, and the nettles were mostly at bay. Turning left at the White Rocks Trail junction, we were soon at the Hazel River crossing. John took advice from a couple hikers we had just met and traversed a downed tree, Steve and Dan rock-hopped, and I de-booted and crossed sock-footed. We'd take a long break here before the steep climb to the White Rocks ridge line. The tall dead hemlock by the river is now down, and made for good sitting. I used the Steri-Pen a couple times, having to replace the batteries first. Always carry spare batteries!
The trail to ridge line takes no prisoners- up, up, up. A slight S-curve to it, otherwise a straight shot. The climb is not done once on ridge line though, as the trail climbs and descends a series of knobs. At the first knob, rocks on the north side provide fine views, but it's the rocks a couple knobs further along that provide the best views and scrambling opportunity. It's easy to pass right by these, so be looking for them on the south side of the trail. The mountain laurel through here was in full display, and though hot in the sun, it was fun playing on the rocks.
Shortly past the rocks comes the steep stepped side trail to a small waterfall and tiny cave. Nearly 200' down, it's well worth it- cool and refreshing. It felt over ten degrees cooler by the waterfall, and at the back of the cave, a refreshingly cool moist breeze could be felt sifting through damp cracks. Of course, what goes down must go up, and again we were back on White Rocks Trail in the heat and humidity. The slope of the climb lessens, and we made good time to the Hazel Mountain Trail junction.
Our third time on Hazel Mountain Trail, it was a steady climb to our exit route, Buck Hollow via Buck Ridge. I knew the mountain laurel on Buck Ridge would be in bloom, the rest was a bonus. Buck Ridge did not disappoint, as it was the mountain laurel paradise. This was all downhill, not something my knee cares for, but it was nice to not be battling the heat and humidity. Amidst the laurel, there were brief hazy views of Marys Rock and Oventop. I was careful with the knee on the very steep stepped descent off Buck Ridge, the marvelous work PATC did installing those logs never ceases to amaze me. Before those logs, descending Buck Ridge was never a consideration.
We arrived at the Thornton River crossing on Buck Hollow to find that the PATC stepping boulders had been dislodged by the recent heavy rains and flooding. The mountain streams and rivers must have been something to see during that period. From the looks of it, the boulders were undermined by the current, shifting them somewhat. Steve trusted one wet tilted boulder enough to go for it, and made it across. Dan jumped (not hopped, jumped) across successfully via a dry boulder (he can do that, his knees work). Since the hike was essentially over, I kept the boots on and waded through the refreshing current, water coming to a few inches above the knee (about two feet deep). John put on neoprene booties and waded as well. A family had gathered, intending to venture up the trail a bit, but the difficult crossing turned them away (certainly after watching us cross). The boulders aren't too far out of place, and I greatly appreciate and know the effort PATC undertook placing them there. Hopefully it won't be too difficult a job to reposition them.
Hiking with a cold is not a lot of fun, especially in the heat. A wise one would probably have just stayed home, but miss the first big mountain laurel display of the season?... no way! No bears, no deer, just a squirrel or two and assorted insects (including ticks, but so far no deer tick). One has to wonder though, amidst all those blossoms, where are the bees?

Pictures

SNP south: Doomsday Hike

Yes, the world was to end on Saturday (the whole Rapture and "End Of Days" thing, you know), so what better place to be than in Shenandoah National Park? It's been slow getting up to speed this year- if not the weather then bad knees. "Osseous stress reaction" is the MRI diagnosis for what was my good knee, high grade chondromalacia patella, good old arthritis, which comes as no surprise. I don't use it, it hurts; I use it, it feels better but just damages it more. A downward spiral indeed. Doomsday, bah!
An early start is needed for a south district hike, coming from the Maryland 'burbs. Since when is 6am early? Heck, the sun was already up when fellow hiker Steve came by to get me. My brother John would be coming from the Virginia Northern Neck. The hike route was about as simple as it gets... Appalachian Trail from Swift Run Gap south to Loft Mountain, then down Frazier Discovery Trail to Loft Mountain Wayside. A favorite segment of the AT, thru-hiker encounters, and a blackberry shake to end the hike, how nice is that?! What could be better... a bear sighting, perhaps?
After a long shuttle behind a slow Park vehicle, we were on the trail at 9:30am. First up was the moderate climb out of Swift Run Gap followed by the longer haul up Hightop. I was hauling something extra, a bag of candy for the thru-hikers. "Snickers Peanut Butter Squared" is my trail magic of choice, and it didn't take long to find a thru-hiker, "Calculator", dropping down to Swift Run Gap. The thru-hikers we met had left Springer in early to mid March, had a rough time in the Smokies, and were drying out from a week of rain.
Spring has finally made it to the higher points. Things were just starting to green up on Robertson two weeks ago, but now the high points are greening up fast. Lush green everywhere, a delight to see after what seemed a long cold winter. Wildflowers abound. Flower-lined trail much of the way, little white flowers that defy camera focus, and ample violets. Mountain laurel about to bloom, surely somewhere along our route we'd find an open blossom. The view atop Hightop was occupied upon arrival, but waited them out, and the spot opened as Steve and John arrived. Great views from here- Beldor Ridge, Rocky Mount, even Trayfoot and Massanutten in the distance. A short break followed at Hightop Hut, where there were three thru-hikers about to press on. I gave each candy.
For the next seven miles it's gap-to-gap hiking- Smith Roach, Powell, Simmons, and Pinefield. There's a great view down Bacon Hollow on the climb out of Powell Gap. At the top of the climb on an arm of Flattop, new-agey wind music was coming from nearby to the south. The AT is along the Park boundary here, with houses just a couple hundred feet from the trail. It's not remote, but sure feels it.
The next stop was Pinefield Hut, where a tired looking thru-hiker was getting water. He perked up at the offer of candy (I gave him two). I had been hiking out ahead, so had plenty of time to get acquainted with the hoards of black flies. I think they're getting worse each year. The mountain laurel looked oh so close to blooming on the climb out of Pinefield Gap. If there was any to be found, it was between here and Ivy Creek. I met another thru-hiker at Ivy Creek Overlook and dispensed more candy. I don't think any of the thru-hikers I met knew about the famous Shenandoah wayside blackberry shakes. I did my part to inform them. Seems these May thru-hikers are more concerned about putting on the miles, while the June thru-hikers are more relaxed.
Next up, my favorite spot on the AT in Shenandoah, the small piney vista above Rockytop Overlook. Not far from Skyline Drive at all (in fact the Drive is in view), but the views west are supreme- Rocky and Brown Mountains, Rockytop, Patterson Ridge, Great North Mountain (when the visibility allows), all in a cozy pine setting. I refer to it as "my spot".
Finally, just beyond, mountain laurel in bloom! One lone bloom. We photographed the heck out of it. A short time earlier we had been told of a bear down the trail. That almost always means no bear for us to see, as it's long gone. Plus, Steve is convinced he's bear repellent, and in a prolonged bear drought. Well, lo and behold!... there just off trail was a good-sized bear! It wasn't running away, and then I quickly determined why- it was a mother bear with at least two cubs, one of which was in a tree. While most will make noise in this situation, I (we) approached rather stealthily, until that is, Steve took a tumble while fetching his camera. That got momma bears attention, and she ambled further off trail over a ridge top. Still, all got a decent view, and Steve's bear drought has finally ended.
With all the recent rain, Ivy Creek was as pretty as I've seen, and I got a nice long exposure shot. Beyond Ivy Creek came the long climb of Loft Mountain, our final climb of the day. Steve was running low on fuel and the day was getting long. Would we reach Loft Mountain Wayside in time to get a blackberry shake? A lone hiker passed us (that's rare) but I kept up with him a bit. We were all trying to figure out what the white flowers that lined the trail were called. I didn't get the hikers name, but he was quite knowledgeable of the Park's trails. I was passed earlier in the hike by a trail runner. Over the course of the hike we encountered three trail runners. That's pretty unusual.
The views from the open rocks on Loft Mountain at the AT junction with the Frazier Discovery Trail are among the best the Park has to offer, with Hightop off in the distance to the northeast (we were there?) to the numerous south district peaks to the west. So close to a big campground, and we were the only ones here. A family with two young kids eventually showed up. It surprises me to find this fine place empty more often than not. Sure, it takes a bit of exertion to complete the Frazier circuit, but the views at the top are certainly worth it (not to mention the massive overhanging rock on the north side of the loop).
We arrived at Loft Mountain Wayside shortly after 5:30pm. They close at 6pm, but prior experience tells me the grill shuts down before closing time. We had made it on time! A blackberry shake outdoors as the crowds thinned. A fine ending to the Doomsday Hike.

Pictures

SNP central: A Walk in the Clouds

Where's spring? It's been eluding me on Saturday outings. There's the problem... avoid Saturday! Sometimes you just can't help it and there you are. As it was this past Saturday with fellow hikers Steve and Dan. Anticipating a government shutdown, this hike would be from the boundary (aren't they all?). Close the Drive, I say, and be free of "car people". Nothing better than a quiet Park. Alas, no shutdown, but who'd come out on such a dreary day. Quite a few it seemed.
Not much activity at the Whiteoak lot in Berry Hollow around 8:45am (I'm getting lazy for sure). 43 degrees under a gloomy overcast. The ragged clouds hugging the hills on the ride over reminded me a bit of the Smokies. Maybe we'll hike above the clouds on Hawksbill! Getting there would be via the direct approach, up Cedar Run to Hawksbill summit. Sure, there are signs of spring at the lowest levels- green and red buds that are just waiting for a reason to open, and a few bedraggled trillium. The two crossings of Cedar Run were reasonable. We ascended into the clouds near the upper crossing. These are perfect conditions for those long exposure shots I love to capture. Ample water, diffuse light, quite the perfect scene.
Dan noticed a remote sensor just off trail above the Cedar Run slide and pool. Looks new, probably measuring temperature. I guess the Park Service is doing some sort of study (any way to tap into that data network?). We met several groups of hikers coming down from the Drive. Some we'd see much later in the hike. We regrouped at cold and damp Hawksbill Gap in the dense eerie fog. Steve appeared as a shadow through the woods. We could wait and do Hawksbill later in the hike, with hopes of clearing, or now. It was somewhat brighter, so the hopes of climbing above the clouds said do Hawksbill now. We did. We remained in the clouds, though the sun's disk was briefly visible. Who'd be here on such a day? The summit platform was actually crowded, something I don't often see even in the best conditions. Many here were with the Northern Virginia Hiking Club.
Descending to Upper Hawskbill, we took the Skyland-Big Meadows Horse Trail to Fishers Gap. This stretch of trail is quite rocky in places, and has long been a "least favorite" of mine. This was Dan's first time on this segment, and his sentiment was pretty much in line. Winter hasn't been kind to this trail, as there are a number of blowdowns. In the fog (and otherwise), the trail has quite the remote feel about it. I didn't mind being here and one never finds others here. Once joined into the Rose River Loop Trail, the footing is as good as it gets, all the way to Fishers Gap.
At Fishers Gap, the fog was about as thick as any I've hiked in. You needed to know your trails to figure out where to go next. A trail junction marker could be less than 100 feet away and you'd never know it. A few cars appeared and disappeared. Needing no map or sense of direction, we picked up the AT and headed north, soon passing the blank rock outcrops along Franklin Cliffs. Pausing at the junction to Rock Spring Hut, a couple backpackers caught up. These were Itznot and J-Cracker, early season thru-hikers. They left Springer on February 5th. The Smokies hadn't been difficult, the snowy trail had been well trodden. The highlands north of there had been rather difficult. I mentioned Ewok, the thru-hiker we met in Georgia on his first day on the trail (as a northbounder) last May and later hiked with (as a southbounder) into SNP in early November. They remembered him well, and mentioned that he should be just about done. "Ewok finished last week" I told them. In Ewok's blog, these were the two NOBO thru-hikers that he'd played poker with at Chestnut Knob Shelter near Burke's Garden. Not expecting any thru-hikers this early, I had little trail magic to offer. I gave each some candy (Butterfinger Squares are a big hit).
We left the AT at Hawksbill Gap, descending the horse trail to Whiteoak Canyon, where we met some of the hikers from earlier. They'd gotten a bit lost in the thick fog, and were happy to hear they were headed towards Hawksbill Gap. We got to the upper falls in the clouds. Oh boy... descending Whiteoak Canyon on wet rocks! Add to that a knee going bad, and it was a grueling descent. Out of the clouds for the lower falls, we stopped briefly to admire, knowing the rough part of the descent was done.
I'm ready for warmth and greenery. Please!

Pictures